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94 3.1 has ignition problem

9

94prixer

New member
Hi all, I'm working on someones 94 GP 3.1 and when you turn the ignition on the accessories all work, but when you start it there isn't even a click. I thought maybe it was a bad key switch because there was no power going to the solonoid when the key was turned. Both ground and power wires are good though. I clipped the solonoid wire and made my own switch to the battery and it turns over now, with the key in "on position" of course. It now runs for about a second or two then dies. Seems to run smooth too, no shaking. I also checked all fuses under the hood. The fuel pump is priming. Guy says it just wouldn't start one day at work (no click). Does anyone know what it is? I dont know why it would run for a second then die if the ignition switch was bad? But I don't want to go through all that if that isn't it.

I've been searching on here and haven't seen this problem yet. TIA
 
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bluegtp91 said:
Unplug the MAF...might that...if it runs with it unplugged then the MAF is the issue.
Click to expand...

He's bypassing the ignition switch and probably triggering the theft deterrent, if it's not the reason why his starter isn't working.

94 B'villes wouldn't give signal to the starter if the VATs system had been triggered. Is there anything happening with a security light on the dash? Try a different key etc.
 
I'll try unplugging the MAF and see if it works.

Yes the security light is flashing. But the guy that owns it told me it has been doing that forever, along with a random check engine light once in a while. I tried getting the codes but it didn't respond at all. How do I get that VAT reset?

So I'll have to see if he has another key or not. Otherwise, before I bypassed it is there any other reason for it not starting?
 
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my 96 has the same problem. i was told by a friend of mine that it is prob the contacts inside the key switch that contact and read the small resister chip in the key. they are known for getting worn and most of the time it isn't the key. get a ohm meter and check the resistence of the chip on the key, then goto an electronics store and buy a resister of the same value. you will now need to get ign wire schem, find the wires that goto the contacts inside the key switch and cut them and install the new resister to each wire. what your actualy doing is tricking the security of the ignition with the purchased resister. any one with a little more knowledge of this situation may want to verify this. i havent tried it yet. just toooo busy. let me know how ya make out..
 
I'm gonna start taking the key switch off tomorrow. The guy at GM says that the keys usually work right and it's the cylinder switch.
 


Well it turns out the two white wires are broken on the old switch. Now I'm wondering, will any used key and cylinder work with the computer, or does it need to be the same as my "#9 chip" old key? Or do the keys chips just match the cylinder they go to?
 
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