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2000 gtp crank position sensor??

Knightmare

New member
Ok upon doing some searching and reading on here...i just wanted to see if my thoughts are in the right direction.
On my way to my family's house yesterday my car did some really strange stuff. It started bucking and jumping when intried to give it throttle, my battery light flickered and eventually my rpms dropped to zero. After about a mile of this, the car stalled; it started right back up but was still jerking and bucking like crazy when on the throttle.....only if I tried to actually get on it though. Fast forward to my family's house....took it back out and had same results just no stalling, I could not get on it because it acted like it wanted to die on me when I did. A few hours later I hooked up my laptop and monitored my live data...nothing outnof the ordinary and it ran completely normal...made 7 psi of boost when gettin on it (according to scan xl on my laptop)...had 3.8 deg of knock at max....everything I read indicates it is a crank position sensor failing......does that soumd right?

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I would shotgun a sensor in there just because its possible and the fact that the tach dropped to zero while driving.

Its kinda hard to say what else it might be at this time.
 
Thanks guys, I guess I am just baffled by why it only did the tach thing once. Although I guess if it is just starting to go bad, it could explain it. No more days off til tuesday, hopefully she holds out that long.
 
Well tomorrow i plan to tackle my crank position sensor.......wish me luck lol

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Fair enough lol...i heard the hb was a ***** to remove....only part im nervous about honestly

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Thank you lol....def gonna get an hb puller....1/4 x28 x3? Right size?

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I used m6x1.00 around a 70-75mm length. I'm sure whatever equivalent that is in standard will also work. Lowes should have the bolts.
 


Check out the how to on it. Either that 1/4 fine pitch or M6 x 1.00 will work. M6 is more the exact thread though. Don't expect those bolts to be in a typical puller kit.

I'm not on board with it being a crank sensor FWIW. I'd say start it up.. pop the hood and tap on the maf sensor with your finger. Cause any odd behavior..it's the map. Unplug, drive around w/o beating it and see if the issue doesn't come back. If so.. toss a maffy on there.
 
Check out the how to on it. Either that 1/4 fine pitch or M6 x 1.00 will work. M6 is more the exact thread though. Don't expect those bolts to be in a typical puller kit.

I'm not on board with it being a crank sensor FWIW. I'd say start it up.. pop the hood and tap on the maf sensor with your finger. Cause any odd behavior..it's the map. Unplug, drive around w/o beating it and see if the issue doesn't come back. If so.. toss a maffy on there.

The maf would cause the tach to drop to zero too? I just had that happen again on sunday....it completely crapped out on me like three times on sunday...seems to be ok on short distances...just not on longer ones

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I just went out and did as you said...started it up. ..popped the hood and tapped on the maf...nothing happened...I unplugged it and heard a very slight change in rpms....like it dropped for a sec.....then leveled back out....did same thing when I plugged it back in.

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I just went through the exact same issue knightmare its the cps like everyone stated before... Go to your local advance auto and get there bwd sensor for 32.99 plus tax it has a lifetime warranty and toss that bad boy and its all good.
 
If your rpms hit zero with the engine running, then yes..most likely CPS. I reread your first post. First time through I read it as you saying they dropped to zero when it stalled. Rereading it appears they dropped for a while then stalled.
 


If your rpms hit zero with the engine running, then yes..most likely CPS. I reread your first post. First time through I read it as you saying they dropped to zero when it stalled. Rereading it appears they dropped for a while then stalled.

My apologies for the confusion .....the tach drops to zero while the car is running....my trac off light comes on....the car runs like crap...then a few mins later stalls on me....

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Ok so where am I gonna find the flexplate inspection cover??? Anyone have a pic by any chance?

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the inspection cover is on the d/s under the car, it covers the flex plate, its between the engine and trans, it take 2 or 3 10 mm bolts to get it off. its all plastic.

why you need to get in there?
 
Dont have an impact gun....have to keep crank from spinning...
...is this where it should be??
eduduze4.jpg


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