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Blower motor resistor, Coolant leak?

Jomamma

Jomamma

pssssshhhhhhtt
Yesterday I discovered a coolant leak coming from the cast coolant elbow. I plan on replacing the O-ring next week, after my trip.

This morning I believe my blower motor resistor shorted out leaving me with only the 5th fan speed setting. I also noticed my car occasionaly "dinging" for no apparent reason on my way to class.

Last week my remote start stopped remote starting. It cranks once and stops.

Why does everything break at once?

Could there be any correlation between these problems? Any suggestions? Ideas?
 


I dont know if this helps but I lost blower speed settings 1-4 all at once. Unlike my other GP which slowly lost 1&2 then 3&4 later on.
 
OK, what are you looking for from us? Confrimation that you should do the o-ring and resistor? Your symptoms sure fit the need for both.

Give them a try and call us in the morning.
 
No I know I need to do the O ring.

Its just the remote start not working, and the dinging making me think its something other that the blower motor resistor.

Maybe ignition switch?
 


Maybe.

And yet.. you don't bother to tell us which factory remote starter you didn't get in 1997. C'mon man.. we can help you, but we aren't going to do the work for you or pull your teeth. You need to help a little more than "Please..please help me"
 
I have a viper one way remote start.
I was just looking for some suggestions, to see if there was a common issue between these issues.


Ill probably just replace the o ring, then replace the blower motor resistor, then go back to best buy cuz I just had it installed by them a month ago.

Hopefully I'll get around to that next week.
 
ok so i can help with the remote start.. at night go behind the car an try to use the remote start and see if your brake lights kick on (high Beam) it kicks off because it thinks someone is hitting the brake to shift gears with out the key and the thing that messes up is one on the light bulbs mess up or when people replace tail lights with leds it does something to the brain (the viper) usually needing a relay installed...
 
mofford12 said:
ok so i can help with the remote start.. at night go behind the car an try to use the remote start and see if your brake lights kick on (high Beam) it kicks off because it thinks someone is hitting the brake to shift gears with out the key and the thing that messes up is one on the light bulbs mess up or when people replace tail lights with leds it does something to the brain (the viper) usually needing a relay installed...
Click to expand...
I doubt that's the problem, I don't think my third break or any of my break lights are on when this is happening.


Also I don't see why LEDs would cause it not to work
 
Why ask for help and when people give you valid suggestions, you shoot them down and don't bother at least looking?

My Viper 7901 doesn't have any way to know which bulbs are in the tails. Typically they are hooked to the stop switch on teh brake pedal.
 


BillBoost37 said:
Why ask for help and when people give you valid suggestions, you shoot them down and don't bother at least looking?
Click to expand...

I don't understand why you keep getting on me... Sorry if I came off as rude or something at first, I was just a bit restless in class.

I did try it. Brake lights don't even come on, only the tail lights.
 
Guy gave you a suggestion and it sounded like you were shooting it down w/o trying it. Lots of guys get on here, beg for help and then say "no, not that" Sorry if I came off that way.
 
it was only a possibility and figured id shoot it out there because ive seen cars comeback to the shop and it be something as simple as the brake lights.. might sound stupid but its those things that sound stupid you never check....
 
Alright,
Yesterday I replaced the o-ring and the other coolant elbow with an aluminum one. Pretty sure that fixed the leak, I'll drive it for a few days and we'll see.

Went to auto start my car after just for the hell of it and it worked. Weird right? I don't understand how that was the auto start problem too. Maybe disconnecting the battery did it? Even though I've done that previously to try and solve the problem.
 
Well I'm assuming the lower cast iron in pipe didn't seal properly and it still has a minor leak.

Is the lower cast iron in pipe supposed to have a small gap between the recessed part of the pipe and the timing cover? I have a 1/4" to a 1/2" space there. Should it be flush? I suppose I can take a picture if this doesn't explain it well enough.
 


The space is normal.

Pull the alt and tensioner back off. This time, look closely at the timing cover where the lower elbow goes into it. I'm thinking you cracked the timing cover taking it apart one of the times. Hence why GM got rid of the aluminum elbow as part of the tensioner.
 
BillBoost37 said:
The space is normal.

Pull the alt and tensioner back off. This time, look closely at the timing cover where the lower elbow goes into it. I'm thinking you cracked the timing cover taking it apart one of the times. Hence why GM got rid of the aluminum elbow as part of the tensioner.
Click to expand...

I was afraid of that. Would I be screwed if it is?

Ill hopefully pull it apart again today. Inspect the inlet for cracks, steel wool the hole clean it all up then copper rtv the **** out of it.
 
If it's cracked, RTV isn't going to help. A few cover is your fix. Pretty sure I have a few laying around if you need one.
 
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