99 Regal GS Build
- Thread starter dtrombley
- Start date
CrazyGuy03
New member
Looks good - I'm heading my way back to the rear of my regal. Afraid to see what kind of rusty suprises I will encounter. My ebrake cable snapped last year. And I need all new bars with polys as wellOne day. Maybe next year. But again, build looks great so far !
BillBoost37
New member
Ricky.. go 04+ calipers and the 04+ brake cables from middle to caliper.
CrazyGuy03
New member
I will def look into that So does my rotor or anything else have to change? Or could I just leave the old PB assembly there and use the new parts ?
REDCOMPG - Haha I'm still here.. I'm probably just the slowest build ever :th_shakinghead2:
RickyBobby03 - Well if your rear end is as rusty as mine was, don't be surprised if a couple of bolts snap off in the body.. actually it wouldn't be a bad idea to just soak all the nuts and bolts back in there in wd40/pb blaster like once a week so you don't have to deal with that ****. And I'm sure bill will correct me if I'm wrong, but i think you will have to change over the rotor and take out the old parking brake assembly.
RickyBobby03 - Well if your rear end is as rusty as mine was, don't be surprised if a couple of bolts snap off in the body.. actually it wouldn't be a bad idea to just soak all the nuts and bolts back in there in wd40/pb blaster like once a week so you don't have to deal with that ****. And I'm sure bill will correct me if I'm wrong, but i think you will have to change over the rotor and take out the old parking brake assembly.
CrazyGuy03
New member
Yeah rust scares me. I like what you been using. I'm laying down $$ for that por-15 stuff
the cable snapped. Was tbinking of being cheap and using a cable clamp for now lol.
Its only used for burnouts anyways
the cable snapped. Was tbinking of being cheap and using a cable clamp for now lol.
Its only used for burnouts anyways
Haha as long as it works, I say go for it.
I would definitely use por-15; since even though i spent like 3 whole days just grinding the underbody, and then wiping with acetone, and then doing 4 or 5 coats of undercoating, a few of the corners that were tougher to get to with a grinder now have a little bit of rust starting to poke through again. :th_depressed:
I would definitely use por-15; since even though i spent like 3 whole days just grinding the underbody, and then wiping with acetone, and then doing 4 or 5 coats of undercoating, a few of the corners that were tougher to get to with a grinder now have a little bit of rust starting to poke through again. :th_depressed:
CrazyGuy03
New member
Yeah. I got the smaller craft-sized foam paint rollers from Home Depot worked pretty well. Sucks working under the car. That por15 does NOT come off skin
Alright guys so I got a question..
I'm not at the point of starting yet, but I found a problem while testing ignition power. With just the battery cable hooked up to the fuse box, all ignition power is good and turns on the way its supposed to. But here's where it gets weird: when i hook up the racetronix fuel pump rewire power cable to the fusebox, it's like I'm bypassing the ignition completely and everything stays on, even with the keys out.
Also, the fuel pump still turns on with the rewire power cable disconnected. I was under the impression that since I didn't even connect the fuel pump resistor, there would be no power at all to it until I connected the power cable on the rewire??
Any thoughts??
I'm not at the point of starting yet, but I found a problem while testing ignition power. With just the battery cable hooked up to the fuse box, all ignition power is good and turns on the way its supposed to. But here's where it gets weird: when i hook up the racetronix fuel pump rewire power cable to the fusebox, it's like I'm bypassing the ignition completely and everything stays on, even with the keys out.
Also, the fuel pump still turns on with the rewire power cable disconnected. I was under the impression that since I didn't even connect the fuel pump resistor, there would be no power at all to it until I connected the power cable on the rewire??
Any thoughts??
BillBoost37
New member
Sounds like something is backfeeding. Not sure how that's possible though.
BillBoost37
New member
If you hooked up it's main power to the top of the relay center stud. And grounded it properly, then you have the trigger that most people put to a single wire...
There's really nothing else to it..
There's really nothing else to it..
Wait, trigger wire?
I took the ground cable from the relay and grounded it to the body, hooked up the connections at the fuel pump, secured the relay to the body, and took the main power wire with the eyelet and ran it to the stud on top of the fuse box (which is where I ran my positive battery cable too since I relocated the battery to the trunk).
There were no other connections to hook up that I saw...
I took the ground cable from the relay and grounded it to the body, hooked up the connections at the fuel pump, secured the relay to the body, and took the main power wire with the eyelet and ran it to the stud on top of the fuse box (which is where I ran my positive battery cable too since I relocated the battery to the trunk).
There were no other connections to hook up that I saw...
Wait, trigger wire?
I took the ground cable from the relay and grounded it to the body, hooked up the connections at the fuel pump, secured the relay to the body, and took the main power wire with the eyelet and ran it to the stud on top of the fuse box (which is where I ran my positive battery cable too since I relocated the battery to the trunk).
There were no other connections to hook up that I saw...
I took the ground cable from the relay and grounded it to the body, hooked up the connections at the fuel pump, secured the relay to the body, and took the main power wire with the eyelet and ran it to the stud on top of the fuse box (which is where I ran my positive battery cable too since I relocated the battery to the trunk).
