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Audio Upgrade Power Install

NegativeOne13

NegativeOne13

New member
Alright currently running two 12" 4 ohms DVC RF 500WRMS in parallel at 1 ohm with a 1000WRMS Hifonics amp. I am currently running 4ga wire back, and grounding out the amp to a clean strut post. I currently have some dimming of the lights at higher sound levels. I have upgraded all in the big 3 minus battery negative to block with 0 gauge wire. I am looking at going with 2 12" 4 ohm DVC 1000WRMS subs and a 2000WRMS Hifonics Brutus wired in parallel to 1 ohm.. I am planning on upgrading the battery negative to 0 gauge, along with power wire going back, and amp grounding wire. Obviously I probably won't be able to provide the Brutus with 14.4V.... but is there anything I should do to help get closer to that? Outside of adding a cap or bigger alternator.
 


I actually thought about running a second battery in the trunk. Plus I'm not so sure they have H.O. alternators for the '05... but I haven't searched too hard.
 
They do. DB electrical has some on the budget end... some people love em, some people hate em, based on what I've read on the audio forums. Mechman makes an alternator for our cars as well, as would a few other major companies as the 3800 is still everywhere. Check with DC or Singer Alternators for other alternatives. Do your research on DC though... awesome product, but "interesting" to deal with at times. There's also the large-case alt conversion. Google will help you find that, should you be interested in going that route.

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db electrical is junk, mine didn't even make it 2 years, Ohio Gen is what I'm running now and love it. Also keep in mind that when you wire at 1ohm it won't play at 1ohm. Example: I have my subs wired at 1ohm and it usually has gone up to 2.3 to 3ohm. Also keep in mind you won't get rated out of most amps unless your voltage is good. Either way if you want to play with 2kw your gonna need a HO alt and a good battery in the back.
 
That is what I figured as a HO alt at least bare minimum. And I also know that I won't be getting the true wattage... because good luck feeding it at constant 14.4V. On top of that all my lighting is HID so there is a decent draw right there.
 


Eh, even if you had no voltage drop, music is dynamic. Box rise is a fact of life. An XS Power D3400 to replace the stocker and a decent 250 amp although should hold you on 2k, assuming you don't play for long periods of time sitting still lol. Local impala has that and is running an AQ2200 along with some 4 channel, don't recall which. Just keep an eye on your voltage and you should be OK.... but an additional small battery in the rear wouldn't hurt. 2500 or so (assuming sub and 4 channel) isn't an outrageous amount of wattage to support.

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xtatic or batcap for the trunk would be best route. I ran a Ma Audio 10,000 watt amp that was 4400 rms . 2200 rms to each 12 inch Ma Audio subs @ .5 ohm that was all in a grand prix too in a 3.5 cubic foot box built in 2 separate pieces and screwed together inside the car with the seats out then reinstalled. Port was tuned to 36hz. and ported through where the arm rest folds down for the trunk access. That car had 2 yellow tops in the spare tire well and I got a 180 amp stator and rebuild the alt myself. If you need to you can find higher output guts to rebuild the stock alt. IMO this is the best route to go because the stock case will still be the same and you wont have any fitment issues. Still loudest car ive ever been in hit 137.something on the dash with everything below the window line of the vehicle making it a street class car if I was going to use it in a competition. Long ago when I first got out of HS was the big bass days. Now its make things go fast and ask people to repeat what they just said.......... LMFAO working on bradleys and being overseas a few times doesn't help either!

HUH what did you just say????

Good luck Id up grade the alt and as for only running 2k watts an alt is the best place to start and might not even need a cap. Rule of thumb is 1 farad for every 1k watts so you would need at least a 2 farad cap.

BTW Hifonics is known for making good power but they are neither clean power or efficient amps........
 
Vet... where would you go about learning and gathering parts for the upgraded stock alt? That really sparks my curiosity now. I still love listening to Quad Maximus back before bad bass drops was found mostly in dubstep.

As for sound deadener.... if I do go through with a 2k I will eventually get there.
 


Ill see if I can dig it up again I got the parts from Northwest Power systems in Thief River Falls MN, that's basically just an electronic motor store for industrial equipment and ag equipment. I will do some looking around and make some phone calls the car I had this in was a 96 GTP with the 3.4 DOHC pain in the ass to work on that alt because on them engines its way down in the back of the engine by the cv shaft! Stupid location!
 
NegativeOne13 said:
Plus I was under the impression that only 04 and 05 alternators work as the connector is different. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Idea #1: Learn to solder (Oh wait..you already know how to! :th_mischievious:)
http://www.grandprixforums.net/showthread.php?t=83927&highlight=alternator

CS144 baby! And I'd suggest a better ground. The strut bolt you are hooking to is connected to the strut plate which only goes through what was a painted hole in the body. I had the back seat out, and went to a solid bolt for a seat hook etc. Can't rust, won't corrode...
 
Bill... glad to see you chime in! Haven't talked to you in forever it seems. Anywho so you suggest just case swapping a CS144 then soldering on the leads for the connector board? As for ground I was actually planning on picking a better ground as well as grounding out my battery to the block as well for the amp. As far as the per say big 3 upgrade, if you did it, what did you ground out your battery to for the body? Currently it is on the front passenger strut tower as well. I heard it helps a lot to be able to nut it so you can tighten it to get the best possible contact.

And a donor alternator such as this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/150-Amp-High-Output-GM-CS144-Large-Case-Alternator-/250329603285

And thanks for the input so far guys... it has been greatly helpful.
 


I'm saying if you want more power from a stock alt that was meant to put it out forever, that's an option.

Me, I had my back seat/deck out and in a cubby in there found a nice big stud/nut for something like a seat hook or baby seat holder. Clean, direct to the body and not in an area where you worry about any rust or corrosion.
 
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