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55w vs. 35w H.i.D's

DanPrixGTP

Moderator
Ive asked this question a couple times on here but everyone has a different opinion, I'm just going to get this answered once and for all. Im buying new H.i.D's from VVME. I am all about bright lights, the brighter the better. So i personally want 55w headlights and fog flights. I have brand new fog light housing and new head light housings but they are both stock (besides clear corners). some people say 55w will melt both my housings? If i do buy 55w head/fog lights from VVME will they melt my housings or no? I just dont want to buy 55w then a few months later have all my housings melted away. Thanks for the help.
 


i have vvme 55w as my lows and love'em, but for fogs i have 35w cause theres already a risk with the fogs and i think 55w would melt them even faster
 
Is there a big light output difference from you're headlights to fog lights? I want everything to be even. I'm picky
 
theres i little difference but there also different K's but for them being different W's and K's there pretty damn close, i want them to match also but im very happy with them even if there alittle off
 


think about what you're doing. the car will ALWAYS produce 12VDC, or more so around 14VDC running.

the wattage of the bulbs is going up, requiring a higher amperage to maintain that 12VDC (V=IR [resisitance is static]). thus, you are increasing the pull these bulbs will have on your electricaly system.

technically speaking, the lumens output from the 55W bulbs are not going to be that much of an increase, basically because of power constraints. save yourself some time and money, go for the 35W bulbs like 99% of the people do.
 
35W 4300 bulbs > 55W 10K bulbs.

Why so much talk about HID's...did the other thread not deliver enough?
 
Blue... lol!
:)


There is SO much information on the net, let alone here about this topic... but to answer your question.



Going higher than 35W in the stock FOG housing is probably NOT a good idea, if you have doubts, go for it, disregard the numerous postings about the housings melting after a time using 55 watters. BEFORE I did mine, I read all about it and decided to get the BlazerTech fog's (35w and yes, yellow) mainly due to the housing being METAL and an H3 lamp that if I wanted to at some time in the future upgrade it to 55w, I could without concern.

The main headlamp assembly I'm not so sure there's as much worry, as they're all plastic that I've seen, so shot the moon here. I've also read again and again that using 55W HID's in the STOCK housing will cast way too much GLARE and cause problems while on the road and even tickets! But if you're one of those who don't give a %$^# about other drivers (high beams = 100%) then go for it. The only thing I WOULD recommend is that which ever you decide, even 35W Fog's, is that you upgrade the wiring as it is not designed to handle the increased amperage the lamps will draw from the circuit when installed. Sure, it'll work without it, but for how long is anyone's guess and do you really want to burn up some wiring under the hood? Hmmmm... IF I could suggest anything, it would be to put your money towards a RETROFIT job on the lights if you are not happy with output. This way not only do you increase the output, but you actually get to put some light where you want it... on the road!

Good LucK!
 
Blue... lol! :)


There is SO much information on the net, let alone here about this topic... but to answer your question.



Going higher than 35W in the stock FOG housing is probably NOT a good idea, if you have doubts, go for it, disregard the numerous postings about the housings melting after a time using 55 watters. BEFORE I did mine, I read all about it and decided to get the BlazerTech fog's (35w and yes, yellow) mainly due to the housing being METAL and an H3 lamp that if I wanted to at some time in the future upgrade it to 55w, I could without concern.

The main headlamp assembly I'm not so sure there's as much worry, as they're all plastic that I've seen, so shot the moon here. I've also read again and again that using 55W HID's in the STOCK housing will cast way too much GLARE and cause problems while on the road and even tickets! But if you're one of those who don't give a %$^# about other drivers (high beams = 100%) then go for it. The only thing I WOULD recommend is that which ever you decide, even 35W Fog's, is that you upgrade the wiring as it is not designed to handle the increased amperage the lamps will draw from the circuit when installed. Sure, it'll work without it, but for how long is anyone's guess and do you really want to burn up some wiring under the hood? Hmmmm... IF I could suggest anything, it would be to put your money towards a RETROFIT job on the lights if you are not happy with output. This way not only do you increase the output, but you actually get to put some light where you want it... on the road!

Good LucK!
^X2 And get or make relays so the initial pull of turning on the HIDS isn't straining your electrical system. Mine made my DIC flicker for the first 5-10 seconds of turning them on.
 
i do have 35w H.i.D's right now off of ebay that were real cheap and you can tell, so much color wash and both my foglights dont work anymore. So before i invest more money in getting them all replaced i wanted a clear answer of what to get. I like really bright lights so i was thinking about going with 55w. But everyone says its not worth it so why waste my money i guess. Plus im going to VVME to get my stuff because ive only heard good about them. Thanks for all the help guys. i promise no more H.i.D questions. Next up on the "to do" list, Cold Air Intake Baby! let that supercharger breathe and scream!
 


Getting an intake doesn't let the blower breathe...lol

Headers would technically do that.

FWIW, my I put 5K 35W HID's all around in my woman's G5...they are plenty bright and aren't dumb blue.

They win.
 
Headers are after intake. I wanna drop to a 3.4 pulley. I'm still deciding on what colors to do yet. I don't mind the blue but they aren't as bright
 
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