There were no other connections to hook up that I saw...
So.. somehow, the fuel pump/ignition problem fixed itself. As in, I was having the problem, unhooked the power wire for the fuel pump and then let it sit overnight. Came back the next night, and BAM! ignition and fuel pump work like they should. :th_scratchhead:
Oh well, I'm not gonna complain I guess. More pics to come later on.
Oh well, I'm not gonna complain I guess. More pics to come later on.
More pics.
Passenger side with fender located
Driver side, no fender on yet.
Top view of the engine compartment, finally all in and bolted up.
All thats left to do is mock up the intercooler pump/lines/coolant reservoir, mock up the oil filter bypass/relocate, and a couple random things like get a filter on the intake, plug in the spark plug wires, bleed the brakes, bleed the coolant system, bleed the power steering system... thats about all i can think of.
Unfortuanately, I leave for Germany this weekend, and before then I need to pack up all my stuff and move it out of the house I'm in right now. So as of right now, it's looking like this thing won't get finished until I get back in January.
Passenger side with fender located
Driver side, no fender on yet.
Top view of the engine compartment, finally all in and bolted up.
All thats left to do is mock up the intercooler pump/lines/coolant reservoir, mock up the oil filter bypass/relocate, and a couple random things like get a filter on the intake, plug in the spark plug wires, bleed the brakes, bleed the coolant system, bleed the power steering system... thats about all i can think of.
Unfortuanately, I leave for Germany this weekend, and before then I need to pack up all my stuff and move it out of the house I'm in right now. So as of right now, it's looking like this thing won't get finished until I get back in January.
I'm back!!
Sorry for the huge lag in updates, haven't had too much time to work on it until these past couple weeks and we've been trying to tie it up so I haven't been posting any updates.
Everything's all tied in as far as lines go, and fluids are all filled. We were filling all the fluids, and went to check the oil level... and we're searching, and searching, and somehow we forgot to put the dipstick and tube back in! So after we looked around the garage for an hour we concluded that some little green men had snuck in at some point and stole it, so we just ordered another one. :th_laugh-lol3:
The one thing I'm still missing is the electrical connector for the bosch pump, but thats on order and should be spliced in this weekend. Here's a picture, pre-dipstick lol.
Well that was all last week. Yesterday, I got out there put the new dipstick in, drained the oil to make sure nothing was floating around in there from the dipstick hole being open this whole time, and filled it back up so we could finally hear that engine start up. Go to crank it, and the starter won't turn over. Double checked all the wires and **** and decide to just run a jumper wire to the starter to get some oil primed through the engine. After that, we decided to try and start it while jumping the starter, so I put the fuel pump fuse back in and go for it, and nothing!
So we sit back and scratch our heads for a little bit, until I remember.. the security relearn! Do that, wait 40ish minutes :th_beer-slam:and now it turns over with the key! But still no start
It sounded like it wanted to fire up a couple times, but no luck. I've got spark on 1,3, and 5; and I've got 50psi at the fuel rail. Plugs are wet, and the exhaust smells like gas so it's definitely getting fuel. My next step is to get a compression tester and see what that looks like.
Maybe it was just flooded from how much we were cranking it before the security relearn? IDK, I plan to give it another shot after the compression test and see what happens. If compressions good and it still doesn't start after it's dried out... then I have no idea what to do after that. :th_scratchhead:
Y'all got any suggestions??
Sorry for the huge lag in updates, haven't had too much time to work on it until these past couple weeks and we've been trying to tie it up so I haven't been posting any updates.
Everything's all tied in as far as lines go, and fluids are all filled. We were filling all the fluids, and went to check the oil level... and we're searching, and searching, and somehow we forgot to put the dipstick and tube back in! So after we looked around the garage for an hour we concluded that some little green men had snuck in at some point and stole it, so we just ordered another one. :th_laugh-lol3:
The one thing I'm still missing is the electrical connector for the bosch pump, but thats on order and should be spliced in this weekend. Here's a picture, pre-dipstick lol.
Well that was all last week. Yesterday, I got out there put the new dipstick in, drained the oil to make sure nothing was floating around in there from the dipstick hole being open this whole time, and filled it back up so we could finally hear that engine start up. Go to crank it, and the starter won't turn over. Double checked all the wires and **** and decide to just run a jumper wire to the starter to get some oil primed through the engine. After that, we decided to try and start it while jumping the starter, so I put the fuel pump fuse back in and go for it, and nothing!
So we sit back and scratch our heads for a little bit, until I remember.. the security relearn! Do that, wait 40ish minutes :th_beer-slam:and now it turns over with the key! But still no start
It sounded like it wanted to fire up a couple times, but no luck. I've got spark on 1,3, and 5; and I've got 50psi at the fuel rail. Plugs are wet, and the exhaust smells like gas so it's definitely getting fuel. My next step is to get a compression tester and see what that looks like. Maybe it was just flooded from how much we were cranking it before the security relearn? IDK, I plan to give it another shot after the compression test and see what happens. If compressions good and it still doesn't start after it's dried out... then I have no idea what to do after that. :th_scratchhead:
Y'all got any suggestions??