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audio noob with some questions.

Kizorm

Kizorm

New member
alright first and foremost i just bought a new GTP and the previous owner told me the car was ready for subs and blah blah blah installed by best buy and such.. so ive been reading audio threads on this site like crazy for the past couple of days and learned quite a bit from having no previous knowledge on this stuff. I have some questions though

my HU is a kenwood kdc-135

heres my trunk's wiring:
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/ac8/mitchmrozik/IMG_0089.jpg

i think its meant for 2 subs and a single amp. which is what i was thinking on doing, but i was curious how i find out what the gauge of my wire is or even if my wires are any good since best buy apparently did the wiring. if they are ****** what should i get to replace them? As i was reading it seems that the higher the watts you are running or intend to run need a smaller gauged wire depending on the length as well?

i saw that one member posted a sonic electrix website and i looked on that and saw some decent cheap amps and subs. i wanted to run something that will give me some bump, is 1000w too much for 2 subs? if its not what should i get so i can make that happen? and how would i wire that because there's the whole OHM and RMS that is tossed into the equation. is it better for the subs to be at a lower OHM, if im running 2 and they have a 4 OHM should i run them at 2? is that easier on both the life of the amp and the subs? this is what somewhat confuses me because im not really sure what subs or amps to get. also should i get an amp that has a built in fan or should i do it myself, if so how would i approach that.
would i also need to get a capacitor and/or a distributor?
also can someone explain to me how channels between the subs and amp work?

i also came across boxes, it seems most people port them..does that depend on the subs or how should i do that?

last one is how do fuses work. i was reading and someone was talking about fuses and how its better to burn a fuse then your wiring, how would that happen, is that related back to the gauge of the wires? i read if you are using to much power on a gauged wire that cannot handle it, its a potential fire hazard and it could burn your system.

sorry for all these nooby questions i am just not sure what equipment to get i want to make sure i don't to get anything that is crappy. and from what ive seen most of you guys know your stuff.
thanks for the help
 


Kizorm said:
my HU is a kenwood kdc-135

heres my trunk's wiring:
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/ac8/mitchmrozik/IMG_0089.jpg
Click to expand...

The thick wires are +12power and ground red and black respectively.
The RCA's are the input for the not installed amp, of course. The blue wire with the RCA's is the remote turn-on line. I assume they are connected to the HU. That Kenwood has a "subwoofer mode" for the lone set of Line level RCA outs. Probably just a filter only deliver low freqs.

Dunno what the 2 sets of black/clear wires are for. Are they connected to anything ?? Some GP's have 4 "speakers" in the rear deck. Maybe they split a 4ch amp between the subs and the deck speakers originally.
Which makes no sense.
Also peeps use the speaker <high> level outputs and tap into them for an input source for a sub. But there are line level RCA's right there, which is a cleaner signal.
So that also makes no sense.
Maybe they run to the door speakers.

Do all the "stock" speakers work now??


What's your budget?

Get a 1.2 cu. ft. Sealed box. Throw a Dual Voice Coil 12" driver that is 2 ohms per tap in it. Spend $150 on a 2 channel amp that is a decent brand and 2 Ohm Stable...throw a 1 MFD stiffy cap on it for giggles. Call it a day.
 
Kizorm said:
alright first and foremost i just bought a new GTP and the previous owner told me the car was ready for subs and blah blah blah installed by best buy and such.. so ive been reading audio threads on this site like crazy for the past couple of days and learned quite a bit from having no previous knowledge on this stuff. I have some questions though

my HU is a kenwood kdc-135

heres my trunk's wiring:
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/ac8/mitchmrozik/IMG_0089.jpg

i think its meant for 2 subs and a single amp. which is what i was thinking on doing, but i was curious how i find out what the gauge of my wire is or even if my wires are any good since best buy apparently did the wiring. it should say on the wiring also post up the size of the fuse in the engine bay if they are ****** what should i get to replace them? As i was reading it seems that the higher the watts you are running or intend to run need a smaller gauged wire depending on the length as well? keep in mind smaller awg = bigger wire lol

i saw that one member posted a sonic electrix website and i looked on that and saw some decent cheap amps and subs. i wanted to run something that will give me some bump, is 1000w too much for 2 subs? Depends on the subs if its not what should i get so i can make that happen? and how would i wire that because there's the whole OHM and RMS that is tossed into the equation. is it better for the subs to be at a lower OHM, if im running 2 and they have a 4 OHM should i run them at 2? is that easier on both the life of the amp and the subs? that all depends on the set up and independence rise this is what somewhat confuses me because im not really sure what subs or amps to get. also should i get an amp that has a built in fan or should i do it myself, if so how would i approach that. On amps for subs you want a decent Class D amp
would i also need to get a capacitor and/or a distributor? Disto-block if your going to be running more than 1 amp off the power wire...
also can someone explain to me how channels between the subs and amp work? simple mono theres 1 signal for bass not really r/l channel

i also came across boxes, it seems most people port them..does that depend on the subs or how should i do that? are you going for loud, on some notes (ported) or quiter on all notes (sealed) but plays most notes, less rattle ect.

