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Anyone with lowering springs..........did you change out your sway bar end links!?!



BillBoost37 said:
Can you copy over the info about how much spacer etc on which springs. I can't see CGP and would enjoy the info.
Thanks
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Bill, it's really not much, but I'll copy it.

Pretty much, get a 5" grade 8 bolt to replace the original, and put anywhere between 2-4 washers in the place of the spacer that is on the original endlink.

47e70a6e.jpg


samsung402.jpg
 
only things i found with measurements...

gtpforever said:
The bolts in my kit are about 4" in length to the bottom of the head of the bolt or right around there. But mine is a farnsworth kit.
Click to expand...

firefightergtp (our copgtp) said:
Well, I needed a new bolt for my passenger side bc it stripped. I went ahead and got some 5" bolts and put 4 washers in place of the spacer. Its about 1/3 the size of the spacer.
Click to expand...

and a reaction from copper:

firefightergtp said:
So I went ahead and tried this mod out.........and I have to say it makes a HUGE difference!!! I was skeptical at first, but keeping that sway bar level really helps.

The car feels much better on the road now, doesn't feel as "touchy", and I don't get that wondering feeling either. I'm lowered on SSC springs and AGX struts, FWIW.

I went with a 5" grade 8 bolt, and 4 washers.
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i might need to try this. i was wondering about that before, but never looked under to see how badly theyre angled.
 
Thanks guys. I was trying to see if there was any info about which springs and typical amount of spacer needed based on the spring. Guess I'll just do a little work and figure where the bar is about level.
 
i can understand some level of deflection when the bar isnt level, but it seems like the benefits are exaggerated from the people posting about it. the bar being tipped an inch or two can't extrapolate to that much of a difference unless im just taking the positioning too lightly.
 


but it seems like the benefits are exaggerated from the people posting about it.
Click to expand...

I'm not one to exaggerate benefits about anything. If I feel a mod works, then I post about it working. The shorter endlinks helped tremendously with the feel of the cars handling both at low speeds and at high speed applications.

If you're so skeptical, I implore you to come drive my car, I still have the old endlinks in the garage. Then we will swap them out, and you can feel the difference yourself.
 
you're pretty far away there, chief.

it's okay. i'll explore with it when the time comes on my own vehicle as ill be trying to run as low as possible at all times.
 


Wanted to say hello to this forum and yes if you guys who are skeptical just do the research online about proper suspension geometry...being lowered there are other things that need to change in order for it properly do its job. Im in the process now of making shorter endlinks with heims from mccmaster car for my GXP
 
BillBoost37 said:
Can you copy over the info about how much spacer etc on which springs. I can't see CGP and would enjoy the info.
Thanks
Click to expand...
I was one of the guys on there that did this mod I was on SSC\AGX combo on my 97 GP and had tire wander problems and other issues with my suspension. And yes i had it aligned 5 freakin times till i got creative and tried this out...fixed my problems immediatley! all i did was get sway bar bushings (poly) from autozone get a grade 8 bolt from lowes and installed
pics And excuse the the dirt....**** u arizona lol

samsung370.jpg

samsung402.jpg
 
What this mod does, essentially, is change the "preload" on the sway bar. It essentially works the same way as a spring does. Increasing or decreasing the preload changes the way the bar will feel. Put more preload on it, and it is stiffer all the time. Take preload out, and it feels softer. I am sure Bio can probably agree with me on that one. As far as suspension geometry goes, it should not make that much difference. When you drop the car much, if you want to truly do it correctly, you would have to go far deeper than even vinnie's spacers and/or shorter dogbones. You would have to shim the whole body to truly make it "correct". But who does that? Not saying the way everyone has been doing it forever does not work, just that there are a million different things that can change the feel of the handling and suspension, and this is just one.
 


^^^there is a guy on CGP who found some longer ball joints for the control arms to put them back in the correct geometry as well.
 
Yupp that's my thread. I got shorter end links and never looked back

How would the springs effect the steering when it's attached to the cradle? Like the tie rod ends?
 
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