• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

blinking Check Engine Light

Well...wait till another one takes a crap. IMO, don't half ass stuff like that...take it from me. Plus, AZ has lifetime warranty wires for like 30 bucks...whats so bad about that?
 


You are right, theres nothing bad about that. Its just that all my other wires/plugs are LIKE NEW. When I decide to get a tune-up i will then do all plugs/wires and other stuff while im at it. Im sure theres nothing bad going to happen. Thanks for your help and concern though.
 
Plugs are only like $15 at most new from a parts store. Better afford that before something big breaks. The rear plugs are more than doable.
 
Changing spark plugs one at a time to cure cylinder misfire condition is the beginning of a never ending saga that no one should EVER have to endure, but still, we do. I am going to try to save someone that grief, even if I can only help one soul.

Here is MY story.

I bought the 2000 GTP in Jan., 2008. No problem with engine light until Feb., 2010.

First time engine code P0303 (Cyl.3 misfire, AutoZone).

Cable terminal on the #3 Ignition pack was corroded. I did the minimum. I cleaned the Cable terminal. Engine light cleared. One week later,

Second time engine code P0303 (Cyl.3 misfire, AutoZone).

Cable terminal on the #3 Ignition pack was, still clean. Plug number #3 melted (and I DO MEAN Melted!) I failed to look at it the first time. Second time, I still did the minimum. I replaced the #3 plug (with a copper plug as ID by AutoZone) and #3 wire. Engine light cleared. Another week passed (can anyone finish this story before I can?).

Third time engine code P0301 (Cyl.1 misfire, AutoZone).

I did what everyone said I should have the first time (almost...).
I changed all the plugs and wires. (Except the one that was blocked by the front O2 sensor (stock exhaust setup, few here may still have). Engine light cleared. Not replacing all plugs the first time, big mistake. I failed to correctly ID the melted plug as "iridium", it was (AND SO WERE THE REMAINING PLUGS). So, I ran 1 new copper and 5 old "iridium" for about two weeks. Then, I made my second huge mistake. I ALMOST replaced ALL my plugs and wires with new copper, leaving the #6 "iridium" because it was the PITA plug behind the O2 sensor, I was quite sure nothing seriously wrong could come of it. I was right, I thought, until 1 month later.

Fourth time engine code P0306 (Cyl.6 misfire, AutoZone).
(This time it also flashes some time).

I think I am going to follow the advice of the guys here and replace ALL the plugs and ALL the wires TOMORROW!

I have already acquired the FREE loaner tool (for the PITA #6 plug).

I have decided on plugs from NGK, IRIDIUM IX, TR55IX, 7164 on a stock setup, for their longevity. No other mods, (quite yet). I have already acquired these.

I have decided on wires from ACCEL, 8MM Super Stock Spiral Wire, HI TEMP, BLUE Jacket, 5040B. I have already acquired these, also.

I have prepped my fuel system using SeaFoam for GAS engines.

And best of all I know I will not regret the “initial” expense because this has already been a PITA, to me. I sincerely hope this helps at least one person out there. I will try to update with details as they become available.
 
whats the weather like ....obviously dry pavement when ur "puting the peddel down"? was guna say misfire caused from wet coil packs? grounding out? but reiterating...plugs, wires, cat
 
supercharged06 said:
whats the weather like ....obviously dry pavement when ur "puting the peddel down"? was guna say misfire caused from wet coil packs? grounding out? but reiterating...plugs, wires, cat
Click to expand...
Supercharged06,

I just came in for a quick glance at the coil pack diagram and a beverage, when I saw your post.

YES! Weather has been rainy, very rainy!
Yep, this is Houston; August is the beginning of the hurricane season.
We have been getting POUNDED with rain.
Do you think the wheel wells might be allowing water in?

FYI:
Have you seen this happen?
I did find a hairline porcelain crack in the #6 plug.
I only have 2, 4 and 6 plugs out.
Could all this be the symptom or extension of the wet coil packs, grounding out?
 


rmcardle3 said:
I'll check it out after looking into the CAT problem.
Click to expand...
Ok, great results.
8mm plug wires, done.
Iridium plugs gapped 53-55, done.
Missfire condition, gone.
Seafoam did cause a "latent" engine code 420.
Delayed code HO2S 2 heated oxygen sensor, catalyst efficientcy~36 hours later.
Disconnected the battery, overnight.
HO2S 2 condition, gone (now going on 48 hours).

Great advice/information from this site! Thanks!
 
matt5112 said:
Whoa, gappping iridium plugs?

And why not just run them at 0.060?
Click to expand...

Blue,

You are the man...which is right?

Here is what NKG said on there web site: Iridium IX TR55IX 7164 .060

(This NKG tutorial video goes on to show exactly "how to gap a iridium plug" and "what tool to do it with")

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk70oyUEftY&feature=player_embedded

The link that follows goes on to say and I quote:

"While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for."

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/installation/index.asp?mode=nml#installing

Please correct me, if I am "out of context" on "Iridium" glugs not being pre-gapped for individual cars but it sounds like the manufacturer has some different wisdom to share, than the mainstream wisdom, here. I think this "issue" shrouds these plugs in mystery and accounts for some (occassionally) radical opinions on their use. I would like to see this issue clarified here, if possible. All opinions welcome. Thanks.

FYI: Product image: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_f...loseup.asp?stocknumber=7164&partnumber=TR55IX
 
Last edited:


thats just it.... they WERE adjusted for the vehicle you were going to put them in.

The second 5 means the plugs are gapped to 0.059 from the factory.
 
I'm confused as to what suggested changing gap to .053-.055" when the car is stock and everything states .060" for stock gap.
 
Did I mention I cleared all my missfire codes? So, your saying the .053-.055 (instead of the .060) spark gap, on a supercharged 3800 is the last thing that should be modified, after the pully down swap and after all other mods?

FYI: I took this thread out of context:
http://www.grandprixforums.net/plug-gapping-21896.html

(I thought gap mods where the old school, easiest mods for higher compression [superchargers] and the higher rpms.) Da*&, it has been running at the top of it's game for the past week.
(all stock, except for the cone filter intake).

Whatever, Ok so you guys are saying I need to widen my gaps back to .060 because other wise missfire might come back, if that sounds right? Ok. Thanks guys.
 


Leave it, for now? Ok.

Yea, compared to the way it ran (accelerated) before "with the misfire", I can use more of the accelerater pedal now. Ok, thanks guys.
 
If you care...and don't mind spending another 10 bucks and another hour of your time...go get some Autolite 606's and gap them all at .055". If you car is stock then go for that. I personally don't care for Iridium plugs for that reason.
 
benner said:
Blinking SES light means a catalyst damaging fault is occurring. You can really screw things up with that. Get it to a dealership or other mechanic and have it fixed.
Click to expand...

Yes, things can get very damaged if you don't fix the problem asap. I had the blinking light happen to me just yesterday. Tuned out a spark plug wire got knocked off. Had I no checked under the hood & looked around serious damage could have occured.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top