• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Blend Door Actuator Replacement

Abrasive

Abrasive

I say it with pictures
Temperature Actuator Replacement LH

LH.gif


Removal Procedure

1.Remove the left instrument panel insulator (this is the carpeted cardboard piece above the brake pedal that connects to the knee bolster)

2.Remove the knee bolster (this is the pad below the steering column)

3.Remove the steering column filler (this is the metal piece behind the knee bolter, under the steering colum) (4 larger bolts, and I think 2 smaller ones)

4.Disconnect the electrical connector from the temperature actuator.

5.Remove the HVAC Con (HVAC Control) MiniFuse #27 from the IP electrical center.

6.Remove the mounting bolts from the temperature actuator.

7.Remove the temperature actuator.


Installation Procedure

1.Position the temperature actuator, then align the slots in the electric actuator driver to the flats on the temperature valve shaft.

2.Slide the electric actuator driver onto the shaft, while aligning the actuator locating hole to the forward alignment pin on the HVAC module case. The actuator driver should completely seat onto the temperature valve shaft and the mounting holes should be flush with the mounting bosses on the HVAC module case.

3.Install the mounting bolts to the temperature actuator.
Tighten the temperature actuator bolts to 1.5 N·m (13 lb in).

4.Connect the electrical connector to the temperature valve electric actuator.

5.Install the knee bolster.

6.Install the left instrument panel insulator.

7.Install the HVAC Con (HVAC Control) MiniFuse #27 from the IP electrical center.


:th_divider:


Temperature Actuator Replacement RH

RH.gif


Removal Procedure

1. Remove the right instrument panel insulator. (The carpeted cardboard piece below the glovebox)

2. Remove the instrument panel compartment. (glovebox)

3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the temperature actuator.

4. Remove the HVAC Con (HVAC Control) MiniFuse #27 from the IP electrical center.

5. Remove the bolts retaining the temperature actuator.

6. Remove the temperature actuator.


Installation Procedure

1. Position the temperature actuator, then align the slots in the electric actuator driver to the flats on the temperature valve shaft.

2. Slide the temperature actuator driver onto the shaft, while aligning the actuator locating holes to the forward alignment pin on the HVAC module case. The actuator driver should completely seat onto the temperature valve shaft and the mounting holes should be flush with the mounting bosses on the HVAC module case.

3. Install the bolts to the temperature actuator. Tighten
Tighten the temperature actuator bolts to 1.5 N·m (13 lb in).

4. Connect the electrical connector to the temperature actuator.

5. Install the instrument panel compartment.

6. Install the right instrument panel insulator.

7. Install the HVAC Con (HVAC Control) MiniFuse #27 from the IP electrical center.
 


Excellent writeup. I just have a question though before I go through this trouble.

My wife's car, 2005 GP v6 (non-s/c), has a heater blowing cold air. We've done two complete radiator flushes. I added the green mixture instead of DexCool the second time around. I've replaced the thermostat and have checked all of the hoses for leaks. The hoses going to and from the heater core are very hot. When flushing the radiator, both times, I flushed out the heater core as well. Once I do a radiator flush, the heater works perfectly. About a month later, the issue comes back.

Do you think this fix my problem?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the information it was a great help. It turns out my drivers side actuator was bad. It's a pain to get to but following your directions helped. Just so everyone knows, I have manual dual control. While the passenger side was fine it only blew luck warm air. It appear the drivers side is dominate. Once it was replaced the heat was like new. Thanks again.:th_winking:
 
Nice write up!!! Just what I was looking for. Seems lots of other people are looking for this too this post will bump it up. :th_laugh-pointup:
 
Could you please post instructions for a single climate control system?

Both Heater core hoses are hot, so I assume this is the problem. When temp is set to hot, flow is low and lukewarm, when I switch temperature setting to cold, flow increases and turns cold. Does this seem like a Blend Door Actuator problem?

Thank you.
 


OK, I found where the actuator was. It is actually on the RH side on my GP.

I took the actuator off, and manually turned the valve all of the way to the warm side, and the air is still luke warm.

