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Boost Solenoid & Fuel Q...



no one knows. you have to find it. use carb spray. you have one somewhere.

bluegtp91 said:
Sorry to hijack Kyle...but Nick...on the BBV thingy mod...you can just take it out of the PCM and unplug it? thats it?
Click to expand...

yep. then it cant dump boost when it usually would though. it was just easier for me to leave it disconnected since i was doing a top swap. i probably wouldnt do it if i had a functional setup.
 
When I did my top swap I didn't even get one. I figured "I'm going to disable it anyway so f**k it." I used that spot on the vacuum line to feed my boost gauge sender.
 
Alright. Just red did all the bolts on the s/c retorqued them, then took of the tb, cleaned and retorqued. I am now reading 0/-2ish VAC during idle and no changes when it is reved up.
 
Yeah after doing all the above I am getting "2" (between 0-5 marks on gauge so just guessing) on the VAC side of the gauge, took it for a spin around the block and it isn't budging dispite the DIC actually showing 2 bars of boost durring acceleration to 55mph (the roads speed limit)
 


I hooked my boost gauge to a t-vacuum line that connects right under the supercharger. you'll see a small line with a t-fitting going to a nipple almost directly under the snout.
i dont know if this is a bad location for this, but i read -22 in/hg idle / 10psi wot.

if you need a pic i can snap one, but its really easy to find out exactly what im talking
about if you look directly under the snout.
 
my engine is upside down said:
I hooked my boost gauge to a t-vacuum line that connects right under the supercharger. you'll see a small line with a t-fitting going to a nipple almost directly under the snout.
i dont know if this is a bad location for this, but i read -22 in/hg idle / 10psi wot.

if you need a pic i can snap one, but its really easy to find out exactly what im talking
about if you look directly under the snout.
Click to expand...

That's on the same line as he tapped into so it will see the same pressure.

Man, I think your gauge is messed up if you're only getting -2 in/HG now. That's a vac leak about the size of a half open throttle body. :th_shakinghead1:

Either that or for some reason your BBV is closed at idle.
 
I unplugged the gauge and checked the hose for cracks and plugged it back in. My motor instantly reves up to about 3k holds then slowly comes back down (if maf is plugged in if not is stays a 3k... I sit in the car and give it a rev and nothing no movement boost gauge or dic.

Wich brings me to... what should the DIC by showing during idle or a rev up to about 2k rpms?

This car is haunted.
 
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Ok where other than the Vacume lines, Supercharger, TB and LIM could there even be a possibility of a Vac. leak? I got 1 full can of carb cleaner soaking everywhere and no changed in idle.

If I am not mistaken the Either in the Carb Cleaner should be suked in and nearly kill the motor correct? During this she is staying up 2-3k rpms. Dangerously.
 


nah, it just combusts in the chambers like gas would. wont harm anything.

i dont know man. you got a scanner? can you upload a scan to show us a bunch of parameters? with your vacuum reading being so low it sounds like you have a BIG leak, but if you sprayed all over and got nothing then im not sure what to tell ya. we need a scan.
 
Well had a friend look at it and we found the genral area of the leak... it is the SSIC core. Its either warped or something. We couldn't pinpoint it exactly. But we did notice the STFT would drop to zero with some carb cleaner... but, we couldn't get it to happen in the same place twice. We narrowed it down to the front passener side of the SSIC.

The thing that puzzles me is that yesterday... I took the whole topend off and cleaned/ resealed and RTV'd the core like a mad man. I even was showing boost... Also for some reason my throttle position sensor wasn't reading but, we got it working.

Only my way home I got a buck during acceleration and now my SES light is blinking (when car is on, stays blinking) this I assume is from a misfire. However spark plugs, wires, coils are all new. Could the Vac. leak be causing the motor to run lean enough it is misfiring and sending unburnt fuel to the catylic converter?

Also Reptile pointed out a distinctive hissing noise which he though was the gasket between S/C to SSIC or SSIC to Lim flapping around where the leak is and mentioned something about going double gasket wondering if that would help or solve my problem...?

Also I am wondering if it is normal for a cold start to not go smoothly. I mean I have to start the car and get her warmed up befor I can drive her or she will idle low and then die. After she is warm everything is fine. Is that just something I will have to get use to or can it be tuned out... or is it because the vac. leak?

Input appreciated. Thanks all for enduring and helping me. I hope to have this streak of crappy luck over with by Wednesday... :th_sick2:
 
Take the core out and take it to a machine shop. Have them check it for flatness and mill as necessary. That's how QwikGT lost an engine is a vac leak on his SS core.
 
Well had a local shop in liberty check everything. everything is good, there are a few scratches he noted but, that area is sealing excelently. I don't know. I will be redoing it tommorow for the last time. Grey RTV EVERYWHERE and alot of it. Full cure and I hope...

IDK maybe the RTV last time didn't fully cure before I fired her up or something.

-Wish me luck.

-KT
 


hey I just did this, and it seems to be doing alot of good, but my question is do I need to disable it in my PCM or does it not matter.
 
not yet. but im already doing stuff w/ my friend's hptuners software so I thought i might go ahead and remove it in the pcm if it makes a difference other than the code. also whats the best thing to use for capping off the vac line?
 
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