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4T65E Differential INSTALL PICS!!!

Trannyman95

Trannyman95

Transmission Expert
A few threads have had questions pertaining to the proper order of install for the associated parts with the differential. These steps apply to 98+ 4T60E/4T65E transmissions though 97 and earlier models are the same with the exception of the snap ring on the output shaft where it goes into the diff is a different style. These are assembly pics starting with the parts removed showing the order things go together and in which direction though I did add a pic of where to use a chisel in the center of the diff for removal. Enjoy!

Pic#1 - Here is a pic for dissassembly referrence for 98+ models. You will need to use a wedge shaped chisel and a hammer to crack it lose. This is required to unseat the snapring on the end to allow the diff to pull/slide off of the output shaft.
Diffinstall014.jpg


Pic#2 - This is a pic of the internal ring gear for the final drive/differential and the teeth MUST be in excellent condition!!! NO chips or nicks allowed here as damage to a new diff will occur!
Diffinstall0025.jpg


Pic#3 - IMPORTANT STEP!!! DO NOT SKIP!!! You MUST put some type of assembly lube on the bearing to hold it to the park gear. If the bearing falls out of place OR you didnt take this gear out and dont know the bearing fell and try to bolt the diff housing back down it can BREAK because it is sticking out too far and the weak aluminum ears for the bolt holes on the housing will snap off! Make sure you put the bearin on the gear in the correct direction, larger-outer side surface goes towards park gear, smaller-inner race goes against internal ring gear-trans side!
Diffinstall004.jpg


Pic#4 - Proper direction for park gear to be installed into trans
Diffinstall005.jpg


Pic#5 - View of installed park gear
Diffinstall006.jpg


Pic#6 - Proper install direction for final drive sun gear. Recessed end goes TOWARDS transmission against park gear!
Diffinstall007.jpg


Pic#7 - View of installed sun gear
Diffinstall008.jpg


Pic#8 - Correct DRIVERS side output shaft install
Diffinstall009.jpg


Pic#9 - Correct PASSANGER side output shaft install
Diffinstall010.jpg


Pic#10 - Diff installed into transmission. Sometimes this can take a little wiggling and spinning to get it seating all the way as the gears all need to line up properly for it to fall into place. Notice the order on the housing end of the diff.... Shim first, then bearing with the ID of the bearing towards the differential
Diffinstall011.jpg


Pic#11 - Use a hammer to give the output shaft a good sharp tap to seat it into the diff (98+ models only!) If you are doing this IN the car then you will need to hold the drivers side CV tightly into the trans and tap the diff into the shaft while keeping the gears lined up. This is sorta hard to explain without pics or without you laying under the car to understand what I am referring to and I dont have pics of that in this thread.
Diffinstall012.jpg


Pic#12 - View of properly seated output shaft in the differential. Notice the snap ring is visable sticking roughly half way out of the gear.
Diffinstall013.jpg


At this point you are ready to put the diff cover/ housing back on the tail end of the transmission and if doing this in the car you are ready to reassemble all other parts on the outside of the trans. I hope these pics and info help out! If anyone has any questions or want me to add more to this please let me know

Dave
 


Dave, I think Ive asked you this before, but I cannot remember your response. So if I may, I'll ask again here.

In the first picture, above the differential there is that rusty looking plug sorta thing. What is that?
 
That rusty plug you are referring to is a cartridge type part that goes inside the trans and aligns the park rod. Next time I have a bare case before I put a trans together I will try and snap a pic of that for you.
 
Cool, I would appreciate it. Just curious more than anything. I nearly tried to get it out on my spare tranny and then I thought better of that plan.
 
Yeah they are normally corroded in pretty bad and there is no reason to remove it unless it is clearly leaking, which I have never seen. There is a roll pin on the top of the trans case that keeps that part held in place.
 


I must say, I'll never do this again in a driveway! Now I'm 3/4 the way finished, and my car is covered with snow. I just need to work out my clearance issues tonight. I was having difficulty getting the differential to bottom out in the trans. All of the bearings are seated just like in the pictures. I'm thinking that the output shaft isn't going all the way into the driver's side axle, but am not 100% sure. For this reason, I wanted to pull the drivers axle and get the differential situated. After that, I'd put the drivers side stuff back in and be done with it. Thanks for the pics Dave.
 
Nice write up!

Easy to do when the tranny is out of the car, but when its in still...its can be fun, but doable.

Thanks for doing this, might answer a lot of questions for others down the road.

