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Best way to plug banjo bolt?

SaukRapids

SaukRapids

I can't car too good.
I'd like to take the calipers off the CompG and repaint them. The ABS needing a TechII on mine has me worried about letting it just leak out. A couple suggestions so far are to use plastic wrap under the reservoir cap (dunno how much that will do), and vacuum caps might plug the hole in the fitting.

Any ideas? Maybe a regular bolt the same size? (which is?)

Thanks.
 


Don't do that just get the proper size rubber hose fold in one side and slide that side in away from the whole going to the middle of the banjo and the hoes will expand and plug the hole opening that the bolt passes through period vacuum caps might work a vacuum cap for a quarter inch or 5/16 nipple would be about 10 millimeters OD.

Crimping the hose is forcing the liner to try to separate and can result in a collapsed hose lining
 
i must say, theres no way in hell your taking off the calipers and putting them back on with out bleeding the brakes.
 


I tried this. It still leaked a tiny bit. Clamped it off, which I really don't like doing.

20170225_133138.jpg


This calipers cleaned up and sanded. They're both pretty much like this.

20170225_133550.jpg


I did think of the vacuum cap because I saw those at O'rielly. Try that next time.

Oh yeah, the fluid is disgusting looking. They'll be bled, but I was leery about what would happen if the reservoir went dry. I talked to friend that "had a whole can-a-worms with that ABS computer valve thing." Bleeding isn't a very big deal.
 
It might be pertinent to add my buddy drives a Silverado, not a Grand Prix. They're about the same year. So, whether or not I'd have to trailer it back to the dealer for a TechII is/was the main issue.

I'm pretty sure I'm good there, and I have help so I don't have to bleed it alone. Thanks! :th_beer-toast1:
 
i never used a tech 2 to bleed brakes. bleed away.

only thing ive had to do was rehome the motors in my regal, but thats only if you pull the abs pump off the master.
 
Scotty I think the concern was letting fluid drain out of the ABS unit and getting air in there. You can use the Tech II to cycle the ABS to bleed it, or you can also just take it out on a gravel road and cycle it yourself.... I have this same project on my list but I am going to replace the hard lines also, they are rusting.
 


he kinda said he dont want to bleed them cause of the need for a tech two. theres air in both the lines, and the caliper now, they need to be bled one way or another, capped lines or not.

typically ill push or tie the line end so its higher then the master if possible. one way to beat gravity. :D
 
Burbman said:
Scotty I think the concern was letting fluid drain out of the ABS unit and getting air in there. You can use the Tech II to cycle the ABS to bleed it, or you can also just take it out on a gravel road and cycle it yourself.
Click to expand...
It still is a concern. I was in the understanding that as long as I didn't let the reservoir drain out past the master/ABS, I'd be able to bleed at the corners normally. If there's something I need to do in my driveway or empty back road, any direction would be appreciated.

Stainless lines are on the wishlist, and I don't expect the VHT paint to last very long. I'll be back under there for sure.

Thanks again. :)
 
the caliper paint holds up well if you dont get any brake fluid on them, that will take the paint right off for ya.

i use a one man DIY bleeder. makes bleeding a breeze, also makes bleeding brakes solo a possibility for less then a few bucks.

 
heres mine, its got to be 5 years old now, i used a common water bottle, when its full, i grab a new bottle use its cap to seal the full bottle and put the bleeder cap on the new bottle.

darkfluid_zps43ca51e0.jpg
 


im cheap and simplicity is king, and i work alone way to much. brake bleeding has always been a two person job unless you spent money on a real power bleeder tool. buy clear tubing and burn 2 holes in a bottle cap, thats for me!!!! no drilling for mine, used the head of a cigg to burn a hole and pushed the tube in, done quick and easy.

best part is theres no mess at all, unless your bottle falls over lol

another tip is, you want to see the if theres air in the line or not as you bleed them, if your tube is long enough you can shut the door and see the bottle to the back calipers in the mirrors as you bleed, or flush, front pass is a bit harder to see. but you can walk over and see clean fluid in the tube and know your done. i set mine up so the tube arcs upward so if theres a air bubble it will settle in the high part of the tubing. keep working the pedal till thats gone and your set for the best bleeding job ever.

make sure the master dont drain while doing this, you can loose fluid fast if refilling calipers, or flushing the whole system. work the brake pedal slowly too, push it slow and steady to the floor, let it rise on its own. repeat as needed.
 
I was watching "*****in' Rides" the other day, and they painted the calipers on an Audi R8. They were worried about bleeding the brakes on that thing, so they just left the caliper connected. It's not really an option in this case because I'm sure there is some preparation necessary, and all they did was mask everything off they didn't want to paint and then cleaned the calipers real good.
 
the first time i painted them i sanded prepped em good and painted them hung up. after a few years they got tired looking a few chips from the wheels hitting them and such. so i washed them with car wash soap dried, then brushed on a new coat, no masking off of any thing.

pretty sure the paint is still wet in this pic. i literally sprayed the paint on cardboard, and used the brush to mom it off the cardboard.

015_zpss5p7nx25.jpg
 
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