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best speakers for rear deck 07 gp gt

G

gmoney25

New member
I was wondering which would be the best speakers for my 07 gp gt without the monsoon system for the rear deck. I wanted something that sounds good and bumps pretty hard, with a lot of bass. Also, ones that are not too exspensive and easy to install.
 


Well, I put in some Kenwood 4-ways replacing the stock 6x9s. They are better in every way than stock, but I wouldn’t claim they hit hard. IMHO nothing you put in the deck will hit hard without using some kind of a sub. My speakers ran about $110, they sounded better at the store than even the Alpines.
 
Carpepoon said:
Awesome bass? Those are not free-air subs and would sound like crap mounted to the rear deck. Almost any 6x9 will be a vast improvement over the stock speakers. Install will be the same no matter what 6x9 you buy. It all comes down to what you want to spend.
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*cough* Who said anything about an IB installation? First and foremost...why would you invest money into a second stage that plays in the rear of your vehicle? Matt was indirectly stating, get rid of the second stage and add some bass.

I think the words "custom installation" instigate the idea of an enclosure. Personally, I can't stand 6x9's. I'm not really a fan of investing in 6x9's before any other work is done to the audio system either. Simply put..."bump" is proportionate to a musicians choice of frequencies used and the coinciding system that music is played on.

Matt had it right...if you want more "bump" then you want a better install and system design.
 


matt5112 said:
IB can't be done in a car.

If you think otherwise, you're insane.
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Please research this before saying it. I know I am new to the world of Grand Prix and these boards, but not the world of audio.

And by custom installation I figured you meant hacking the rear deck to accept a 10" sub. Since he said "easy to install" and "not too expensive" (even though he spelled it like a 5 year old). I must have been insane not to assume you meant build a custom enclosure as well.
 
IB = ten times vas.

Trunk holds say 300-400 L (leaks like a whore too.... and that combined with the flexing = terrible sound quality)

So what driver do you know has a vas of 30-40 L?

If you went by the 4 times definition you might have 80-100 L Vas at most. But at that point you're better off going sealed.

When no one states their GOALS nor the BUDGET then I dont see any point in providing a massive list of suggestions.

As far as I'm concerned, those tens would be easy to install. Just as they're not too expensive as far as i'm concerned.

But again, there are no clearly defined goals so we can all suggest whatever we want and it wont help the OP anyways.

Its like those stupid "What parts should i buy for my car to make it fast" threads. No goals, no budget, no help.

Edit: official count is 453 litres in the trunk.
 
I'm an audio engineer but im not really familiar with car audio brands as much but all i can tell you is get some crystal clear sounding speakers and get a sub. Balance the subs volume so the music sounds full. I hate when i go into somebodys car and its all bass. Use the equalizer. If you want more crisp, clear sounding music turn up the treble. Mids are very important but i tend to leave them at 0 or +1 because if you add too much it will sound sort of tinny. Then find a proper setting for the bass to balance everything out and make it sound fulll!
 
matt5112 said:
IB = ten times vas.

Trunk holds say 300-400 L (leaks like a whore too.... and that combined with the flexing = terrible sound quality)

So what driver do you know has a vas of 30-40 L?

If you went by the 4 times definition you might have 80-100 L Vas at most. But at that point you're better off going sealed.
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Matt, I'm new here so I don't want to sit and debate audio knowledge all day. I find it hard to believe you've never seen an infinate baffle setup. 10 x Vas is simply a suggested benchmark. It all depends on the speaker. True IB is where Qts = Qtc. I've seen some as low as 4.
Any sub will "work" in IB, it just depends on what you want your response curve to look like. The parameters only dictate the response of the speaker, not how you can install it. If it generates a response you like then it "works" great for your application. You can model responses all day long in WinISD if you want to check out how different speakers react to install types.
Subs that will work well in infinite-baffle setups won't always be labeled as IB drivers. Looking at a sub's specs, look for a high Qts, at least 0.5. Something approaching 0.65-0.7 is better. On the other side of that coin, there are a lot of manufacturers that will claim their subs will work in IB, but this isn't true. At least they won't work well. Look at the Qts. It tells all.
 


and your trunk is made of what again?

And its braced how?

I like how you say you dont want to argue audio because you're new yet you ignore my comments about the usefulness of this thread and focus merely on the technical aspects.... :D
 
If you want I can dig it up...but there's a speaker by AE that has a 10x Vas that matches our trunk space. The biggest issue with IB in vehicles is tracking down vibration and leaks. But IB has been done before successfully. It's just a b. to make happen
 
Correct, I don't want to argue. But when you called me insane and that IB is not possible in a car. I just felt like I needed to make sure newbs aren't mis-informed. IB is possible. Actually its quite common, or at least was quite common with high end factory stereos.
 


fair enough. :D

One more thing to say on the topic.... never use drivers with aluminum cones in anything but a non-leaky box else you WILL bottom it out and destroy it.
 
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