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2000 turbo regal v.notSnowflake *now with more flames*

yeah thats the BMR front, it has a BMR out back as well

im thinking of making him sell em for a new design thats a rigid mount and has an aluminum crossbeam that sits vertical next to the cowl for nearly 2 extra inches of plug changing room....plus i want the drivers side of it to mount the dual solenoids right near the wastegate but with a nice little heat shield

was thinking of having "suck it" machined into the middle

the rear i can drop weight by going to an aluminum setup that would be plenty strong but drop weight from the good end
 


I never liked the ebay plate setup I had which is why I went with the stockplate spherical setup the ebay ones with their bearings would creak so much it was embarrassing.

I would really like to get the mount point as high as possible though to get the most we can out of the limited strut travel we are dealt with
 


except for hood clearance issues the strut can sit nearly an inch higher than stock. agx/adjustable guys would have to drill a hole in the hood under skin....the other folks can just cut down the strut rod end

as you can see this design requires no modification to the strut tower unless you go to full negative and then trimming is required...

eventually the car will get the big boy plates that replace the whole tower top....
 
Yea I love the way you have it and like I said I would be in for a set if you happen to cut another set up. My hood is already cut for the strut rod issue.
 
just so you know the adjustment plates are quarter inch 304 but the mono balck ops are standard chromoly so they will rust unless you paint just the cup which is what I was going to do on the TR.
just so you know in the hardware isn't that cheap either since I kept everything metric but I'm buying bags of fasteners at McMaster so I'll give you a damn good deal cuz its not cheap at Ace Hardware
 
finally made the bushings and tossed one side together.

tons of travel and swing room....I think im going to like how easy it is to swing the strut out of the way of working on ****

I made the plastic rubbing blocks for the new sway bar links so once those are drilled and bolted on ill have some pics of the madness
 
just scored a Qeefe for the TR

buddy snagged one that had been sitting on mike dye's shelf for over a decade with about 1k miles on it.

little rusty patina to it but you better believe that ****s going in the TR after I go through it and get it pickled and black oxide'd

hk.png
 


nah.
i am looking at 80e stuffs, **** the 65e

it was the torsens that needed the modified thrust washers iirc so im glad we managed to find one of the quaife's
 
well the diff is gonna take some work before i put it in....so we're sticking with the oem till its ready to toss in.

but i did finally make the pan spacer/rail. 3/8ths 6061 rolled plate....with less variance than the damned zzp pan.

my main goal is for a pan rail for a fab'd pan with baffles and a filterless sump for using an external filter on the cooler/lube line

while i was at it i figured out how to puzzle together another one...i figure with copious rtv and carefull assembly it'll work great with the oem gasket with a dab of rtv at each joint. nice thing is i was able to break it down and nest it inside the solid spacer.

ill probably sell the helicoiled zzp pan and weld in a plug on an oem and go ahead and make the 1" spacer once i prove this one out a bit. the 1" plate unit will eventually be the fab'd sump pan rail but it'll add some meat to it all.
 
Thinking out loud here.. would it be of any value or make it easier if you make the spacer thick enough to recess the bolts into and then drill/tap say 1/2" to the side and redrill the pan? That way whenever the pan was dropped, you'd still only deal with one gasket surface?
 


Right.. except you'll drop one or the other and at that point, the piece could get bumped and need to be redone.

Obviously since you are using a jigsaw puzzle RTV would be the winner to seal it up vs a second gasket.
 
That wasn't Bill's idea. Bills idea was to bond the spacer to the trans with all the regular bolts countersunk. Then drill new holes in the pan and have threaded holes in the spacer.

Leveraging on the greatness you thought I said and what I was thinking. How about say 4 spots where the spacer held itself to the trans and then the pan comes up with a gasket and longer bolts. That way there's no worry about the spacer moving. But you still have the puzzle pieces to worry about sealing.

James.. go back and cut one w/o it being in so many pieces please.
 
I don't know about you but RTV that to any pan is going to result in a joint that probably even dropping it would result in the ZZP pan breaking before the RTV separated
 
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