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3.8 locked up?

MrTube said:
Not really part of the thread but. These engines have a tensioner on the timing chain? Does this keep the cam timing dead on as the chain wears or does it still drift with wear\slack?

my last SBC 350 had 226K on the chain without a tensioner and I always wondered how far the timing was off.
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the cam timing wont change even if the tensioner is worn.
 


so... is the tensioner plastic and the gears metal? What if the tensioner is what is toasted?

The shops I called today won't touch it for under $100+ to diagnose it. I guess they need to pull the pan and look into it further. I just don't want to spend $1500 on a repair of a engine with over 175K miles. I'd rather just swap it out with one from the bone yard. What can I get a 3.8 for now a days?? Any hints?
 
yes, the gears are metal, as is the chain. the tensioner is plastic and is meant as a wear part. when the tensioner cracks and breaks the metal tab it is mounted to eats into the chain and then take the chain out.

replacing the motor shouldnt be your primary go to solution right now. crack open the front cover and see if everything is okay.
 
Bio248 said:
yes, the gears are metal, as is the chain. the tensioner is plastic and is meant as a wear part. when the tensioner cracks and breaks the metal tab it is mounted to eats into the chain and then take the chain out.

replacing the motor shouldnt be your primary go to solution right now. crack open the front cover and see if everything is okay.
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OK, we'll be doing that tomorrow and hope to post some pics...
 
just got the call... it is NOT timing chaing!! - good news

it is the intake plenum... again - bad news.

it was hydro locked, and antifreexe was on top of the intake under the TB.

But... The plenum and gaskets were replaced in '04, about 91K miles ago. Is it possible that this is happening AGAIN!!?? Is it a design fail or an install fail??

Any help would be appreciated here. From my past experiences I would say that the person installing this did it WRONG. Is that a correct assumption? Should they pay for replacing it again??
 
its a design fail. the lower intake gaskets blow, especially if it was 91k miles since they were last done.

if coolant got in the oil then the bottom end is shot. all the bearings are just about to spin.
 


Bio : I have a series III from 06, is this problem fixed on these engines? Also I thought there was an improved gasket for the older ones that solved the problem? Or was it only an improvement not a solution?
 
ive done an L26 intake on my L36. why is this something crossing your mind for a solution? it really isnt any better than the plastic L36 intake (so long as you buy the updated one).
 


Bio248 said:
ive done an L26 intake on my L36. why is this something crossing your mind for a solution? it really isnt any better than the plastic L36 intake (so long as you buy the updated one).
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the updated one is still partially plastic from what I understand...? No?
 
the problem area is the EGR tube coming up from the LIM. the old design was entirely plastic and would eventually melt from the heat produced by the EGR gasses. the new design has a metal ring where it mates to the EGR tube and handles it a lot better.
 
Well... here's the fix - $1000 later... (included plugs, wires, upper and lower gaskets)....
can't seem to post the pictures. I'll try later. It was the intake and cheap plastic lower intake gaskets.

The shop did this 61K miles ago so it seems that this is a huge issue. They knocked off 10% from the bill at least.

QUESTION: This was done in 2005. Was there a "fix" for the intake by then or were they replacing the old design with the old design still????
 


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