Booba5185
New member
Hey everyone,
In this write-up, I'll be showing you how to add an auto up, auto down, and auto up\down to your power windows. This principle can be applied to power seats, moon roofs, basically any reversible DC motor. In my case, I want auto up and auto down for my front windows, and only auto down for my rear windows (kids). This is actually a very simple and cheap mod, junkyards are your friends.
In the mid 90s, Ford used a one-touch module to enable their driver windows to roll down. These modules were mounted in the driver side door, normally on the door itself, sometimes on the door panel. They are pretty hard to miss. From what I have read, they came in 92-95 Ford Taurus's, Crown Vics, Mustangs, Exploders, Mountaineers, Town Cars, just to name a few. Wander the Ford section of the junkyard and rip off door panels, you will find some.
As far as tools are concerned, you'll need to remove the doors panels, cut\splice wires, and mount the modules. Use whatever tools you need to do those things.
Here's what the modules look like, I made a JY trip and bought some other things, but the modules are in a row of 5. You need one module for each "auto" operation. So in my case, I wanted auto up on the driver (1 module), Auto up\down on the passenger (2 modules), and auto down on the rear doors (2 modules).
As far as wiring is concerned, they all have 5 wires leading to them. So far, every car has had different colors wires. SInce there is no common ground on wire colors, we are forced to resort to wire numbers. Each module has 5 pins, and if you unplug the harness, you will see that the numbers 1-5 are marked above the pins on the module. We'll start with adding auto up to the driver side. Here's the simplest pinout:
Pin 1: Direction output to motor
Pin 2: Direction input to module
Pin 3: +12v
Pin 4: Opposite direction (cancel)
Pin 5: Ground
Before I start explaining everything, it is important to understand one thing. Our window motors have 2 wires going to them, dark blue and brown. When the window is going DOWN, the brown wire gets +12V, when going up, the dark blue wire get's +12v. Get it? Good.
So Pin 3 and 5 are obivous, they provide the unit with power and ground. Connect pin 5 to anything metal, BOOM, you are 20% done with your wiring. Pin 3 will go to the yellow wire coming out of the window switch on the driver side (Pin 3 will change for the passenger and rear doors, more on this later). The way to figure out what to connect to pin 2 is to ask yourself, "Self, which way do I want this window to automatically roll?" If your answer is "Up", pin 2 gets connected to the "Up" (Dark Blue) wire. If your answer is "down", pin 2 gets connected to the "down" (Brown) wire. Since I'm showing you auto up right now, We'll say the answer is "up". Since Pin 2 gets connected to the Dark Blue wire, I unplugged the motor, and cut the blue wire about 4 inches from the plug. I connected the dark blue wire coming from the window switch to the wire that leads to pin 2. Next up is pin 1. Pin 1 in the output to motor for the direction you are rolling. This pin connects to other side of the wire you just cut. Dark blue wire leading to the motor was connected to pin 1. Pin 4 splices into the opposite direction's +12v, the Brown wire. This wire taps into the existing connection, so the brown wire still connects directly to the motor, I just had to splice this wire into it. Confused? Here's a pretty picture:
Passenger side and rear doors are a bit more difficult because the +12v wire leading to the window switches (pin 3) is no longer yellow. It is now...you guessed it...dark blue. So now you have to determine which dark blue wire leads to the motor and which blue wire is the +12v. This is important so take a deep breath and pay attention:
For the rear doors the Blue wire labeled "B" on the window switch connector leads to the motor, the dark blue wire labeled "D" on the connector leads to +12V.
For the Passenger connector I don't remember, I'll have to pull my door panel off and take a pic to see, or you could use a multimeter to check for continuity with the dark blue wire leading to the motor.
Passenger side is a bit harder to explain, so I'll let the picture do most of the talking. Remember, what ever direction goes into pin 2 comes back out of Pin 1 to the motor.
For the rear doors, it's basically the same as the front driver doors, except you swap the Brown and Dark Blue Wires. By that I mean you cut the brown wire, connect the harness side to pin 2 and the motor side to pin 1. Then splice pin 4 in the dark blue wire. Pic:
Sounds easy enough and makes sense-ish right? Time to get to work outside. I started on the rear doors first, then did the front passenger, and then front driver. Here's a pic of the Rear door:
I pulled a switch out of one of the door panels for testing purposes. In this pic you can see where I mounted the module itself. See the black ziptie? It's holding the module in place on the inside of the door:
Here's the Passenger side, I'll get more pics when I pull it apart again. I mounted them to the upper right a bit from where they are sitting in this pic, but I should have mounted them right where they are, but on the other side of the sheet metal. I'll probably move them when I take it apart for pics:
I haven't installed the driver side yet, that is happening later tonight! More pics for better detail to come!
