Scrapped as much as I could before going to work today. Will resume tomorrow and will follow your directions for sure.
Thanks again for all the help.
2008 Grand Prix 3.8 III Series Coolant leak
- Thread starter Fatesjoke
- Start date
Scrapped as much as I could before going to work today. Will resume tomorrow and will follow your directions for sure.
Thanks again for all the help.
Okay, I've got everything almost put pack together, just have the PS and water pump to attach and I've got an extra bolt and nut. I've searched all of my pictures and both pieces are pretty clean. They are 19/32". Any idea where these go? I've been searching and searching and everything that I remember removing has gone back exactly where it was supposed to.
http://fatesjoke.com/carpics/20171024_170719.jpg
http://fatesjoke.com/carpics/20171024_170719.jpg
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
thats your dog bone bolt.
You'd think that, but I didn't take them off. They're still in place.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
thats the only bolt that large, unless its the bottom alt bolt and nut, but it looks way to large for that.
wstefan20
New member
Looks like an alternator bolt or a belt tensioner bolt to me. I know there's a grounding bolt that I always forget to put back on under the icm but I don't think it's that large... there's also a nut that size on top of alternator that holds your ground strap. I'd check there
I removed all of the bolts that I put back in today that have the same head size to see if there is a size difference, but they're all the same length. I was thinking I might have put a shorter one in where a longer one went, because there is an open hole in the Lower Intake that it fits into (about 6" in front of the forward elbow I replaced and just in front of and above the water pump) but it bottoms out after about 1 1/2". None of my pics have anything there though, so I'm thinking nothing goes there.
Alternator is bolted in and the grounding strap is in place.
I'm really hesitant to put the rest of this together and try it because I'm pretty sure I shouldn't have any extra pieces, this isn't a lego set.
Alternator is bolted in and the grounding strap is in place.
I'm really hesitant to put the rest of this together and try it because I'm pretty sure I shouldn't have any extra pieces, this isn't a lego set.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
theres no bolts used on that cover with a 3 inch shoulder on it. its got to be a alt or dog bone bolt type deal.
Okay, I'm an idiot.
It was the bottom back bolt of whatever the alternator bolts on to (can't think of the name, but the elbows that are known to fail connect to it). So now I've just got a nut that is missing it's home. On the alternator grounding bar does it go alternator-nut-bar-nut?
Sorry, doing this over a period of days, working full time and taking care of my wife's elderly grandma has totally left me mindless it seems.
It was the bottom back bolt of whatever the alternator bolts on to (can't think of the name, but the elbows that are known to fail connect to it). So now I've just got a nut that is missing it's home. On the alternator grounding bar does it go alternator-nut-bar-nut?
Sorry, doing this over a period of days, working full time and taking care of my wife's elderly grandma has totally left me mindless it seems.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
alt bracket we call it. with the tensioner built on to it and the elbows.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
best of luck at the start up. you earned it.
Alright, yesterday didn't pan out for working on my car but I did get everything put back together, fluid filled and did a few test starts this morning.
No leak, which I feel is an accomplishment. But after starting the engine three times I'm getting a really high idle (2.5K) for about 90 seconds then it's like the engine is about to stall and the RPMs drop to about 1K before it rebounds. I'm also getting a low oil pressure light. No check engine light is going off though. I am getting a high whine from the engine, like a low power steering pump. Of course I did unmount the PS pump to get to the WP but it is mounted now and there was no loss of fluid at any point.
Is this something I need to let work its way out after everything that I just took off and put back on? Or is there something that I need to do to fix it before I start the engine again? I put almost a quart of oil in to hopefully fix that and I never dropped the oil pan or filter, so I shouldn't have had to worry about cavitation, right?
I checked out the alignment of the serpentine belt and it seems a little off-center when it goes across the tensioner, but otherwise it seems to be right where it should be on the other pulleys and immediately after turning the engine off I didn't see any smoke or feel any warm spots on either side of the belt that would suggest a lot of friction. And there aren't any noticeable smells coming from the engine that would point toward anything I can think of.
No leak, which I feel is an accomplishment. But after starting the engine three times I'm getting a really high idle (2.5K) for about 90 seconds then it's like the engine is about to stall and the RPMs drop to about 1K before it rebounds. I'm also getting a low oil pressure light. No check engine light is going off though. I am getting a high whine from the engine, like a low power steering pump. Of course I did unmount the PS pump to get to the WP but it is mounted now and there was no loss of fluid at any point.
