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Bandook's 01 Imp, top swap-ified

OK, I'll use the rest of my tube of copper rtv tonight if I have to, and let it sit till tomorrow. After that its HF welder, and the nightmare welds that follow and will make you taste your stomach contents in the back of your throats.


dont try to weld it. you'll never get the back side. rtv will work, you dont need a 1/2 a tube either lol run a bead around the lip, smear it. clamp it, done deal.
 


Pffft, I've tried "thin for the win"... Twice. Now its full out warfare. I think its just a crap fit. Its like the angle of the crossover needs tweaked about 3 degrees for it to fit right. I've loosened them and slid them around trying to find that sweet spot but it's just crap no matter where I try to tighten them. Its a small leak, but enough to mess with my head. If this doesn't work I'll probably use these through the winter then look for something better next spring.
 


That tin foil over the coolant temp sensor a special mod you're keeping secret...lol!

Nah, I had some heat shield foil stuff i had laying around so I stuck it on there. I think there was some factory heatshield material on there before I did the swap.
 
the last time I messed with my headers, I mucked up the connections with copper rtv, and it worked, at least on the front connection
 
i didn mine all billboost style two times now, no rtv, no leaks. old style sd headers. got em used. and i could see they leaked all over for the last owner. yet they dont leak for me lol

he also used U clamps for everything. 1/2 the bolts were loose too.
 
OK I'll bite, what's billboost style? Install headers and downpipe on engine, on the stand, ...and reassemble car around them?
 


I'm going to fix the exhaust header leaks one more time, and need them to last 3 months. I plan on doing the turbo swap by then. might have a set of headers for sale in 4 months.
 
Billboost is.. Sell all Wbodys and buy a Audi and not worry about leaky SD headers anymore.


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Just read it. I basically did the same but didn't use a rubber mallet. I just banged the crossover around with the heal of my hand and coerced it into what seemed like its natural resting place. Dunno though, I still say the angle is off a couple degrees.
 


iirc it says to leave the rear header loose too, then whack the pipe to get it lined up, then tigten up all the headers bolts. how mine went down.

only my cross over pipe has no fight left in it lol its been handled so many times now it knows where it wants to be.
 
No it says tighten rear header first, and tap crossover while tightening front header. Then tighten clamps. The crossover moves freely with rear header bolted down, until front is tight then its locked in place.
 
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