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ABS light and TC Off light On : (

AmericanRiceEater

AmericanRiceEater

New member
Hey it's really not a big issue but i figured i might take some advice from our wonderful online community. My ABS light and traction control off light turn on simultaneously here and there. My e-brake is completely shot. I was curious if that's why those lights turn on ? Or does that not sound like it would have a relation ? I may just be doubting my assumption but what ever. Open to your ideas.
 


My car has the ABS on and the Trac light on + the check tire pressure light. My tires are at their correct pressure so its just goofed up.

on the other hand, I don't need the ABS.. But thats just me :)
 
GrandPrixSE said:
My car has the ABS on and the Trac light on + the check tire pressure light. My tires are at their correct pressure so its just goofed up.

on the other hand, I don't need the ABS.. But thats just me :)
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My GP did that...wheel bearings on R front was the culprit for me.
 
I have a 2001 GTP, and the ABS sensor on the right front wheel hub was the problem. Apparantly it's somewhat common, you can do a search on here and there are a few threads about it. It's an easy check if you can get under the car, look at the wires leading to your hubs from the harness behind your tires, and if they look ate up, that's your problem. Bad news is you can't replace the sensor without replacing the whole hub. Also the bearings going in the hub are pretty common and will cause the same light, you can check that by listening for a grinding noise while driving or jacking the car up, and pulling on the top and bottom of your tire, if it has any play back 'n forth its probably a bad hub bearing.
 
I have bad wheel bearings and my abs light and trac off light is on. Replace the hubs, and you should be good.
 


My wife's 97 Grand Prix is doing the same thing. ABS light & TRAC light on. The only thing is that when the brakes are applied, the lights go off. I replaced the front hub assemblies back in March and everything has been fine since.
The brake fluid level is OK, so I will check the ABS sensors in the rear and see what I find. The brakes work fine except for ABS light & TRAC lights comming on until you apply the brakes.The lights remain off until the next time they decide to come on. I expect to be replacing the rear ABS sensors.
I don't understand why the lights go out when the brakes are applied.
ANy advice would be appreciated.
 
when i had this problem in my car a couple months back. we couldnt figure it out for the life of us. finally my dads buddy happened to look at my brake fluid level and that was it, the little bottle was empty, but my brakes still worked good. so just cause your brakes are working good dont mean theres enough fluid. double check and see if it went down any.
 
CMURDAx said:
when i had this problem in my car a couple months back. we couldnt figure it out for the life of us. finally my dads buddy happened to look at my brake fluid level and that was it, the little bottle was empty, but my brakes still worked good. so just cause your brakes are working good dont mean theres enough fluid. double check and see if it went down any.
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I will check the fluid level again. Maybe I might add just a little. If that doesn't work, then I'll pull the tires off and check the connectors on the rear ABS sensors.
Thanks for the info.
 
common problem. i replaced my front 2 hubs because there was a lot of bearing "play" but my light is still on. local mechanic checked it with the abs scanner and told me it was the whole module.. in that case its not worth ll that money
 


no thats the secret.......

if your abs light is on. it can be on for a # of reasons, most common is a hub. then come bad wires.

you can jack up your car at each wheel and see if the hub is tight by trying to wiggle the wheel at the top, grab the threads and push pull, but softly, if it moves that hub could be bad, also take the plug off dab some di electric grease on the plug ends, put them on, take them off put back on, to work the grease in, while you are there check the wires for damage along the lca's. same goes for the rear hubs, same tests.

if all of your hubs feel tight (wiggle test) and your wires look ok, then its best to go get it scanned at a garage, yes they will charge you, but its better than throwing money at $130 hubs and it not being what wrong.

dont know what year your car is, but the newer cars seem to let the free scanner at auto zone read abs codes. they wont have the info for the code at auto zone but can and will give the code to you and you can look up the code on line.
 
yup, you can pay less but you get what you pay for. its not a job you want to do again in 6 months.

duralast hubs were like 80 bucks with a 1 year warranty.

go to all the auto parts web sites, most have prices for your area code. or order off line, with discount codes.

first you need to find out whats wrong with it.
 


Okay thanks for your help ill check it out as soon as I get it back from the shop(
Got trans work done and they replaced the sway bar that couldn't have been the problem could it?
 
Haha ya and before I was able to wiggle the whole wheel and would see the top of strut move can't seem to think of the word.. don't really know what exactly that was(if u can't tell I don't know much about suspension and that stuff lol
 
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