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A/C comp deleted, now I want ot replace it.

T

toof

New member
There's a pulley in place of the A/C compressor on this car and I want functional A/C. Only the compressor was removed. The hoses are laying unplugged in place and the dryer is still connected in the system.

Assuming the worst, that the compressor released metal into the system, should the condenser and hoses be replaced when addressing this sort of issue? Not sure what happens when metal enters the system.

Obviously the comp, dryer and orifice tube need replacement. I'd feel better getting replacement hoses from a parts house like Autozone/Rock Auto to be safe.

So far: trans mount, motor mount, CV shaft, power steering hose, head light capsules. Needs a tie rod, possibly a rack.
 


toof said:
Obviously the comp, dryer and orifice tube need replacement. I'd feel better getting replacement hoses from a parts house like Autozone/Rock Auto to be safe.
Click to expand...

your on track there. ^^^ you can just fill it with them re charge cans, or maybe in the end have a shop doit, cause they will vac test it for leaks before filling it, then fill it properly for you.

it will of course be much cheaper if you install all the new a/c parts yourself, shops like to charge a arm and a leg for a/c work.
 
Got a vacuum pump in hand. Usually rent gauges from Autozone and just do it myself. Just not sure what happens IF metal gets in the system from a grenaded comp. That probably didn't happen, but possible.

Last car I did, shops wanted 1400-1500 to replace comp/condenser/exp bulb. Cost me about $400 and a weekend. A/C still working.
 
if the compressor took a massive crap theres a 100% chance of metal clogging up the dryer and orifice tube. why you should always change them when you do a compressor. or the new compressor can die rather quick if the metal gets back to it.

having that vac pump is king! your a step ahead of most already.


the shop prices for a/c work are sometimes more than what you paid for the damn car sometimes. kinda sucks.
 


An open A/C system is a contaminated system. Depending on how long it has been open, you may need to replace most of the components.
 
^^This^^ As long as you replace these parts and it holds a vac. for 30 min. or so you should be good. Been doing A/C this way forever and never had an issue.
 


You can use Varsol or just about any solvent that isn't too harsh. Just blowing air will not get particles out of the oils that are still in the system.

Jeff
 
I'll try that link on a better computer. This one face planted that link. :)

Would Mineral Spirits be considered mild enough?

TIA.
 


I cant remember where the O tube is, If its like the intrigue its up under the brake res somewhere. Pull it and see if there's any junk in it. If the system has been open a long time I would just change everything and only flush the evaporator ( would be nice to change that too but who wants to pull the dash? and its much smaller than the condenser so it will clean up better). Theres ac mineral spirit flush kits you can buy.

When you say you have a vacuum pump I hope its not one of the air operated ones? If so those aren't really that good at pulling moisture out of the system. Yes it will work but the a/c as a whole will not last as long as doing it the proper way. Most PAG oils used in a lot of todays cars reacts with moisture and produces an acid that destroys the a/c system.

Depending on what you decide to change, make sure you replace the high/low valves. You may check the system for a vacuum leak but you most of the time you have gauges connected so the shraeders condition goes untested until after your done.

and compressor failure in the a/c industry we call it "black death". You can find a lot of information on google search with this term.
 
I use air powered vacuum pumps and have never had a problem with them, then again I have an air drier also (have to living in Houston). Is that the reason you have against using an air powered one?

Jeff
 
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