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Best Performing and looking cold air intake?

SyntheticShield said:
This is extremely good info guys. Great work and even better information. It times like this that my joy abounds even more that this community was formed.
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I have been on many fourms. From mustangs to here and this is by far the best.This is not a fourm but better known like you stated...A community..shoot i feel like were all neighbors or something lol
 


TDCRacing said:
I have been on many fourms. From mustangs to here and this is by far the best.This is not a fourm but better known like you stated...A community..shoot i feel like were all neighbors or something lol
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Thats exactly what I am shooting for here and thank you so much for saying that. Its nice to hear.
 
TDCRacing said:
Test was done with a glass of ice water (32*F)

...instantly started going down in at least 8 deg decreasements and took aprox. 16 seconds to reach 35* and stayed there contiunesly even at 35 seconds.
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I just wanted to point out that I doubt the glass of ice water was 32*. If it was it would be solid ice right? ;) So 35* is probably pretty close. Although that isn't really being debated. :D
 
Well, that being said...who's up for a little bit of R&D on some new IAT sensors. I can order them, solder the new thermisistor on and let people see for themselves. Ordering a $15 and paying $8 for shipping seems a little ridiculous, but ordering say 5 of them new, and acquiring some sensors for donation, even at a salvage yard they can't run more than $5 each...(only because I'm not COMPLETELY dishonest) lol

anyone up for it? I know I'm game.
 
Going Too Phast said:
I just wanted to point out that I doubt the glass of ice water was 32*. If it was it would be solid ice right? ;) So 35* is probably pretty close. Although that isn't really being debated. :D
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no the ice water in the glass is actually 32*F...i know it is kind of confusing but this method is used weekly to calibrate food thermmometers for fast food resturants as well as walmarts deli ect and they are calibrated to 32 deg using this method


stick a hvac temp gauge (the little pen thermmometers with the gauge face about the size of a quarter) in the glass and it will say 32*f
 


I don't think that the exact temperature of the water would be exactly important. What we do know, is that it took at least 16 seconds for the sensor to show the exact temperature that we were shooting for, which in MY opinion, and hopefully others agree...is unacceptable. I'm on the return road after 16 seconds, and that could be precious time that could have been used for direct input.

Well, let's just say how about 5 people say they want one....Myself and I think Scotty included...along with TDCRacing....that leaves 2 people and I will PM them the total when I get things lined out. This way, I'm not breaking myself on buying these 15 bucks at a time, and the shipping would be more evenly distributed, plus counting the cost of finding a few sensors. A one time deal at first, then after we have some real testing we can go from there.....I can probably have these done in the next couple of weeks.
 
cone off the throttle body WILL make the most power. i dont care who you are or what you have done to your car. ESPECIALLY if youre intercooled.
 
scoobyydooooooo said:
sabrewings, this is just the look I am after,,, did you notice any increased power, HP? I am going to get something just like that,, I have seen there are not alot of options for my 05 gtp though.. I have seached all the major GTP sites and have not yet came up with anything... Money really is not a huge deal if i get what i want.. thanks
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I noticed a significant increase in throttle response. As far as compatibility, I'm pretty sure the WizAired has a version that works with Series III motors. Contact ZZP and ask.

Bio248 said:
cone off the throttle body WILL make the most power. i dont care who you are or what you have done to your car. ESPECIALLY if youre intercooled.
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That makes no sense given the math.

From this curve, the intake air temperature significantly influences the horsepower output of an engine. For example, if an engine's intake temperature was dropped from 110°F to 75°F, then the change is horsepower is approximately +7% ( -1% @ 75°F minus -8% @ 110°F). If the engine normally produces 200 horsepower, then this 7% increase in power translates to about a 14 horsepower increase. Achieving the lowest possible intake temperatures is therefore very advantageous.
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CAI_Primer_Thermal

And 110*F is very generous to the cooler side of the temp of the air being sucked in by a open cone on a hot day with the fans running. Probably more like 150+*F. But, given the 110*F, and that it's 70*F so the CAI is probably getting 75*F air after a little heatsoak on its way in, you're saying that alone, the removal of the restriction caused by the intake tube will net you more than a 14HP increase (on a stock L36)? It just doesn't follow with what we know already.

Just referring to non-intercooled cars, by the way. But, the more power you're making, the greater HP to be had by cooling the intake charge. The engine is not losing 14-15HP because of the intake tube (let's be realistic here), so your statement is not supported.

I prefer a discussion based on facts, so if you have proof I'm very interested to see it.
 
Isnt there a boatload of research data linked on zzp's site where they sell the wizaired?

Anyway going back to an earlier mention of making the hood functional. Does everyone agree its not worth it? I have the wizaired kit on my car and have recently installed the WS6 hood. I thought it didnt make sense to have it functional because the airflow doesnt seem smooth from the scoops to the box. Therefore I have stayed with the wizaired. Did I make the right call?
 


thats a huge gain. i dont believe that in the least. thats some crazy estimated math theyve got there. show me the dyno.

and l36, maybe its a little better. but on an l67 it means basically nothing. the blower is heating that up anyway. open cone = more air. m90 likes air, mmmm.
 