last one is how do fuses work. i was reading and someone was talking about fuses and how its better to burn a fuse then your wiring, how would that happen, is that related back to the gauge of the wires? i read if you are using to much power on a gauged wire that cannot handle it, its a potential fire hazard and it could burn your system. that is correct you can also blow up your system by it getting a spike in power and frying everything...

sorry for all these nooby questions i am just not sure what equipment to get i want to make sure i don't to get anything that is crappy. and from what ive seen most of you guys know your stuff.
thanks for the help
Click to expand...

how much you want to spend will help alot also

and to the get a cap... that is n00b advice
 
then how loud do you want to go or are you thinking sq?
how big is the power wire?
where is the black wire connected?(its the ground or should be)
 
looks like 4 gauge power cable and ground, so i wouldnt go to powerful.. Plus after a point the subs cancel out the stock speakers and you cant even hear the words unless you get another AMP and all new interior speakers..That's the way to go if you want to do it right. Sonic Electronix is a good place to shop
 


Gregorius said:
Get a 1.2 cu. ft. Sealed box. Throw a Dual Voice Coil 12" driver that is 2 ohms per tap in it. Spend $150 on a 2 channel amp that is a decent brand and 2 Ohm Stable...throw a 1 MFD stiffy cap on it for giggles. Call it a day.
Click to expand...

You know that each sub will require a different box? Even ones of the exact same year, make and model?

DVC does nothing. Just means you have more wiring flexibility.

$150 on an amp isn't enough unless you want used.

Cap = useful if your amp isn't up to the task you present it.

Here are the questions the OP needs to answer:

Do you listen to rock or rap?

Do you like one note being louder than all the rest (unrealistic to say the least) or all the notes to be of very similar volume? (more realistic, this is granted that the notes are the same sound level in the track)

How much of your trunk are you able to part with?

You probably have a 4 gauge power and ground wire which is good enough for what you'll probably listen to.

Find out where those speaker wires go, they probably go to your front speakers. They're not for signal because thats what the RCA is for. The little blue wire off of the RCA is for the remote signal to turn on your amps.

Can't really analyze the wiring without seeing where they go and how they're connected and how long the runs are.
 
i do eventually plan on switching the speakers later on, but for now i just want to get some bumps...and if i have to i can put in smaller gauged wiring kit. i want it to be loud, but not to the point where i need to get another battery or a stronger alternator or something crazy like that.

and to matt i listen to all kinds of music, but if it were to bump it be to some rap, maybe some rock depending my mood but more likely rap.

im not looking for anything to "high pitched" if you will but i want it to sound deep, clear and loud

as for my trunk i can use all the space needed.

when i get a day off from work ill rip through the inside and see where the wires are connected and how long they are.
 
me personaly, i would have it re-wired..maybe down to 2ga but a flexiable wire(kicker hyper flex) i wouldnt/dont trust bestbuy workers!! find some1 to build you a ported custom enclosure... 2 12's or (cheaper) 1 nice 15.. get a class D mono amp, it will be ez on your electrical system. should/would a good bit of money left outa that $1000!! LOL

also remember....you get whay you pay for..

go to caraudio.com forums and find some good subs ppl are using..
 


well i know what type of subs are good...well what brands but i'm not sure what models to get..i personally will probably re wire it, the wires are short and it doesnt give me much room to work with. i want to see whats going on and best buy out of all places to get a system done? i dont trust it. also if i were to get 1 15 it would probably be a fi i hear good things about those subs..
 
off the top of my head jl, fi, rf, kenwood, memphis, alpine, mtx..eh, AQ etc theres plenty more that are better im sure that im missing. see what i mean though i dont know what to get. its a hard choice

as for amps i really have no clue, the only amp i have heard good things about is hifonics and ive never heard of them until 3 days ago. same with wiring kits i dont know whats good. and you do get what you pay for.
 


when it comes to wiring kits the price somewhat determines the quality of the connectors.

All the wiring is the same... despite what they tell you. For the most part at least.

for subs, i'd go for some Fi's since you're going to get a better value and they're made in the USA.

I'd suggest you get one Fi Q 15 and put it in a sealed box. Say 2-2.5 cubic feet for the box.

For amps, meh, they all sound the same granted they're working.

Just look for something that provides the kind of power you need and fits your budget.
 
Kizorm said:
off the top of my head jl, fi, rf, kenwood, memphis, alpine, mtx..eh, AQ
Click to expand...
FYI, fi and AQ should not be said the same sentence!!!!!!!! tisk tisk...

LMFAO. also port the box, 2 12's audioque hd2.5s or an fi 15 BL will get plenty loud for you...

amp........ mmats sundown or even mb quart discus series are great amps.. mb quart will be cheaper
 
A BL? Are you mad?

That would sound like dick. As would most ported subs in a car... since no on can manage a proper <20 Hz tune.
 
tc300 said:
FYI, fi and AQ should not be said the same sentence!!!!!!!! tisk tisk...

LMFAO. also port the box, 2 12's audioque hd2.5s or an fi 15 BL will get plenty loud for you...

amp........ mmats sundown or even mb quart discus series are great amps.. mb quart will be cheaper
Click to expand...

show me a "hd2.5" lolzzz

its all on how you put the box and how well its built/designed
 
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