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2006 Bad Trunk Rattle

J

jjwitty

New member
Got my 12" JLs(2) w/1000watt Power Acoustic amp installed and now there's a horrible rattle in the trunk area. Anyone have this problem and solve it?
 


yeah that's the obvious answer but thought there may be some GP specific rattles that other guys had that i should look out for.
 
i had serious rattle on my rear license plate...i stuck some carpet padding behind the plate and killed alot of it.
 
on the 04+ gp's the spoiler and and escpecially the 3rd brake light on the spoiler rattle like crazy try pinching the spoiler and brake light together while sitting on the spoiler and see if its gone...
 
I have a 06, I just deal with the noise but the license plate is real bad the Most of the rattle comes from the spoiler. I duno how to fix it, try some dynomat? but like I said the majority of the issue is with the spoiler.
 


yeah the spoiler was a lot of it. i took the carpet off the trunk and none of the bolts were cinched down and 2 were actually missing. replaced the two bolts and tightened and that helped a lot. just went out and got 6 rubber washers to stick in there plus some weather stipping to line certain places with. tryin to do as much as i can with the cheap routes given how much the dynamat stuff is. sounds like somethin inside the wheel well is rattling or it almost sounds like plastic flapping.
 
i was able to take the spoiler completely off, remove the factory sound deadening material, lined the whole spoiler that made contact with weather stripping. also took the brake light out of the spoiler and lined that also. the brake light was a huge part of the rattle. however, today i found out that my so-called 1000 watt amp was no where close to pushin that much. there are 2 25 amp fuses in the amp and that is a tell-tale sign i guess. so now i'm lookin for a true 1000 watt amp. are the fuses the only way to really tell if it truly pushes 1000? but now i'm wonderin if maybe the guy that had the amp before me may have accidentally put the wrong fuse in the amp. would that hurt performance? and would the wrong fuse even fit? kinda new to all of this.
 
alot of the ZX series come with a "birth certificate" ( since u asked me in PM about the zx series amps ) and this certificate shows what the amp was putting out before it left the factory, most are above whats rated on the box. ( ex: zx750 , certificate says that is was pushing 790 before it left the factory ) ... Legit for kicker? DEFENTLY!!! I recommend kicker quality over anything, alot of guys will tell u to buy some of this MTX and other junk...u get what u pay for, and I think they're all crazy for not running kicker :p ur a JL fan so u should know about a good company :D
 
in my o1 the bose speaker mounts rattle like a son of a bi$%h just put some rubber between the mount and the metal surface.
 


matt5112 said:
Its a good sign of what it'll do.

If its class D maximum efficiency is around 88% which means 88% of the power it draws, it turns into output. Most class A/B amps are around 50%.

SSA Shop - Sundown Audio SAZ-1000D amplifier

Heres a real 1000 watt amp. Price isn't the best in the world, but apparently the quality is okay.
Click to expand...


They're made in Korea. Quality is pretty decent. Great value for the money...not a diamond in the rough but probably top of it's class in that price range.
 
They don't make the SAE-1200 anymore...but here's some power output numbers for it. I can't find the other forum when they went through a lot of the amp line up Sundown offers...

dB-r Electronics Forums - Sundown Audio SAE-1200D Review


First, let me make this clear, that this is NOT a "laboratory test". This is just a quick test of the amp here on our bench with our load testing setup, which really works better for amps under 500 watts to get accurate numbers at various voltages etc. This was just a quick test, but we did use Fluke meters for measuring the output voltages and current, and did use our oscilloscope for the unclipped power tests.

I know everyone wants to see the numbers so let me throw those out there first and then you can read the rest of the review:


Max Power Tests, with no regard to clipping:

40hz
65VAC 23Amps @ 12.5V = 1495 watts @ 2.8 Ohms

60hz
51VAC 25Amps @ 12.0V = 1275 watts @ 2.04 Ohms

65hz
48VAC 27Amps @ 12.0V = 1296 watts @ 1.78 Ohms



Unclipped (clean sine wave output) Power Tests:

40hz
55VAC 14Amps @ 13.2V = 770 watts @ 3.93 ohms

52hz
40VAC 20 Amps @ 12.5V = 800 watts @ 2 ohms

60hz
38VAC 22Amps @ 12.5V = 836 watts @ 1.73 ohms

69hz
39VAC 22Amps @ 12.7V = 858 watts @ 1.78 ohms
Click to expand...
 
i have 2 kenwood 12's in my trunk along with a 1000 watt amp. my trunk rattles but it doesnt sound bad AT ALL. and I have a spoiler on the back that wasnt necessarily made for my car lol. good luck with it.
 


Unclipped (clean sine wave output) Power Tests:

40hz
55VAC 14Amps @ 13.2V = 770 watts @ 3.93 ohms

52hz
40VAC 20 Amps @ 12.5V = 800 watts @ 2 ohms

60hz
38VAC 22Amps @ 12.5V = 836 watts @ 1.73 ohms

69hz
39VAC 22Amps @ 12.7V = 858 watts @ 1.78 ohms
Click to expand...

Introducing the idea of clipping still doesn't change the representation of these numbers vs his sales pitch. Care to explain? For $300 I don't see these amps as terrible in any way. I definitely don't see any issues with the numbers he uses for marketing. I'm also not a fan of the idea that everybody needs 1.2 jigawatts going to their speakers.

So what is it you're saying about these products? I'm really confused now...I think they're a decent product for the price. Diymobileaudio guys have had good luck using them in entry level systems. However, when looking into SQ on a daily basis, we're generally not too concerned about sub output so long as it plays transparent. But that has more to do with installation and tuning. SPL is generally much more fun than SQ too :)...so I can kind of understand why nobody is concerned with quality anymore.
 
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what you can do is put dynamat in side the truck lid and also the 2 bushells on the trunk lid turn them until they are tight. also make sure u remove that firewall stuff from around the 6x9 so you can relieve some of that pressure.
 
devante46 said:
what you can do is put dynamat in side the truck lid and also the 2 bushells on the trunk lid turn them until they are tight. also make sure u remove that firewall stuff from around the 6x9 so you can relieve some of that pressure.
Click to expand...

dude look at the date before you post
 
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