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2007 GP LE 3800 stalled. no crank. no codes HELP PLEASE!

J

jghibb

New member
Stalled while driving city speed
- engine would crank but no start
- approx. 5 minutes later it fired
- drove 3 blocks and it did it again
- waited approx. 10 mins and it fired
- drove 500 feet and stalled again
- sat for 30 mins (turning ignition over every 5 mins or so)
- after approx 30 mins it fired and was able to the 30 minute drive home in 3rd as rpm
was fluctuating and I assumed maybe CPS.

I checked the codes with my basic obd2 scanner and it said there was no data in computer and there were three tests flashing on the screen indicating they hadn't been completed. I have not disconnected the battery at any time.

Following Day:
- changed crank position sensor
- car started and ran seemingly fine
- went for a short drive and returned leaving car running in park in the driveway
- returned to car after approx 10 minutes and put it in reverse
- as soon as I put it in reverse the car died again, this time "no crank"

I then had a mechanic look at it (after hours at his home garage)
- the computer was checked for corrosion and seemed clean
- relays were checked and cleaned, are all good
- computer was reset by tapping neg and pos battery cables (not connected to batt)
- wiring in fuse/relay box was checked for corrosion and all was clean

The car started after playing with all of this and the mechanic assumed it may have been a dirty relay. I picked the car up from him and drove home with no issues. The car sat shut down for 30 mins. I then started it with no issues, backed out of the driveway, put it in drive and got about 20 feet and it died again. Tried to restart but, once again, no crank. I pushed it to the side of the street and parked it for the night.

The Next Day:
- engine started without issue
- I drove up and down the curb side, forward and reverse, for about 10 minutes
- the car stalled in reverse but was able to restart
- engine ran for approx. 30 seconds after I put it in reverse then died again
- once again, now No Crank.

AND THATS IT...lol. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
 


Seems that reverse is easy to repeat the problem. And since it also happens in forward this tells us that likely you have an electrical short. I'm seeing another common items here with heat.

Check the connector to the coil pack ICM. If that bolt is loose, it can do what you are describing.
The three tests you mention, sound like emission tests. That is odd that they would be pending if the battery had not been unhooked.

If you start the car and tap on the pcm does the car stall? Tap on the maf?
 
BillBooost37 said:
Seems that reverse is easy to repeat the problem. And since it also happens in forward this tells us that likely you have an electrical short. I'm seeing another common items here with heat.

Check the connector to the coil pack ICM. If that bolt is loose, it can do what you are describing.
The three tests you mention, sound like emission tests. That is odd that they would be pending if the battery had not been unhooked.

If you start the car and tap on the pcm does the car stall? Tap on the maf?
Click to expand...

I think it may be a PCM issue. When it is running the fan is not kicking on and it does run hot. I disconnected the temp sensor and the fans do work. When is stalls and won't crank as I turn the key to the "on" position the gauges all move to max position then go back to zero position (fuel, temp, tach, spedo) even the low fuel warning comes up. I connected the obd2 scanner and it says it cant connect. This is when it won't crank. If it sits for a while (30 mins or so) it may crank then my OBD2 scanner will connect, however, no data stored in computer. I also unplugged the MAF while the engine was running and plugged it back in and it stalled as I plugged it back in.

Thank you for your response.
P.S. I haven't been able to get to the PCM at the moment because it is all back together but I'm sure I'll be heading in that direction..lol
 
Last edited:
I would be aiming toward the sound of over heating. Not sure why.. just something you said.

For testing purposes, you don't unplug and plug a sensor back in while it's running.
 
Check all grounds. The symptoms you describe really point to either a bad ground or a bad ECU/BCM. Also, check all relays, could be a relay shorting as it gets hot.

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You can go to the BBB Industries website for free access to a wiring diagram database. That'll help you find the ground connections.
 


Today it sits at an Auto Electronics shop. I'll let you know the outcome. Thanks for your help. I'm at a loss.
 
The automotive electronics shop called and they traced it to a faulty connection or circuit in the ignition switch. So.. this will be changed and we will see where that takes me...lol. Again, thank you for all your input on my problem. I'm not one for posting because I'd rather read through the forum and investigate myself and usually with great success. However this had me stumped and it was one of those things that could be a multitude of issues. (it's not a sound system shop..lol)
 


You got lucky. Auto Electric is one of the most tedious and boogeyman filled diagnosis process. Sometimes it can be cheaper to replace an entire loom than chase the bad wire.

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