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2000 GTP RPM stalling out issue

Yarbeau

Yarbeau

New member
Hey guys, my brother is having some issues with his 2000 GTP coupe.

He says the RPMs will bounce around hitting 5k slamming down to 0 bounce back up and the car will then die. Its not a constant issue, happens a few times a week for the last month. Now it died on the road last night and wouldn't start back up so he's waiting on a tow home. The car went down to 0 RPM the traction control and oil light came on and the car died. No fluid leaks everything is full fluid wise.

Any ideas what could be wrong with the thing? plugs, wires and coils would be where I would start. Anything beyond that?

Here is a brief list of what I know has been done to it.
Headers
down pipe with cat delete
3.4 pulley
throttle body spacer
MSD wires
MSD coils
K&N
Aeroforce gauge
Oil, temp, boost gauges.
Custom tuned PCM

Thanks so much for the help in advance. this forum works miracles.
 


We got it to start but it won't stay running longer than 5 minutes.

Swapped PCMs in it, put stock wires and coils on. Still nothing.

No codes are being thrown for misfires or anything. Put a new fuel filter in... No help.

Any ideas?
 
So you were driving along and the tach dropped to 0 before it shutoff? If so, this sounds like a classic symptom of a bad crankshaft position sensor. They usually don't set a code either. The sensor is behind the balancer towards the 3 o'clock position. Check the wiring to it. If all checks out there then might be time to pull the balancer and replace the sensor.

If you do end up replacing the sensor, be sure you locate the keyway on the balancer correctly w/ the crank before you hammer the crank bolt back down or you will cause other issues. It happens all too often, lol..
 
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^ this is what I was thinking. And yes, if you do remove the balancer make sure the keyway lines up with the groove on the balancer!! I recently cammed an L67 and put it back together correctly. Then had an oil leak in the seal behind the balancer and replaced that but forgot to put the balancer back on the keyway. Had to replace the balancer and was thankful I didn't wreck the keyway/tooth on the crankshaft! But don't risk it. Make a checklist or something and on that list put down to make sure you put the balancer groove on the keyway and make sure to quadruple check it.

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Pull a plug or two.. are they wet? If so.. they don't smell like fuel I'd bet.

If that's the case, get a TB gasket, remove that TB spacer and throw it away.
 
Perfect thanks so much guys. I'll be going over there tonight and seeing what I discover. I had previously pulled the plugs and they weren't wet or carbon'd up.

Thanks for the replie my friends!
 


Ok so we pulled it apart and changed the crankshaft sensor. Making sure to quadruple check the keyway. The car hasn't changed.

Thought the problem went away when taking it for a test drive. 15 minutes later we were stranded yet again.
ANY other ideas? Im open to anything. Need to get this car up and running for him.

Thanks guys.
 
Runs like normal sputters 2 or 3 times and then stalls out.

Once they mentioned crank sensor it made sense. Runs fine, loses crank positioning and shuts off. But I guess that isn't the case. I checked all the wires running from the sensor and everything is in great shape.

I'm stumped.
 
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Hmm. I ask because I had a bad fuel pump. Car would run for 15 minutes and then shut off. But the car would run really bad and then stall. After 15 mins the fuel pressure would drop to like 15 - 20 psi then drop to about 10 and die
 
Forgot to mention I changed the fuel filter in it thinking that could be the culprit. This was before I checked plugs and wires etc.

Could it be the fuel pump or something to do with fuel supply? Should be able to read that on the aeroforce and see if its cutting off due to lack of fuel.
 


tomtom123 said:
Hmm. I ask because I had a bad fuel pump. Car would run for 15 minutes and then shut off. But the car would run really bad and then stall. After 15 mins the fuel pressure would drop to like 15 - 20 psi then drop to about 10 and die
Click to expand...

Interesting. could be his issue to. Its not like its an instant die. It sputters 2 or three times and then dash lights up with Traction control/abs and then it dies.
 
Could be. I'm sure not everyone has the exact same issue when something goes bad. Like mine after 15 mins would run like crap at about 15 - 20psi but would keep running a few more minutes. I suppose it could just die right out too
 
Ill take it for a spin tonight and monitor fuel. This is really getting to me and its not even my car!
Thanks for the tip tomtom
 
I don't know. Havent tried that. Will give it a shot.

I've just bee going over there and giving the kid a hand. Will let it run and see if it still dies out.
 


Ok so heres an update.
When the car dies it takes 15-20 minutes to turn fire back up again. it turns over and is getting a spark but won't fire until it has cooled down.

I went over there last night but the kid had his keys with him. I changed the msd coils back to stock (again because he is convinced the MSD ones are solid, I'm not) and swapped the bottom plate those sit on for one i had sitting around.

Wasn't able to track fuel as I couldn't start the car.

Could it be a bad cam sensor? I talked to a mechanic friend about it and thats what he thinks. But i figured id ask the pros before attempting another job that might not solve the issues.

Thanks guys.
 
So it was the ignition control module (Plate underneath the coils) that was at fault..

Changed that and the problem has gone away. Thought I'd update just incase someone else was having the same issue in the future.

Put the MSD coils back on to see if it was the coils and not the plate. Turns out it was definitely the plate.

Thanks guys.
 
Good to know. And when he starts having misfires again, pull off those MSD coils and reinstall the stockers and drive on. They don't call them "My Spark Disappeared" for nothing, lol...
 
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