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blown head gasket

runn141

runn141

New member
today i was driving on to the freeway at wide open throttle, when the head gasket blown at 4700 rpm in 2nd gear(this has an automatic). so i pull into a parking lot to call someone to tow it home. it is still running with a very bad miss, i could smell antifreeze burning real bad but the temperature never rose. so i turned it off and called for help, when help got there i tried to start it to show them what happened. it cranked over about 2 seconds and quit like it locked up. i got it home and checked the oil and there is antifreeze in it.
now my ? is do you think it is locked up? would the antifreeze do this? the reason im asking is i dont want to do anymore work on this car than i have to. i dont want to put gaskets on it and it locked up therefor i done this for nothing. i just put $26 worth of gas in it before this happened.
 


Bio248 said:
its possible you hydrolocked it and yes, coolant would do that.
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i hydrolocked a smallblock chevy once and it destroyed the cylinder walls. if this is what happened(hydrolocked)and i pull the plugs and it cranks over could it be fixed?
 
i was just told by someone that has experienced this that 9 chances out of 10it is destroyed(cylinder wall busted or bent rod). say i change the motor how do you all go about this? i hardley work on fwd's,can you simply pull the motor out or do you drop it out from underneathwith the K frame? i dont have a car lift either. if i can pull it out top would it be easier with the transmission on or off?
 


pull it out from the top without the tranny attached. youll have to disconnect it from the flex plate and from the bell housing. disconnect all the lines and wires and then pull it out. it is actually pretty easy, but there is one stupid bolt, AKA the ***** bolt, that faces into the transmission underneath the rear head. easiest way to get at it is with a bunch of extensions and a ratchet through the passenger side wheel well. there is also a bracket that attaches the transmission to the motor on the lower passenger side.
 
Bio248 said:
pull it out from the top without the tranny attached. youll have to disconnect it from the flex plate and from the bell housing. disconnect all the lines and wires and then pull it out. it is actually pretty easy, but there is one stupid bolt, AKA the ***** bolt, that faces into the transmission underneath the rear head. easiest way to get at it is with a bunch of extensions and a ratchet through the passenger side wheel well. there is also a bracket that attaches the transmission to the motor on the lower passenger side.
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how bad are the transmission lines to get to? i cant even see the power steering pump let alone check the fluid(before all this happened).
 
take the power steering pump off too and you wont have to mess with those lines either. that is what i did.
 
Yeah. Two bolts which you can access through the pulley once you have the belt off and can turn it. You'd also want to take off the A/C compressor so you don't have to discharge and recharge your system.
 


I've had almost the same thing happen 2 me 2 years ago. I mashed the gas and the car started missing and died. Then I tried starting it and it locked up.
Had the car towed home and I started pulling the motor which I thought was ****ed but turned out to be ok. I replaced the rod and main bearings which showed signs of being water logged. I pulled the heads and got them milled .005, did a port job on them and installed ARP head studs. I've been driving the car ever since. I guess I was 1 of those lucky guys.
 
since im gonna be looking for another motor, will a series3 hook up to everything the same or a series1. is there any benefit or disadvantage of using either one?
 
seriesIII will work fine, seriesI will not. youll need a TB adapter to go back to the seriesII because of the drive by wire throttle that is on the seriesIII.
 
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