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ricksgpgtcolleen

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I'm trying to get goin on initial research on swapping my open diff from my RWD L36 to a LSD. Anyone out there know what they're talking about with rear ends?
 


Ya know how the Slomaro comes with the open diff? I want to swap in a limited slip. My rear end is a 10-bolt. Are LSDs 10 or 12 bolts? Are LSDs only 12? Are they only 10? How resilient are they? I want to try and grab one out of a Z28, SS, T/A, or WS6 in the junkyard, but if they're finicky as the 4T65E, forget it. If they're bullet-proof like the T56, okay, I'll go junked. What else should I be buying for this swap?

I have feelers out in three of the GP sites and also in LS1Tech. I've looked in the shop manuals, but that's not netted me anything. Search results were so unreliable that I'm left with asking for info. This comes not by a lack of trying to find the information. Thank you very much for your response.
 
The Posi units from a stock V8 model should work just fine and are also 10 bolt IIRC. At the power levels you are seeing from the V6 you won't be breaking it. Most guys I've read about breaking the stock 10 bolts are pushing at least 360-400HP to them. Look around for someone with a V8 powered car looking to sell their stock Posi 10 bolt and you should be able to grab it for a decent price. Most of those guys end up with the 12 bolt or a custom from Moser or another high end company. Just be sure that the spline count is the same or you may have to swap axles. Can't remember if they have 28 or 30 on those stock.

If you can score a cheap 12 bolt posi unit then by all means go for it.
 
What are your plans for the car, driving habits? bc they make Auburn and Torsen diffs

personally i think you will be fine with a 10 bolt, as long as you get one that is in good shape, no leaks, no noises
 


My plans are to pretty much build a L36 from ground up to push out 400whp and roughly that much torque. If I don't get that after all is said and done, that's the power she's gonna make. I want a T56 and an LSD. I already have a full suspension from Strano with the exception of a Watts Link and a decoupled torque arm. This build will not be easy, it will not be quick, and it sure won't be cheap, either. This is a tribute build for my brother.

After the build will I be using it as a canyon-carving sleeper. As is, I LOVE spirited driving and am quite aggressive while driving.

I'll try to get better pics after cleaning the both of them.

I thank the both of you for your input. I'll be pulling up Thorsen and Auburn here in just a few minutes and also searching Summit for 28 and 30 spline options. Sounds like I might have to start thinking about snagging a 12-bolt from the junkyard and rebuilding that so I can be confident in putting my target to the ground, if I even get those numbers.
 
If you plan on 400hp the 10 bolt option will be iffy, especially if you drive hard with a t56 and grab traction (puts a lot of abuse on them)

Building a 10 bolt is not worth it so dont let anyone talk you into that, and yes grab a 12 if you can even if you build it slowly.

And I am going to be the jackass and ask why your building up the L36?
 
lsxftw said:
And I am going to be the jackass and ask why your building up the L36?
Click to expand...

Better yet, how are you going to get 400 WHP out of it?

I really don't understand this thread at all.

You can put a limited slip of some kind in any rear end. You pick the carrier based on your budget and goals. Then you buy new axles and differential. You pick the type of unit you want such as a "posi", locker or torsen. There are pros and cons to each type, you'll want to do research into and decide what's best for you.

Then you'll want to pick a gear ratio.

Spirited driving isn't what kills the rear end. Hook does. If you're not going to hook, you're not going to stress those components that much. But bang shifting will also aggravate the rear end as well. If you're playing canyon carver, you'll likely leave it in third and just use power.

Posi has clutches, they slip and wear out. So it works for a while, then you need to rebuild it.

Locker locks completely, won't help in corners, if anything the inner wheel might hop because it needs to turn slower than the outside wheel.

A torsen multiplies torque, more simply, it allows variable slip while still applying as much torque as possible. Since it multiplies torque, when traction is lost, there is no output. Sounds bad, and it can be if you don't know what to expect. But any RWD vehicle with power being applied around a corner can be.
 
lsxftw said:
And I am going to be the jackass and ask why your building up the L36?
Click to expand...

