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Blowing oil smoke and gas on passenger side above header. Please help disgnose.

Wakingcrow said:
Anyone used this type of scanner? There's not much info I can garner.
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Not looking to be a jerk, merely point out something. You don't mention a brand, don't post a picture... should we be guessing what kind of scanner you are asking about? Because we aren't telepathic, we need you to explain stuff, be the eyes and ears. If you smell fuel, you need to tell us where you looked, what you see or don't see. From there we are much more able to help. We can't get under/over it and inspect the fuel lines to ensure they are totally dry or soaked. We aren't there with our hands on it, that's your job and....you job is also to describe what you see/don't see etc in a way that we can understand in order to help you.

I'm hoping that helps, because so far I haven't commented as I haven't been able tounderstand anything in the thread besides you are fairly hard up on cash and trying like heck to fix up your car.
 


Here's what we've learned. I got the OBD port working by magic somehow, because none of the fuses were bad but I swapped some relays around, and everything still works including now the OBD port. OK well. Scanner said misfire (yeah no ****) and upstream O2 sensor low voltage. I worked about 4 hours trying to remove it, including using an O2 sensor special cut 7/8 socket from a neighbor mechanic. It would not come out at all and instead rounded at the nut. It will never come out, but in the meantime the wires were all cut. I plugged in another sensor and put foil around it, but it's still sputtering and RPM oscillating from as much as 1k as the engine freaks out from no accurate O2 sensor. I read about dummy O2 sensors that I could order, but wondering if there's anything I could do to simulate that in the meantime.
Bill I did post pictures and a video as requested so that someone might help short of me paying $thousands which I don't have at all.
 
Post the exact codes it spit out on the scanner. There are a lot of different misfire codes.

Try soaking the O2 sensor with PB Blaster or some other good penetrating oil where it meets the manifold. A torch also comes in handy on this as you can heat the manifold bung around the O2 and while it's warm try backing it out. May have to loosen/tighten a few times to get it to move. I've used a pipe wrench to back out a stubborn sensor that rounded off.

You have to get that sensor installed or it's never going to run right.
 
FordMan77 said:
Post the exact codes it spit out on the scanner. There are a lot of different misfire codes.

Try soaking the O2 sensor with PB Blaster or some other good penetrating oil where it meets the manifold. A torch also comes in handy on this as you can heat the manifold bung around the O2 and while it's warm try backing it out. May have to loosen/tighten a few times to get it to move. I've used a pipe wrench to back out a stubborn sensor that rounded off.

You have to get that sensor installed or it's never going to run right.
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everything he said. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
FordMan77 said:
Post the exact codes it spit out on the scanner. There are a lot of different misfire codes.

Try soaking the O2 sensor with PB Blaster or some other good penetrating oil where it meets the manifold. A torch also comes in handy on this as you can heat the manifold bung around the O2 and while it's warm try backing it out. May have to loosen/tighten a few times to get it to move. I've used a pipe wrench to back out a stubborn sensor that rounded off.

You have to get that sensor installed or it's never going to run right.
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I tried pretty much all of that and it's not coming out. The nut is stripped now so it's not going to be possible even if I take off the header again. What I need is to just hook up an o2 sensor simulator or dummy that actually works, to the wiring harness, if anyone has any recommendations. I should have a few bucks to buy or construct one tomorrow. Thanks.
BTW P0301 cylinder misfire and I think P480 was the O2 sensor.
 
if this is the up stream o2 there is no faking it out, you need one that works installed. and yes theres room to do what fordman said.

sometimes they come out easier if the engine is fully up to temp. hot parts come apart easier.
 


A pipe wrench should get a bite on it even it the edge is stripped. I just went through this on my boss' 98 F150. Ended up putting the wrench on it along with a length of pipe for leverage and it popped right out. Didn't even gall the threads. And this was a stock O2 with 229K on it.

You may want to remove the spark plugs and wires back there just so you don't risk breaking one off since 4 and 6 are near the O2 sensor. If you get the wrench in the right spot you should be able to lay over the top of the motor and give it a solid pull even w/o a pipe extension on it.

Barring that, the only other idea is to remove the entire rear manifold and either get the old sensor out, or replace the mani and O2 sensor as a whole, which you don't have the $$ for. You could possibly score one at a junkyard. The only issue there is that if one of the rear manifold bolts break off then you're in for more repairs and downtime.

And that P0301 is a cylinder 1 misfire, which is on the front of the engine farthest to the left if you are standing in front of car (closest to the battery). I'd check the wire going to it and make sure it's good. And also make sure the the coil side is clean and tight.

P0480 is for the cooling fan circuit, not an O2. May want to double check that one.
 
Since it's stripped I would pull the manifold out and as mentioned use a pipe wrench. In the past when I've had an o2 that didn't want to come out, I'd run the car.. easiest torch free way to heat that manifold.

Also on the P0301 you can also switch the wires at the coil pack from 1 and 4, if the misfire moves to 4 you may have a coil issue. Swap the coil positions for 2/5 and 1/4 and see if the issue moves to either 2/5. If so you need a new coil. If it never moves off of 1, then the issue should be the plug or wire.

On the fan circuit issue, if that was an issue before you moved relays around then I'd check the connector at the fans. If it didn't exist before hand, check that when you moved the relays that you didn't end up putting a 4 pin relay into a 5 pin connector for the fans.
 
I replaced the wires on sparks 1 and 3 and the misfire codes disappeared, then a bunch more codes and problems appeared.
Unfortunately there's no way to get a wrench on the O2S without taking the header off and probably won't do that without getting another one at the junkyard because I still doubt I will get the damn thing out. I don't see why I can't just run it open loop without the sensor for a while. It may not be highly efficient but shouldn't be running as ****tily as it does right now.
 
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