T
TDCRacing
Guest
Brian ran that on a 2.8
Reptile
Bastard
Sure did, boost was around 15lbs iirc.
Shawn, I wouldn't recommend just shooting for this AFR, just saying what I run. I do this on a 2.8 now, and don't forget that the 100% accounts for some fuel as well. Without the meth, I can still run it on a 3.0 pulley at approx 11.4 AFR, which is still up there but not out of reach on a good tune. I think my O2's on the Denso look right at 910-920 at any given time depending on the weather. Humidity really isn't a factor in the summer, it runs just as fast when it's hot as it does when it's cold now.
reptile, u're running an M5 nozzle correct? i still dont understand how u're running a 2.8" pulley with mainly meth, possible injectors on a 12.0-12.2AFR? i cant run a 11.0-11.1 with a 2.9" on my M2(i think it is cant remember lol) nozzle. w/o maxxing my 42.5# injectors with 20* of timing.
SyntheticShield
New member
I think you're a freak.
T
TDCRacing
Guest
:th_laugh-pointup:
are u asking me? i *think* im using the M2 nozzle, i forgot what i have in there. however i tried running w/o any injection an aimed at running a 11.1-11.3AFR but with really low timing, like 13-14* with the current pulley or even with a 3.2" pulley. my IPWs i recalled from a run i did was in the 13-14mS at WOT(o_0?). unless my plx smr-afr wideband is messed up somehow showing inaccurate numbers, im now mainly going off of whether i'd get knock or not.
right now im debating in getting another brand wb and see if theres a difference in the outcome. and yes i did change my o2 sensor on the plx setup.
right now im debating in getting another brand wb and see if theres a difference in the outcome. and yes i did change my o2 sensor on the plx setup.
just checked my bag of nozzles and i have both my M15 and M2 nozzle. looks like im using the M5 right now 0_o
edit-i remember b4 i got the devils own controller, i was using a boost activated switch and the M15 nozzle with washer fluid. i was able to run like 25* of timing on a 3.4 and at least 19* with the 3.2" maxxing my stock injectors. however i was running out of washer fluid alot when i was spraying and since the boost activated was just at one setting, it wasnt spraying linearly with throttle nor the map sensor.
edit-i remember b4 i got the devils own controller, i was using a boost activated switch and the M15 nozzle with washer fluid. i was able to run like 25* of timing on a 3.4 and at least 19* with the 3.2" maxxing my stock injectors. however i was running out of washer fluid alot when i was spraying and since the boost activated was just at one setting, it wasnt spraying linearly with throttle nor the map sensor.
Iron Indian
New member
Hey Brian, sorry for the late reply.
Wow, 15 psi? How does that effect the MAP (assuming you are still running a 2 Bar)? Doesn't it max out? Just wondering what I should watch out for.
What turn on and full setting are you using currently on your controller?
And when you mention washer fluid, I assume you mean 50/50 mix? I'm running a DO5 nozzle currently....
Reptile
Bastard
Well most washer fluid is approx 35% give or take. The nice thing about the DO mix is just the fact it's consistent. The problems with running too high a water content is slowing the combustion down in the chamber. Just my opinion of course, but when you do enough testing to see that you can use a crummy mix to run a 2.8 pulley, yet run the same or slower time, the writing is on the wall....the more potent the mix, the bigger the nozzle. If you truly want to battle kr, then in this case an M3 would be just about right in keeping the temps down.
I don't have the controller set to any typical setting all of the time, it really depends on the weather, and how the car acts. Say that if I can run the car into the 5-7 psi range without the kit on, and then it starts to knock in the 8-10 range, I'll adjust the turn on point at about 6.....that's the thing I love about the progressive controller, is basically an on the fly tune capability. I'm sure its even better if you have the ICCU and you can tweak as you go. And usually when it comes on, I have it set to go full within 2 lbs of the kick on setting.
I don't have the controller set to any typical setting all of the time, it really depends on the weather, and how the car acts. Say that if I can run the car into the 5-7 psi range without the kit on, and then it starts to knock in the 8-10 range, I'll adjust the turn on point at about 6.....that's the thing I love about the progressive controller, is basically an on the fly tune capability. I'm sure its even better if you have the ICCU and you can tweak as you go. And usually when it comes on, I have it set to go full within 2 lbs of the kick on setting.
Iron Indian
New member
Thanks for info Brian.
Messing with my car a little Sunday i'm running a 2.9", about 17 degrees of timing (I think, need to verify), 11.6-11.7 AFR, and 0KR although i get a .5 or something spike at 3rd gear shift, I think thats false because of my solid mounts and hard shifting tranny. That of course with a DO5 nozzle and Devilsown Brew 50/50 mix. Turn on/full settings are at 4psi and 8psi. I probably need to go into full sooner, don't you think?
Messing with my car a little Sunday i'm running a 2.9", about 17 degrees of timing (I think, need to verify), 11.6-11.7 AFR, and 0KR although i get a .5 or something spike at 3rd gear shift, I think thats false because of my solid mounts and hard shifting tranny. That of course with a DO5 nozzle and Devilsown Brew 50/50 mix. Turn on/full settings are at 4psi and 8psi. I probably need to go into full sooner, don't you think?
Reptile
Bastard
If you're not getting any KR, then bump the timing, going into it any sooner may set you back farther than you need to be....try maybe setting the full dial up another pound or two to see if that does anything.
D
DevilsOwn
Guest
Yea, L67 are very proan to kr problem. In testing these on these motors we found most all work best in the 3 gph to 7gph range, And going more than the 7 would cause some issues.