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A little wheel wiggle

Buggsy

Buggsy

New member
Hi all.
I've noticed an noise increasing in volume over the last few weeks. I suspected it was a wheel bearing as I've heard this noise before. I jacked the car up and gave it a little wiggle and found that the left front tire had some movement and a small clunk on the top/bottom wiggle. Not as much, but still some movement on the left/right wiggle. I had my wife shake the tire while I put my hand on the tierod and ball joints and the axle to be sure it wasn't one of these. I was all set to order a new hub/bearing when I just had a thought. There is no upper ball joint, but I think there is a bearing plate on top of the strut. Before I jack the car up again, is there anything I should watch for in that regard? The noise was a rotational, speed-based sound that reminds me of bad wheel bearings, but before I plunk down $100 for a moog hub I just like to find a second opinion.

It's a 2004 GT, mostly original suspension. Some of these hubs were replaced under warranty 100K miles ago, but it's possible this one has 150K on it.

Thanks.
 


jack the wheel up again then push pull the top of the tire, but this time watch the rotor. if its moving inside the caliper the hub is bad.
 
I'm putting money on bad bearing with top/bottom movement, you should try Timkin hubs, cheaper and lots of people here use them and had good luck with them. If your tie rod ends are stock might as well throw new ones on the list even more so if you are getting left/right movement.
 
Detroit Axles are good hubs.. was skeptical at first but I am very pleased with them.. they are solid hubs and beefy
 
$76 for 2 bearings and tie rods!

You get what you pay for! I'd be afraid to go over 65 mph on them. If timken wanted there name associated with them they would put timken on them. They are just importing cheap cheap Chinese parts and cashing in on people willing to replace them multiple times to save a buck.
 
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Scottydoggs said:
jack the wheel up again then push pull the top of the tire, but this time watch the rotor. if its moving inside the caliper the hub is bad.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea, thanks. I did feel the rotor to make sure it was moving with the rim but didn't think of the caliper.

As for the cost, I'm not worried about the $100 just about wasting it if the hub isn't. My problem. I might check out Timken if it's locally available. I order parts here and there but I really like the safety net of having a local place to return to if something isn't right.
 
Well I would do the Hubs anyway if you have extra money laying around, at least from what I can gather its not if it goes bad but when.
 
lewis1952 said:
Detroit
Click to expand...

Just because the company is located in Detroit does not mean the parts are made in Detroit. They are a DISTRIBUTER, which means they sell parts made elsewhere.

Read reviews online about Detroit Axle. There are several that fail within 10k miles.
 
If you want to spend money for a name go ahead I was just giving the another option. All parts made and distributed in the US have to meet SASE standards. Detroit Axle has been around 70 yrs. My god do what ya want. Some people would b#$ch if they were hung with a new rope.
 


I have GMB bearings now 32 bucks a piece off amazon there quieter than timkens ever were. And came with new bolts and harness clips.

I'm over the whole USA but really made in China crap. Its all the same now and days might as well save some money.
 
Honest I don't make wheel bearings for a living. The good ones are still coming from low cost suppliers it just that Timken/Moog/SKF are guaranteeing the quality is there. They back it up with a 3 year warranty.
 


I ran cheap bearings one time. Bought them from ZZP, and replaced right twice and left once. ZZP sells them with 30 or 90 day warranty now not a year. I made the mistake of changing both sides at once.

I've owned Bonneville's for 10 years now. Timken's have never failed.
 
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I've come to trust Moog (made in Korea) for quality. It's not that I have $100 to burn, but that I don't take a chance on suspension parts. For example, I just had to replace a wheel bearing on my truck. I assume it was a factory wheel bearing. I heard a small intermittent noise, but didn't give it much though for a while. After a few days of driving it, the noise suddenly was louder, and more prominent. I jacked the truck up and wiggled a wheel just like my car. I could not believe the play I had in that bearing. It was about 2 inches at the outer edges of the tires. Much more damage than that, and the bearing could have just separated and come apart. If that happened at 70 MPH... I just don't play with that risk. I'll use a generic relay, I'll take the cheaper water pump, but not the safety critical part.

Thanks again for the tip Scottydogs, that was very definitive. I suck my finger tip between the rotor and the caliper and wiggled the tire up/down, and could plainly feel the rotor moving independent of the knuckle.

Side question. Does anyone happen to know the hub nut size and torque specs?
 
stock is a 34 mm, new axles come with a 36 mm nut. tq is 118.

if you dont have a 34 mm but have a 36 mm, the 36 will work on the 34 mm nut. been there done that. i find it best to put the spare tire on use like 2 lugs, then lower the wheel to the ground, then break the axle nut free.

if you have f body brakes you need to take the brakes off first to get the spare on, but they need to come off any ways so no big deal really.
 
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