Back in Savannah in 2000, I met this dude. After a few years of us crying on each other shoulders about s* we saw Out There (overseas) and other such bone shattering failures, we became brothers. Somewhere along the way, he bought a L36 M49 98 Camaro, dark blue metallic with grey cloth interior. He was building it up to get what he could easily get. He lost it in the divorce. A few years later, I find this one on the side of the road at a buy-here/pay-here for $2500. I traded my 85 Firebird with the 4-spd and 2.8L and a set of good 15-spoke T/A rims for that thing. I ended up having to pay $1500 for this Camaro. It was rough, but still in great shape so I intended on cleaning it up and giving it to my brother. He was dealing with a LOT of bad s* and deemed himself unfit to expose my kids to, so he took a vacation from us until he could dial himself in. I learned in Feb 10 that he was killed in a motorcycle wreck back in Nov 09. I was set to deploy to Kandahar in Mar 10. In his honor, I'm getting irrational and impossible power out of an engine that's not highly regarded at all for power. It's what he would have done if he wasn't working on a Galaxie 500 at the same time. One-off firing order, one-off head designs, one-off intake...all the s* that makes me sound stupid, insane, immature, unrealistic. That's the thing about most civilian car folks, though: They can't understand the fraternity that service can bring. I had the intent of building this and giving it to his father, but he took my brother's ashes and disappeared. Now, I can only build this car how WE would've built it, keep Stitch in the forward cup holder, and keep the loving memory of him alive for me, my wife, and my daughter. Too bad that my son has no idea who this guy was and that my brother never did meet my son.

Requiescat in pace, frater.
 
matt5112 said:
Better yet, how are you going to get 400 WHP out of it?...I really don't understand this thread at all...
Click to expand...

Lots of engine explosions as I push the displacement limits and compression thresholds and timing particulars until I find what works. I really dgaf if you understand or not, this is what I want to do, this is my money, this is the memory of the only man aside from my own dad that I've said "I love you" to, and if I don't get 400whp and 450wtq, fine. At least I pushed this 4.3L L36 to its absolute streetable ragged edge and made it work.

HOWEVER, that information was quite useful and am ever grateful for your constructive input. Please keep it coming.
 


I know some guys running around Houston that did much of the work you are talking about to their v6 camaros. They would hang with a stock Z28 / TA and put comparable power to the wheels. I never saw one near the 400hp mark until they started throwing turbo's on them. Maybe a ton has changed in regards to the technology, but I doubt you will see that kind of power to the wheels out of that motor unless it is forced induction of some sort.

My advice would be to find a 10 bolt setup with the traction device and gearing you want and use it until it blows. If you come across a great deal for a 12 bolt or 9 inch that will bolt in, go for it. I wouldn't spend a bunch of extra $$$ until you actually have the power and / or break the 10 bolt. lsxftw makes a very good point other people may not distinguish. Having a stick means the 10 bolt will not hold up as well compared to the same power levels with an automatic because of the shock loading that takes place. Keep that in mind when people give you advice / feedback. They may be referring to a car they knew of that was running an auto.
 
LeadfootCJ7 said:
I know some guys running around Houston that did much of the work you are talking about to their v6 camaros. They would hang with a stock Z28 / TA and put comparable power to the wheels. I never saw one near the 400hp mark until they started throwing turbo's on them. Maybe a ton has changed in regards to the technology, but I doubt you will see that kind of power to the wheels out of that motor unless it is forced induction of some sort.
Click to expand...

This is what I'm getting at.

The easiest way to do that is a turbo. An M90 build pushing that much will have much more money in it.

The last time I checked the current record for a NA L36 was ~270 WHP, but that didn't have an accessory belt on it. Put one back on, and you'll be around were wes blair was, 240-250 WHP IIRC. That was however for a stock bore, stock crank.

You mentioned different firing order, so I presume you're having a new one off crank ground? The existing stroker crank won't work for that. Now I'm curious, who's making the crank for you?
 


Also if you keep your gearing to 3.42 or 3.23 it will be a hell of a lot stronger then 3.73 or 4.10s in the 10 bolt
 
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