'97 Wheel bearings & brakes & rotor questions

[Scottydoggs]

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/106488-Here-is-a-way-to-stick-it-to-Photobucket we found a fix for photo buckets bull sh1t.

and best way is to drop the rear of the sub frame 2-3 inches, then unbolt the bushing caps and spin the bar out. sadly this time you need to use the rockers to hold it up, the put a jack under the middle rear fot the frame and just lift it till its touching, then back the bolts out as far as they will go before coming out, then lower the jack to the bolts but not hanging on them.

you want a dorman 33 mm solid bar, they run anywhere from 65 to 140 on line shipped, you'll need to search around for the cheapest one.

pic of the frame dropped. rack is removed why its 6 inches low. you cant go that far with out breaking the steering shaft from the rack to the column.

 

[CHI2000GTP]

The setup below worked for me. The jackstands are on the subframe in the first pic. But, in the last pic with the fuel lines, you can see the head of the jackstand just south of the subframe connection. That's a good spot for the front! Had my car in the air with that setup for months and months. It withstood gale force winds, torrential rain, etc.

 

[Eltory]

Thanks for the pics!

I am still stumped though, it still is making that noise, and there is no play at all on any of the front wheels, both 12/6 & 3/9.
Tie-rod is tight as well.

 

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Did you spin the wheel in the air while you grabbed the spring to feel for the vibration?

Also when you hear the sound, turn left and then right (hopefully in an open space). If the noise gets louder going left it's the right side bearing and if the noise gets louder going right it's the left side bearing as you are putting more weight on that side. Don't rule out a rear wheel bearing either.

Bearings can still be bad with no play.

 

[CHI2000GTP]

Bearings can still be bad with no play.

^^ This. Their are a lot of threads on this forum about hubs/bearings. It's been pretty much decided that these cars EAT hubs. Doesn't matter if it's MOOG, Timken, ACDelco.... they get eaten alive. Those are the high-end brands and from what I understand they last about 2 years before needing replacement.

Could it be a bad CV axle? Just throwing it out there.

 

[Eltory]

Did you spin the wheel in the air while you grabbed the spring to feel for the vibration?

Also when you hear the sound, turn left and then right (hopefully in an open space). If the noise gets louder going left it's the right side bearing and if the noise gets louder going right it's the left side bearing as you are putting more weight on that side. Don't rule out a rear wheel bearing either.

Bearings can still be bad with no play.

Sorry for the delay, had a cold.

Yes, I did spin both wheels in the air, and didn't feel any vibrations on the spring, but, I did hear slight drag from the brakes, however I will do that again today to double check.

 

[Eltory]

I took some more pics of the rust eating everything, the brakes, the hub, and some other stuff with blue all around it (is that thread locker on that pan?) located here: https://1drv.ms/a/s!AnhsiMH-zFEXgjg2EYkanSmOaaN4

I made videos, 1 for each side of the car, and those are here: https://1drv.ms/a/s!AnhsiMH-zFEXgjtIfKGgkNEaK_xc
As you can hear, that sounds like brakes rubbing, that is NOT the same sound it does while driving.

The driving sound is more of a groan/howl type thing, I plan to make a video of that as well sometime in the next couple of days, as long as it don't rain.

 

[Eltory]

Anyone got anymore advice?

 

[wstefan20]

Had something similar after replacing pads. Did you check your caliper bolts to see if they are sticking? They are quite prone to corrode and bind. If you didn't with your brake job, I'd remove them, clean them and the bores out, replace dust boots while you're there, and re-lubricate them. Also, rusted brake clips can cause this. Did you replace the brake clips and lube them when you were done? Another thing I did was to buy drag reduction clips https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3766395&cc=1382532&jsn=344, these things are literally gold.

As far as the sway bar, the best tool for the job is a good ratchet wrench. About the only thing you can fit on the rear bolts. Think they're 15mm if I can remember. This tool makes install a breeze. Here's what I recommend to replace it with https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1322015&cc=1382532&jsn=392.