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ABS & TCS light

M

mrfreez

New member
I changed both front wheel bearings. What else should I check besides the fuse and connectors?

I have a 2000 GTP. Just wondering if there's anything else I need to look at; that these cars might be known for.
 


having the codes read would help. did you put GM parts back on? sometimes the cars don't like the aftermarket hubs/bearings; the gap on the wheel speed sensor isn't the same and it can't get a good reading. are all your tires the same size?
 
The rear bearings don't have any play or sound from them. Sometimes the ABS light doesn't come on and sometimes it does, weird. The bearings I replaced them with are NAPA bearings. I've used them on other cars and they work good. I did change tire size however. I went from a 215/60/16 to a 225/55/16. Swapped the winter for summer tires. But, the ABS light was on with the winter tires too.
 
check your sensor wire harness, and the plugs, clean them up put a dab of di electrical grease on them and see if that helps, all 4 hubs.
 
could be because the size you have on aren't OEM specs. have the codes read and it should be an easy diagnosis
 


I'll check the plugs tonight. I had an Aurora that had this problem and had to change one of the front ABS connectors.
 
As long as all 4 tires are the same size, you are fine.

very likely it's a bad connection in the harness leading to the sensors. If you scanned the car with one capable of reading BXXX codes, you would know which side to look at.
 
I went thru similar. When I bought my 03 GTP it had ABS/TSC lights on (and still does). I took it to a GM dealer and paid to have my PCM tested and reflashed w/ latest program, $125. They told me PCM tested good, but i had play in Fr Lt hub. So I changed it. Did not fix ABS/TCS. So I put in new Fr Rt hub, what the heck. Did not fix ABS/TCS. So I changed both Rr hubs, did not fix ABS/TCS. Took it back to GM dealer and paid another $125 to have "ABS system diagnosed". They told me "right rear hub reads 0, recommend replace, $826", but they did not give me any codes. So I replaced Rt Rr hub-AGAIN. Still no ABS/TCS. By now I was p-o'd. After countless hours reading, researching, testing, retesting, finally took it back to GM dealer. This time I told them I need ALL the codes in writing, they tried to charge me another $125 and I about blow up, talked to a manager, and the did it for free, but kept it 48hrs. This time they gave me C0244 and C0550 codes, replace EBCM, $1867. A-holes.

If your EBCM is bad, which is a documented issue, nothing you do outside of fixing EBCM will work. BTW, EBCM can be rebuilt with a warrenty for couple hundred dollars.

From my experience, I recommend;

1. Stop paying $ for parts that may or may not be bad.
2. Find a reputable (good luck) shop with a Tech II scan tool, and get ALL your codes in writing--ie, Pxxx, Cxxx, Uxxx, Bxxx---MOST scan tools will NOT read our ABS ('C') codes.
3. Make arrangements with shop up front for a follow up to have a 2nd scan, to clear codes--because it is possible ot fix issue but computer may store trouble code, or if you replace your EBCM you may need to have it programmed for your PCM.
4. Stay away from cheapy parts, sucks to have to do this stuff twice.

From my research, about 400 different things can cause ABS/TCS issues--too many for me to think about. The bearings can be good, and speed sensor can be bad, and vice versa. But if it is incremental issue, I would start with electrical, esp wiring harnesses and EBCM itself.

Again, Good Luck.
 
Thanks for the insight! I found out tonight that both my front calipers are sticking bad so I'm putting 2 new calipers on tomorrow. I doubt that will fix the ABS light, but I need the calipers nonetheless.

I haven't had the car scanned because my scanner only reads engine codes. To get it scanned costs me $80.00. I put it up on the hoist tonight and checked all 4 connectors. No signs of corrosion. I put some die electric grease on the connectors anyways. The rear wheel bearings have no play, grinding and rotate just fine. The front wheel hubs were replaced. So, after I get the calipers on I'll disconnect the battery for 30mins to reset the PCM and BCM. If the light comes back on then I'll have to get it scanned.

I had this problem with a 2001 aurora I owned. I had to replace the ABS connector and wire. It fixed the problem. I'm guessing it's a bad connector, but I hate paying to have it scanned! Grrrrr!
 
shouldn't need anything for the pcm as all of the inputs to it are from the ebcm and related sensors. other than that, i agree with what you posted.

OP, any codes yet?

edit: disregard. you posted before me by about 10 seconds.
 


Ya, I hear you, sucks that we have to pay shop just to scan. But for me, it sucks even more to buy and replace hubs, and still have problem, then have to pay shop anyway.
 
Well, my wheel hubs needed to be replaced anyways. I get a pretty good discount ($74.00 per hub) and I do the work myself. I put the new calipers on and started the car with no ABS light! The minute I turned my wheels the light came back on. At least I've pinpointed it to the front wheels!
 
mrfreez said:
Well, my wheel hubs needed to be replaced anyways. I get a pretty good discount ($74.00 per hub) and I do the work myself. I put the new calipers on and started the car with no ABS light! The minute I turned my wheels the light came back on. At least I've pinpointed it to the front wheels!
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double check your sensor harness, or if the plugs are dirty. when you turn the wheels the wires move a bit.
 
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