Is this something I need to let work its way out after everything that I just took off and put back on? Or is there something that I need to do to fix it before I start the engine again? I put almost a quart of oil in to hopefully fix that and I never dropped the oil pan or filter, so I shouldn't have had to worry about cavitation, right?
I checked out the alignment of the serpentine belt and it seems a little off-center when it goes across the tensioner, but otherwise it seems to be right where it should be on the other pulleys and immediately after turning the engine off I didn't see any smoke or feel any warm spots on either side of the belt that would suggest a lot of friction. And there aren't any noticeable smells coming from the engine that would point toward anything I can think of.
Is it possible I need to do an idle relearn? http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/92991-idle-relearn-procedure
I remember reading that there may be a need for the crank shaft (I think that was it) timing to need to be relearned but that it would happen automatically if it needed to happen at all. But it was only mentioned once in any of the threads so I didn't think it was a common concern.
I remember reading that there may be a need for the crank shaft (I think that was it) timing to need to be relearned but that it would happen automatically if it needed to happen at all. But it was only mentioned once in any of the threads so I didn't think it was a common concern.
wstefan20
New member
So your oil pump is in your timing cover, so when you remove your timing cover for service, it is no longer primed. This is what I was getting at earlier. Since it's back together, I'd be lazy and use Scotty's method and remove your fuel relay, ignition module connector, and crank your engine over (just spinning it with the starter) in short bursts until your oil pressure comes back up.
Basically, you are running your engine with no oil going trough it right now. It's possible it will correct itself if you run it long enough, but running an engine without lubrication can and will cause damage, so you'll want to get your oil pressure corrected first.
Personally, I've never had to do a Case learn after doing this procedure or really ever (and I've swapped engines before with no issues). As far as idle relearn, it's always self corrected for me after driving once or twice. But it's worth a shot. (after you correct oil pressure)
Hopefully you haven't done any long term damage to your bearings by running it dry like you just did, but these engines are pretty stout.
Make sure your oil level is correct first and foremost.
If you oil pressure does not come up quickly after you try the above, you have two options:
1. remove oil pressure sender located on oil filter adapter, find the correct barb adapter to this hole and connect a tube running to it and attach a funnel to the other end. Try the above process except add a quart of oil to the tube and crank engine. This has never not primed the pump for me. The trick is being quick replacing the oil pressure sender sensor after removing the barb hose adapter.
2. Remove everything you just did down to the timing cover, remove oil pump cover, clean, pack with petroleum jelly, re-install screws with lock-tight, and re-assembly.
Obviously since it's back together, option 1. is your best choice and what I'd recommend. Usually I choose option 2 every time when I'm in the timing cover because it is much easier in the long run, and it works, but since it's back together, not really the best option here, just mentioning for future reference.
Basically, you are running your engine with no oil going trough it right now. It's possible it will correct itself if you run it long enough, but running an engine without lubrication can and will cause damage, so you'll want to get your oil pressure corrected first.
Personally, I've never had to do a Case learn after doing this procedure or really ever (and I've swapped engines before with no issues). As far as idle relearn, it's always self corrected for me after driving once or twice. But it's worth a shot. (after you correct oil pressure)
Hopefully you haven't done any long term damage to your bearings by running it dry like you just did, but these engines are pretty stout.
Make sure your oil level is correct first and foremost.
If you oil pressure does not come up quickly after you try the above, you have two options:
1. remove oil pressure sender located on oil filter adapter, find the correct barb adapter to this hole and connect a tube running to it and attach a funnel to the other end. Try the above process except add a quart of oil to the tube and crank engine. This has never not primed the pump for me. The trick is being quick replacing the oil pressure sender sensor after removing the barb hose adapter.
2. Remove everything you just did down to the timing cover, remove oil pump cover, clean, pack with petroleum jelly, re-install screws with lock-tight, and re-assembly.
Obviously since it's back together, option 1. is your best choice and what I'd recommend. Usually I choose option 2 every time when I'm in the timing cover because it is much easier in the long run, and it works, but since it's back together, not really the best option here, just mentioning for future reference.