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AC blockage?

A

aeidian

New member
99 gtp

Awhile back I replaced the compressor and the condensor on the car but didn't do the dryer or expansion valve. I vacuumed it down and recharged the system to specs with my manifold gauge and its worked fine for a month. The past couple days its taken a really long time to cool down. Im getting acuator short/open codes on both RH and LH. I pulled the driver acuator and it was all the way on cold before I pulled it. I put the manifold gauges on to check and now I have like 90 on the low side and 100 on the high side. The compressor is still running though. You guys think the dryer and expansion valve is plugging up? I'm gonna go ahead and replace them tomorrow.

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dsmuts said:
Orifice tube could be plugged
Click to expand...

I'm hoping its that simple. Is there any reason I can't just leave the actuators off so the blend door stays on cold? Those are pricey little bastards.

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Changed out the orfice tube and accumulator today. What a *****. I followed the guide at clubgp with the exception of the brake booster. I disconnected the lines from the firewall and pulled the orfice tube line out a bit so I could break it loose. Had to disconnect it from the condenser to. I slightly crossthreaded the line to the condenser when I reassembled but I didn't have any leaks on the vacuum check. I recharged the system with a can of pag oil and 2.5 cans of 134a. Blowing 40 degrees with outside temp of 85-90 and the manifold gauges looked right.

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I'm still having issues. I've got a leak somewhere, and it's not coming from that condenser union. I took everything back apart that I put together and put new seals on everything. I bought a tap and die to chase the threads on that condenser union but when I took it apart the threads were fine. I replaced the seals on the condenser, the two on the dryer, and the two on the firewall. I've put about 1/4th bottle of pag oil with uv dye in the system via the dryer and the high side port (I put a new high side port on too) but I cant find a uv leak anywhere on any joint or the compressor. Where else could it be coming from?

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Last edited:
I did when I replaced the compressor months ago. I'm not seeing any uv leaks on it.

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Are there any leak points on this side of the fire wall? Like under the dash?

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As fast as this is going through freon you'd think my engine bay would glow in the dark, but I just don't see a leak anywhere. I've put soapy water on all the unions I can see, but no bubbles. I'm about at the point I want to pull every damn ac line and device out of the engine bay and look it over.

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Didn't see any green under the dash, but while flushing my power steering I noticed this:
















When I shine the blacklight on it I don't see any green. It's possible I dripped something on that a couple days ago when I was filling the radiator, but if it was water I'd think it would be dry by now. What is that bolt right there? Is there a seal behind it?
 
spray it with brake cleaner to clean it up, then se if it comes back in a few days.

if you make the bolt tighter, only do so by a 1/8 of a turn, very little bit, if it moves at all, or if theres a seal it will be shot for sure.
 


not a clue, but it looks to be a leak.

the pressure sensor used to leak in my last truck, id find a oily mess around it, clean it make it a bit tighter and it was all good.

but it clearly had a O ring under it. cant see one really in your pic, it could be a flat seal. like a washer.
 
I still think it would show up green if it was a leak from the compressor. I'll spray it with brake cleaner and check it in a couple days.

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it looks to have a green tainting to the side of the leak area.

right by the wires there.
IMG_20130719_142216_zps1f113d22.jpg
 
Sprayed it with brake cleaner and whatever it was instantly disappeared. The bolt also took an 1/8th of a turn. Let's see how it does.
 
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