David99GTP said:
Isnt there a boatload of research data linked on zzp's site where they sell the wizaired?

Anyway going back to an earlier mention of making the hood functional. Does everyone agree its not worth it? I have the wizaired kit on my car and have recently installed the WS6 hood. I thought it didnt make sense to have it functional because the airflow doesnt seem smooth from the scoops to the box. Therefore I have stayed with the wizaired. Did I make the right call?
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the guys who designed the origianal GTO agreed that it was useless to have a ram air hood as there is a low pressure point at the front of the hood
 
how were your temps cooler than ambient? lol......yeah i would like to go intercooled as well....do you have the ss?
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How? Easy, The MSP CAI lid is above the radiator support. It catches air that comes between the hood and radiator support. While moving your CAI is always getting air. The MSP CAI is the only CAI that does this and in my opinion make it very superior. Obviously a Ram Air Hood can get more air in the box, how much more I donno. Minimal at best, I did this mod later on mostly for looks. The Thrasher and the the Wizaired aren't designed like this. The wizaired looks very similiar to a Thrasher. My GFs car has a Thrasher CAI, it works alright, but my MSP CAI kicks its ass in every way. I plan on doing some thermal mods on it soon, to see if I can improve it. The Thrasher doesn't come with any thermal stuff like the MSP did (the MSP had a DEI blanket and f-duct wrap factory). My MSP is cool inside the box. You can tell a big difference putting your hand in the box verses in the engine bay.

As for an IC, I have a PRJ Intercooler (a Recored MAP IC), far better than an SS.


This was discussed at length at NAIOA. The general consensus is that intercooled drivers would prefer the open cone because of the increase flow, and the air will be cooled by the intercooler anyway. For non-intercooled, the cooler is of much greater benefit.
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IMO you can't have too much cold air. Your IC has to work harder to cool the hot air it sucked in, so you won't have as cool of a charge. If you already have cold air going into the IC, a good IC will only cool it above and beyond which is better IMO. I know my exit line on my IC stays pretty cold and I think this is part of the reason.

As for IAT sensor, I'm surprised alot of you still have an use them, I got rid of mine years ago for a Happy Knob. I love having adjustable timing on the fly, especially around here. All the gas is **** around here IMO.
 
Iron Indian said:
How? Easy, The MSP CAI lid is above the radiator support. It catches air that comes between the hood and radiator support. While moving your CAI is always getting air. The MSP CAI is the only CAI that does this and in my opinion make it very superior. Obviously a Ram Air Hood can get more air in the box, how much more I donno. Minimal at best, I did this mod later on mostly for looks. The Thrasher and the the Wizaired aren't designed like this. The wizaired looks very similiar to a Thrasher. My GFs car has a Thrasher CAI, it works alright, but my MSP CAI kicks its ass in every way. I plan on doing some thermal mods on it soon, to see if I can improve it. The Thrasher doesn't come with any thermal stuff like the MSP did (the MSP had a DEI blanket and f-duct wrap factory). My MSP is cool inside the box. You can tell a big difference putting your hand in the box verses in the engine bay.

.
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your intake temps cannot be lower than ambient because ambient is the temp that is outside of the car...I guess you just didnt understand what i was saying...or maybe i dont understand what you are saying lol:th_shakinghead2:
 
Bio248 said:
thats a huge gain. i dont believe that in the least. thats some crazy estimated math theyve got there. show me the dyno.
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If you go to the link, you would see that the chart they have is based off data published by SAE for calibrating dyno results and the math is middle school level, so it is correct.
 


Bio248 said:
thats a huge gain. i dont believe that in the least. thats some crazy estimated math theyve got there. show me the dyno.

and l36, maybe its a little better. but on an l67 it means basically nothing. the blower is heating that up anyway. open cone = more air. m90 likes air, mmmm.
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i would have to agree....on the m90 part about them likeing air...but your l67 or l36 for that matter does not like hot air.
 
Reptile said:
I don't think that the exact temperature of the water would be exactly important. What we do know, is that it took at least 16 seconds for the sensor to show the exact temperature that we were shooting for, which in MY opinion, and hopefully others agree...is unacceptable. I'm on the return road after 16 seconds, and that could be precious time that could have been used for direct input.

Well, let's just say how about 5 people say they want one....Myself and I think Scotty included...along with TDCRacing....that leaves 2 people and I will PM them the total when I get things lined out. This way, I'm not breaking myself on buying these 15 bucks at a time, and the shipping would be more evenly distributed, plus counting the cost of finding a few sensors. A one time deal at first, then after we have some real testing we can go from there.....I can probably have these done in the next couple of weeks.
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some one explain to me exactly what we are doing here as far as testing these things....i got lost a while back in all of the confusion:cool:
 
your intake temps cannot be lower than ambient because ambient is the temp that is outside of the car...I guess you just didnt understand what i was saying...or maybe i dont understand what you are saying lol
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Of course it can.... with the air gap on the CAI it catchs the air, the which is cool because its moving and its sucked up in the CAI. With the car stopped the box wouldn't heat up much if any because of the termal barriers on the box, so at idle the air would remain cool. Make sense?
 
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