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4THGEN'S Failstar

How great of a deal? I planned in drilling and tapping the current motor next spring. But if your deal is great enough I'd consider taking it off you hands. It's a "9" code right? And not a Y?
 


I rike dis...

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Not no, but hell no. Dude has over 15 grand in that setup IIRC. I don't want to make this car any less reliable than it already is.
 
BillBoost37 said:
Not really..it's tight as a mother in there. So you grab the wiring harness out fo the interior (there's a connector) flop that football box that the pcm is sitting in onto the motor. Undo the cables/hoses etc and exhaust. Then pop balljoints, undo rack from subframe and lower it all out the bottom.

Have some jackstands about 18" up if you can to hold the subframe. Then it's swaparoooni and try to get it all aligned to get the body back on it. I had a super HD 4 wheel dolly that I brought to my buddies place. Literally it was able to hold the subframe with full drivetrain on it and we'd slide that out of the way. Then if the car had to be moved..we'd put the front of the car on the dolly and roll it that way.
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Decided on through the bottom...quick DIY, BillBoost style?

Also have a quick interchangeability question for ya you might know.

I read on a Cadi forum that 2000-2003 are interchangeable. I called a local yard and they're saying 03 is 03 only....any info?
 
Quick and dirty was unhook exhaust at the downpipe area as we'd call it. I think the electrical unhooks inside behind the glovebox then pulls out. This motor being different than a 3800. Take the harness out with the motor/trans. Get the airbox out of the way (throw as far as possible) and gank the football pcm case out... flop it onto the motor. Unhook your hoses and such, throttle and cruise cables. I'm sure there's a ton of stuff I've forgotten. You get the point though. Make sure that baby is ready to drop out..then have 2-3 guys when you do it. Watching as you lift the body to ensure you don't hit/rip/pull anything that isn't supposed to be. Sorry man..it's been a couple of years since we learned the N* lesson. Never again is all I can say after that.

Interchangability. There's one small thing ... like a different evap or something small and silly. I'd trust the caddy guys..but ask ..what is different, in case it needs to be swapped over.
 


4THGENCAMAROFAN said:
How great of a deal? I planned in drilling and tapping the current motor next spring. But if your deal is great enough I'd consider taking it off you hands. It's a "9" code right? And not a Y?
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Yes its a "9".. I would take $1200 like it sits. Hanging from an a frame, parts in a pile, engine on stand, all holes drilled and tapped. 19 studs and nuts (number 20 got ruined) no gaskets yet. black/black. 225,000 miles.
 
Subscribed...
Just a heads up don't be to sad when you see the low MPG these cars get

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2
 


The I will shorten it, most states will allow for 8 characters if a I is included, so "FAILSTAR" would likely be allowed.
 
That'd be sweet Sheff. Window sticker says 17 and 27 COMPG. I'm not gonna complain about that when the car weighs over 2 tons and can still pull 155mph
 
Enjoy the swap. I'd suggest a few friends, music and only a 12 pack of beer. More then that and you'll likely walk away from the project, it's not a quick easy motor like the 3800.
 
A few hours in. Where is this stupid plug that runs through the firewall behind the glovebox? I can't seem to find it
 
IIRC the ones we messed with where 96-99's.. You might not have it. Look for the wiring harness going into the firewall. It's gotta feed speedo etc to the interior somewhere. That's what you are looking for.

Ya know..just look around with all that excess room they gave you,...lol I think it was tough to see. But when working with a buddy, you ofteh go after the same things and the other guy handles other things. That wiring was Dan's issue. Sorry..
 


Not a big deal. I ended up just unhooking everything. I'll flop the harness ontop when we drop it...which should happen today. I allowed 4 days for this swap so I'm not in a huge rush. I'd rather take my time and make sure I dont damage anything
 
I think 99% of the wiring is unhooked and out of the way. I think all that's left is the rear o2 sensor...can't seem to find a plug for it? Any info on that Bill?
The 37 billion coolant hoses are disconnected.
Tranny cooler lines are off.
The PCM, throttle body, and all of the harness for that side is sitting on the strut tower/windshield.
Exhaust is unbolted.
Steering linkage is unbolted.
The wheels are off, calipers unbolted, strut bolts are loose but not removed.
All the cradle bolts are broke loose and ready to be removed.
Motor mount bolts are loose.
Intake is off and the starter wires and power wire are off.

Still need to remove the P/S pump. What kind of puller did you use for that Bill? Ours isn't working, gonna try a 2 jaw puller.
Trying to get the alternator and A/C compressor off so that we can avoid draining all the freon. Only have one nut left for the compressor and the power wire for the alternator which is in a terrible spot.
 
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