I re-checked the heater-core hoses, and one is appreciably hotter than the other. Car must not have been fully warmed up before when I checked. Clogged heater core?
 
i have same issues first some idiot toke out the fuse for the hvac put 1 in started working than a few weeks later started messing up and than i started hearing this werid ticking noise when the a/c was off than found a alil hole in a vac line replaced that it blew faster but still got that same problem
 


Is there a write-up for the actuator or linkage that connects to the defrost/dash/floorboard selector switch? Mine is broke and I've been all around looking for some tips. Home from work today because I couldn't see to drive!

Thanks,

Tom
 
that part works on vacuum, check for a leak under the hood, the small tube that runs up the pass side fender to the fire wall sometimes snaps.

the actuators only work the blend door for hot or cold air.
 
Thanks!

Well, as luck would have it, my problem actually was the knob itself that had broken. But wow, I was looking under the dash as to how to get the front of the dash off, and it looks like (from what I've seen here as well), you have to start at the center console and work your way forward? Man, I'm glad the stock radio was good enough for me!

So. "vice grip" knob hanging off the dash, it's off I go!

Thanks again,

Tom
 
I have a 04 with the basic system. Does this write up apply? I have no heat, but get a clicking noise when I unlock the car, or its been parked for a while. I think a gear is broken in the Hvac actuator or something.
 


I have a 2004 Prix GTP...she does NOT have dual climate control. A year ago in the winter, the blower motor went out and we had no heat. We got that fixed and now the blower works very well but now there's no A/C! Today as I was complaining about it since it was only about 104' outside, my son said that on the passenger side, he had cool air blowing out *it wasn't as cool as it should be* whereas I, on the driver side had lukewarm to warm air blowing out. I was told this was a problem with the actuator, which according to what I'm seeing on here, that's more than likely what it is.
My questions are: 1-Is there only ONE actuator for each side of the car or only ONE for the entire car? 2-Is there anyway to be 100% sure that this is what it truly is? 3-Is this something that can easily be done by me? :th_scratchhead:

The last question is due to wanting to save the money and mainly because I've never really had to take my car in anywhere, my husband was always the one to do it. The first time my car was ever taken in elsewhere was for the blower motor. My husband had cancer and wasn't able to do it himself but he passed away on May 1st, a month shy of turning 46 and now he's no longer here to do things like this for me, so if at all possible, to save money, I would prefer to be able to do whatever I can myself. Thanks for any input. :th_biggrin1:
 
If you have the two manual temp control sliders you have two actuators. My '03 GT is suffering the exact same symptoms as yours, funny how that popped up with the current heat wave.
I haven't dug into it yet, but it doesn't look too hard.

Most likely that's the problem, judging by how many people have had this same complaint, but you won't know 100% until you change it. I've found Rock Auto to be low cost and fast parts delivery for my GT.
Good luck!

UPDATE: Access to the left actuator is somewhat a PITA, OK if you were a car stereo installer in your youth.:cool:
Turns out my actuator is OK, it moves the blend door the full range that the door can move. The door itself feels OK the full range of motion, and sounds like it goes all the way to closing off either heat or cool ports.

I still have a large temp difference from driver to passenger side and poor cooling. With the A/C set to Max, temp sliders set to cold, fan speed set to 3, engine at idle speed, outdoor temp of 88º, I have 92º on the driver center outlet and 74º on passenger center outlet:mad:.
I'll have to check refrigerant pressure for the overall cooling issue, but why the big difference between sides when the blend door operation seems OK? Is there a good online parts breakdown of the heater assembly? Has anyone dug into their heater that far that could share some insight? Are the blend doors prone to breaking off part of the flap?

UPDATE 2: Refrigerant was low, recharged, now the with the same parameters as above I have 38º from drivers center outlet and 40º from the passenger center outlet. Why the drivers side is now cooler than the passenger side is a mystery.:th_scratchhead: I'm just happy it's cold air that's coming out for cheap!:th_thumb-up: Two 12 oz cans did it.

So what seemed to be a blend door problem, wasn't.:th_tongue2:
 
Last edited:
I replaced drivers side actuator, took car to dealership because i was still getting cool air out of drivers side. They said the passenger side needs to be replaced. Any truth to this? Please help!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top