In this write-up, I'll be showing you how to add an auto up, auto down, and auto up\down to your power windows. This principle can be applied to power seats, moon roofs, basically any reversible DC motor. In my case, I want auto up and auto down for my front windows, and only auto down for my rear windows (kids). This is actually a very simple and cheap mod, junkyards are your friends.
In the mid 90s, Ford used a one-touch module to enable their driver windows to roll down. These modules were mounted in the driver side door, normally on the door itself, sometimes on the door panel. They are pretty hard to miss. From what I have read, they came in 92-95 Ford Taurus's, Crown Vics, Mustangs, Exploders, Mountaineers, Town Cars, just to name a few. Wander the Ford section of the junkyard and rip off door panels, you will find some.
As far as tools are concerned, you'll need to remove the doors panels, cut\splice wires, and mount the modules. Use whatever tools you need to do those things.
Here's what the modules look like, I made a JY trip and bought some other things, but the modules are in a row of 5. You need one module for each "auto" operation. So in my case, I wanted auto up on the driver (1 module), Auto up\down on the passenger (2 modules), and auto down on the rear doors (2 modules).
As far as wiring is concerned, they all have 5 wires leading to them. So far, every car has had different colors wires. SInce there is no common ground on wire colors, we are forced to resort to wire numbers. Each module has 5 pins, and if you unplug the harness, you will see that the numbers 1-5 are marked above the pins on the module. We'll start with adding auto up to the driver side. Here's the simplest pinout:
Pin 1: Direction output to motor
Pin 2: Direction input to module
Pin 3: +12v
Pin 4: Opposite direction (cancel)
Pin 5: Ground
Before I start explaining everything, it is important to understand one thing. Our window motors have 2 wires going to them, dark blue and brown. When the window is going DOWN, the brown wire gets +12V, when going up, the dark blue wire get's +12v. Get it? Good.
So Pin 3 and 5 are obivous, they provide the unit with power and ground. Connect pin 5 to anything metal, BOOM, you are 20% done with your wiring. Pin 3 will go to the yellow wire coming out of the window switch on the driver side (Pin 3 will change for the passenger and rear doors, more on this later). The way to figure out what to connect to pin 2 is to ask yourself, "Self, which way do I want this window to automatically roll?" If your answer is "Up", pin 2 gets connected to the "Up" (Dark Blue) wire. If your answer is "down", pin 2 gets connected to the "down" (Brown) wire. Since I'm showing you auto up right now, We'll say the answer is "up". Since Pin 2 gets connected to the Dark Blue wire, I unplugged the motor, and cut the blue wire about 4 inches from the plug. I connected the dark blue wire coming from the window switch to the wire that leads to pin 2. Next up is pin 1. Pin 1 in the output to motor for the direction you are rolling. This pin connects to other side of the wire you just cut. Dark blue wire leading to the motor was connected to pin 1. Pin 4 splices into the opposite direction's +12v, the Brown wire. This wire taps into the existing connection, so the brown wire still connects directly to the motor, I just had to splice this wire into it. Confused? Here's a pretty picture:
Passenger side and rear doors are a bit more difficult because the +12v wire leading to the window switches (pin 3) is no longer yellow. It is now...you guessed it...dark blue. So now you have to determine which dark blue wire leads to the motor and which blue wire is the +12v. This is important so take a deep breath and pay attention:
For the rear doors the Blue wire labeled "B" on the window switch connector leads to the motor, the dark blue wire labeled "D" on the connector leads to +12V.
For the Passenger connector I don't remember, I'll have to pull my door panel off and take a pic to see, or you could use a multimeter to check for continuity with the dark blue wire leading to the motor.
Passenger side is a bit harder to explain, so I'll let the picture do most of the talking. Remember, what ever direction goes into pin 2 comes back out of Pin 1 to the motor.
For the rear doors, it's basically the same as the front driver doors, except you swap the Brown and Dark Blue Wires. By that I mean you cut the brown wire, connect the harness side to pin 2 and the motor side to pin 1. Then splice pin 4 in the dark blue wire. Pic:
Sounds easy enough and makes sense-ish right? Time to get to work outside. I started on the rear doors first, then did the front passenger, and then front driver. Here's a pic of the Rear door:
I pulled a switch out of one of the door panels for testing purposes. In this pic you can see where I mounted the module itself. See the black ziptie? It's holding the module in place on the inside of the door:
Here's the Passenger side, I'll get more pics when I pull it apart again. I mounted them to the upper right a bit from where they are sitting in this pic, but I should have mounted them right where they are, but on the other side of the sheet metal. I'll probably move them when I take it apart for pics:
I haven't installed the driver side yet, that is happening later tonight! More pics for better detail to come!
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