Ok, well after 125,000 miles my little Betsy started stalling out on the way home, would just die out. Twice I was able to pull out of traffic and stop, wait a few and fire it back and get home. After reading some I deccided that replacing the crank sensor was best option. Think I read somewhere if the cam sensor goes it will still run. Like crap but still runs. Same as disconnecting the Mass Air Flow sensor...Couple times I blew that fuse that also and it runs 2 other systems, traced it to a toggle sensor on the drivers side (hood alarm sensorgrounding out) frame brace, wire was shorting everything on that circuit. Got a few of those codes too...Anyway..My real question here is I'm trying to find the Cam Sensor location?. Some say move the overflow tank out of the way and pull the power stearing pump away (3 bolts) for access...Some say pull the water pump pully (not water pump itself) ..ANd the belts, needless...And the best write ups are titled "Cam Sensor Location" and the proceedure is to remove the harmonic balance to get to the CRANK Sensor...Been there, Done that...Anyone know where the darn thing is located and how best to get to it without too much pia ? No codes, just want to know where / how JIC....
2003, GTP, Cam Sensor Location...
- Thread starter gtp03daw
- Start date
BillBoost37
New member
Here you are, down and left of the water pump pulley. IIRC it's a 10mm.
I've done it w/o pulling the power steering or water pump pulley. Haven't done one on a GP, however it's likely simple enough to remove the bolt via braile and then maybe work through the wheel well or with a mirror.
I've done it w/o pulling the power steering or water pump pulley. Haven't done one on a GP, however it's likely simple enough to remove the bolt via braile and then maybe work through the wheel well or with a mirror.
Thanks and I hope your memory is correct ! That would be great to just pull the wheel and get to it that way! I'll chek that out when I go to replace the O2 Sensors...Hey whats pulling the wheel !! Last month the tranny burned up...Started dropping out of gear sitting at stop lights, then go back into gear when giving a little throttle...Accumumulator piston...there went 2,500, AAMCO VS GM Dealer (4,600.00)..When I got her back and since what the heck..I also replaced the wheel bearings (defanatly need a claw puller removing 10yr parts here, they just don't "tap loose) fyi..My factory hub bolt was 36mm and the replacement was 33mm, calipers, rotors and 1/2 shafts..Also replaced that hollow front sway bar (failed inspection for cracks on the flange where it bolts on since factory is hollow steel) ..So I bought a solid one, went in w/out dropping the sub frame...And thanks for the quick responce !
BillBoost37
New member
You'll have to slide the coolant tank over to the front of the motor as well. And in the pic, it sure looks to be a 10mm. Look at it this way.. it's either a 10 or 13, and that pic doesn't look 13 to me.
On the tap with a hammer, you gotta put down the pink hammer your wife bought for herself and get a 5+lb garage hammer. Then it'll be a tap. You are in Virginia, land of no rust. How bad can it be. lol
On the tap with a hammer, you gotta put down the pink hammer your wife bought for herself and get a 5+lb garage hammer. Then it'll be a tap. You are in Virginia, land of no rust. How bad can it be. lol
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
my last hub took some extra hits to get it out, but it came out, left the sensor cover in the knuckle too. i had to punch that out after i beat the hub off. you can see some hammer marks on it too.
Well we do have salt and snow here ! I move that tank aside on a regular basis latley! Before the puller I did severly assault the shaft (bolt level at end of saft) with my Genuine Lowes Kobalt 5lb sledge...My wife was hanging pictures with her hammer at the time..Why swing that sucker when you get to use that brand new shiney claw puller you bought several years ago ? Few turns and presto...