WickedGoat
New member
Kudos for systematically approaching this. Had a Ford Ranger do this to me in the shop and eventually traced it to the prop valve. Customer insisted it was the master but I wouldn't just take his word for it.
bad master
- Thread starter primem
- Start date
primem
New member
Posting the fix.
After finding a used ebcm/bpmv and installing it, my problem still occurred. Replacing the brake master cylinder fixed the problem. I theorize, the ports in the m/c were not allowing fluid flow back to the reservoir. This created the hard, high pedal feel. After sitting overnight, the fluid would bleed back and be normal until the next several brake applications. The dtc set in the ebcm turned out to be from the pressure sensor seeing pressure when the brake pedal was not applied. Why i was seeing more drag in the l/f i cannot explain. All drag conditions are now gone. Hope this helps someone.
After finding a used ebcm/bpmv and installing it, my problem still occurred. Replacing the brake master cylinder fixed the problem. I theorize, the ports in the m/c were not allowing fluid flow back to the reservoir. This created the hard, high pedal feel. After sitting overnight, the fluid would bleed back and be normal until the next several brake applications. The dtc set in the ebcm turned out to be from the pressure sensor seeing pressure when the brake pedal was not applied. Why i was seeing more drag in the l/f i cannot explain. All drag conditions are now gone. Hope this helps someone.
WickedGoat
New member
Makes perfect sense. Good work by you...
Back to the whole throwing parts thing... My wife's Yukon's AC quit the other day. I told her I would eventually get after it. She called a shop and asked them their opinion and they said to bring it in for a recharge. She told me this and I said no. Started messing around with it and found the pressure cycling switch was no good. Replaced that and the front AC was working again. Dove into the rear AC and found the issue there... Broken blend door. So now I have to source that from the dealership and tear that all apart to fix that. Moral of the story... Would have spent $125 for nothing and spent hundreds more having shop do what I am capable of doing. It sucked to have to tear the back of the Yukon out to access the AC system but it is what it is. If we aren't willing to spend the time to figure out what is wrong then we will be forever throwing parts at it or spending unnecessary money for a shop to fix something we can do ourselves.
Back to the whole throwing parts thing... My wife's Yukon's AC quit the other day. I told her I would eventually get after it. She called a shop and asked them their opinion and they said to bring it in for a recharge. She told me this and I said no. Started messing around with it and found the pressure cycling switch was no good. Replaced that and the front AC was working again. Dove into the rear AC and found the issue there... Broken blend door. So now I have to source that from the dealership and tear that all apart to fix that. Moral of the story... Would have spent $125 for nothing and spent hundreds more having shop do what I am capable of doing. It sucked to have to tear the back of the Yukon out to access the AC system but it is what it is. If we aren't willing to spend the time to figure out what is wrong then we will be forever throwing parts at it or spending unnecessary money for a shop to fix something we can do ourselves.