• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

bolts on fbody brake upgrade



So, im back home. and disappointed nobody here could do re-tap for me. I will be using sleeves.
 
Last edited:
Ridin ON Chrome said:
why the hell not

I have been running them for over 4 years never had any problems.
Dont be spitting that bull ****

Yes tapping them is the proper way, but the sleeves work fine.
Click to expand...

Have you looked at your car.....why would you not do it properly lol

The only reason anyones bracket bolts losened after a couplebrakes is because they never tightened them properly t begin with.

I order drilled and slotted rotors, just got my brackets back from the machine shop so ill be doing my brakes next weekend
 


Don't mean to thread jack but what do we typically do to firm up the pedal after the fbody swap. I've heard it feels kinda spongey. Different master cylinder? Bigger brake lines?
 
Buy C5 or LS2 C6 calipers instead.

Bigger wont solve your problem.

You'll want a 00-05 impala brake booster and stainless lines.

Though there were reports here and there of stainless lines breaking. Unsure how that ended.
 
Matt...is that only on Canadian metal? I jumped on the wagon for drilled slotted just because I could try them out. Crappy rotors will crack, Baer and R1 Concepts (should be Centric blanks) havent' thought about cracking or anything. I'm constantly showing people how great they stop.

Bumping a 5 month old thread FTW! :th_thumb-down:
 
centric premiums are cheaper and perform just as well.

Unless the veins are curved there is no point in opting for those rotors.

Its more in the pad/rotorsize/caliper/suspension that determines your braking performance.

Even moreso is your tire choice.
 


I understand all that. Moreso addressing your general statement about drilled cracking. They don't all crack, they aren't all crap and I've had cracks in solid face rotors plenty of times.

The reality is.. crappy rotors are crappy.
 
China made rotors are more prone to failure more than anything else.

But I will testify to the death that Drilled rotors are not the way to go.
 
no one needs drilled and slotted rotors on the street. if you do, because youre fading them all the time, youre driving like an asshole and need to knock it off.
 


No need to.. honestly take it from a guy that has them. It doesn't impress you much after a couple of weeks. Save that dinero, but... if I may suggest the R1's. They start off as centric blanks then they coat them.

I've had them on my all season DD for a year. Not a bit of rust in the fins or on them at all. I am impressed.
 
Possibly. I've heard R1 coats them. Maybe it's a second coating, maybe it's the first coating on the Centric. Honesly ...I dunno enough about it. I gave something a try and am here to report that all drilled rotors don't crack and R1 eline rotors haven't rusted on me, in a horrible winter of driving.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top