~F~
 
Thanks guys! As straight forward of a job as this looks I know there have been a lot of people out there end up with a nightmare and broken parts afterwards and things can go back together multiple ways, let alone wrong ways! Having real world pictures and not just something out of a tech book that was drawn really helps to verify how things go in and as always I am glad to help out.
 
Awesome writeup, will come in very handy.

I do have some questions about the output shaft install (with the tranny on the car).

In your pic sequence, I guess the output shaft goes in just after the sungear goes onto the sungear shaft, right?

Do you slide the output shaft in from the driver's or from the passenger's side? Does it matter?

Is it necessary to remove the driver's axle? Would it be easier to do so? I could just tap with the hammer to seat the shaft in the diff like in pic #11 if I remove the driver's axle, right?

When you seat the shaft in the diff with the hammer, do you have to hold the diff somehow?

(I'm sure I'll come up with more questions later)
 


If you do this in the car you dont need to remove the output shaft or drivers side axle, but some people do and that is why I believe I mentioned a few variations on how to do it. Basically if you are doing it in the car it is easiest to leave the output shaft in the trans, then when you put the diff back in you will need to have one hand holding the drivers side cv/axle against the trans while tapping the diff over the snap ring on the output shaft with the other hand. The order of the shaft install doesnt really matter, as long as it is ready to be lined up with the diff once you have the diff gears lined up properly in the ring gear inside the trans.
 
I guess I wasn't entirely clear; I'm planning an -HD upgrade, meaning I need to swap in an -HD output shaft. And all while on the car.

So, do I slide my old output shaft out the driver's or passenger's side (or does it matter)?
Can I just unhook my driver's axle and pull the old shaft out the pass side right along with my old diff?

Which side should slide the new shaft in from (or does it matter)?
Can I seat the HD shaft in the HD diff on the bench and just slide those in together on the pass side?
 
Ahhh gotcha. You will need to remove the drivers side axle from the trans and then you can remove the retaining clip and slide the shaft/diff out of the passanger side. It is almost always necessary to remove the clip because it can get caught on a plastic lube dam inside the trans and break it which would be bad as it directs lube fluid to the geartrain inside. This is probably the easiest way to swap the parts so you dont have to clip the diff back onto the output shaft in the car.
 
Awesome.

So if I got that right, after removing the driver's axle and OP shaft clip, I can pull the old diff and OP shaft out as a single assembly (on pass side); then slide the HD diff and OP shaft in as an assembly (from pass side). Do I have that right?

Now, if I do that, I assume I'll want to not have a clip on the new OP shaft as I pass it through (to avoid dam breakage)...will I have enough space to put a clip onto the driver's side end after I pass it through (assuming the shaft is already clipped into the diff)?

Next question: will these clips get mangled during removal? Will they be reuseable? Do you have a source for these clips if I need new ones?
 
That is correct, you will slide the shaft and diff out clip-less and same for what you are reinstalling. I use snap ring pliers to remove the clips. Again the clips dont necessarily have to be removed and you can try to slide the shaft out with the clip on BUT be careful! If it wont easisly pull through then the clip needs to be removed. You will know when it does this as the shaft will go about half way through and feel like it catches something and dont force it at this point! The clips can fight you a bit coming off and on, you can always use the one off of your other output shaft if you mangle one up. It is easiest to put one back on the output shaft after you have installed the diff and the housing is bolted back down. I try to push the clip over the end of the axle as good as I can then tap it with a hammer if need to get it into the groove. It should not be really sloppy on the shape, just pay attention to what it looked like before you remove and install it.
 


Nice write up. Getting the diff off the output shaft while in the car is a pita. When i finally got it the right actually shot off and landed in my hand.:th_biggrin2: Which was good that i didnt lose it.:eek:
 
Im doing a 4T65E to 4T65E-HD Upgrade. I put the HD diff with all bearings in exactly as shown but when I put the hd cover on their is a ~1mm clearence issue. I've checked and rechecked that the bearings are lined up and every time they are good. I can push the cover flush but I have herd it should sit flush when you install it with no effort. Could the diff clearence shim be to big for this app.?
 
The o-ring on the diff housing will make it stick out just a small bit, if you take the o-ring off of the diff housing will the housing sit flush? I havent come across one that wont go on all the way as long as all the bearings are in the correct position. The only selective shim is under the bearing on the very end of the diff and they are all pretty common and dont vary much in thickness. The biggest problem people run into is the bearing behind the park gear falling out of place or installed upside down and that will cause problems. If it fits ok without the o-ring in place then you will be fine, just carefully tighten the cover bolts and if there is resistance like it wants to break then loosen back up and take the cover back off.
 
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