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Big 3 fuse

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c32k05

c32k05

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What size fuse for big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge? also, would 1/0 gauge from lowes work or does it need to be car audio?
 


any 1/0 will work, just car audio wire tends to be more flexible. and for your fuse, a 300amp ANL fuse is what you need
 
auto wire is fine strand, more strands, will give you a better power draw capabilities, but you wouldnt need a 1/0 then, go something like 4 gauge max in dc fine strand.
 
thanks for the help so far. i went to get a 300 amp ANL fuse and the highest they had was 200, I already have 150 amp ANL fuses would one of those work? i have seen some say to fuse for the alternators output.
 
c32k05 said:
thanks for the help so far. i went to get a 300 amp ANL fuse and the highest they had was 200, I already have 150 amp ANL fuses would one of those work? i have seen some say to fuse for the alternators output.
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always fuse to the wire size, if someone tells you otherwise tell them to talk to me. you could use a 200amp fuse, but try an upgrade it to a 300 anl if you can. but do not use those if you are gonna go with 4 guage.
 
well i went with 1/0 gauge wire and just put a 150 anl until i can get a 300 anl (i figure under fuse is better than over so no melting). now it seems as though the alternator has alot louder whine to it. could this be because of the upgrade? also when grounding the chasis to engine does it need to start at the battery to chasis ground or can it start somewhere else ie. firewall, front radiator support (ClubGP Message Forum troubleshooting) something like in the second picture, but battery to chasis in stock location
 


I've seen a thread that has the actual big 3 install done on a grand prix. Does anyone have the link to it?
 
blackbonnie said:
any 1/0 will work, just car audio wire tends to be more flexible. and for your fuse, a 300amp ANL fuse is what you need
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Ummm How bout NO!!!! Unless his total power draw is close to it.
Lets say If the total power draw is 200 amps throwing 300 amp fuse is a fire hazard waiting to happen. There are other things to consider aka the thermal rating of the insulation of the wire itself but for the best way is to fuse to the max current you are pulling.

Again if the max current is 250 then should really use a 275. I have also been told in training and through life long electricians that you can have a 10% margin from the max load.
 
and how would one go about figuring out how many amps they are pulling?
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Figure out the draw of every electric accessory and add them all up?

But seriously......
I don't know too much about wiring but I do know that fuses are used to protect the wires from overheating. Basically if you have more current going through the circuit than the wire can support then an inline fuse rated at just below the wire's capacity will blow before the wire ever has a chance to get hot.

So, theoretically you just need a fuse that is rated at a slightly lower load than the wire is.

You don't want to base your fuse on how much current you're actually drawing through the wire, but you should be choosing a wire that will support the amount of current you are drawing through it.

I hope that makes some sense.

Either way, 1/0 gauge wire will handle a hell of a lot of current (anyone have any specs on it?).
I'm not sure that you'd need that big of a gauge of wire unless you have some crazy electronics going on, but it can't hurt.
If you are running a 150amp fuse and it isn't blowing, and the wire is rated at least 150amps then you should be fine.

-Riggs.
 
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