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1999 3.8 GT grand prix blower/fan problem



If your fan speed dial only worked on number 5, and #1,2,3,4 did not work, your problem is the Resistor Pack. The Auot Part Stores sell Resistor Packs for 2002 Grand Prix for $31.00, so I am sure that the resistor pack for your year is cheaper. Pick one up and disconnect the 2 wires on your old resistore pack, and hook the wires up to the new resistor pack and see if the fan dial works before you change the resistor pack. But most chances are that's what the problem is. It will either have 2 or 3 bolts holding in the resistor pack..If your not sure how to do the job, get yourself a Haynes Manunual for your car at the Auto PArt Store, but don't get the Chiltons Manual for they are not as good. A Haynes Manual cost about $24.00..Good luck, and reply to the post after you fix your car.
 
pvensel said:
If your fan speed dial only worked on number 5, and #1,2,3,4 did not work, your problem is the Resistor Pack.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily, that's the first thing to try but if that doesn't fix it, especially if other things don't work (DRL's and rear defrost in ours), it seems to be the ignition switch. Obviously try the resistor pack as it's cheaper and much easier to get to. Of course if your car has the leak up by the cowl, it sucks to change, and I'd recommend plugging the new pack in before taking old one out to make sure it works, otherwise you'll be rather upset after finally getting those 2 front bolts out to remove a part that isn't bad.

I tried resistor pack first as I assumed it could be the only problem, and was rather bummed (to say the least) that it still didn't fix it. Of course that's when I noticed the DRL's turned off since it was in the garage.
 
I would like to thank everyone that has posted to this thread over the last couple of months. You saved me a trip to a mechanic.
I had the same symptoms as others have posted: blower motor only worked on 5, DIC was out, rear defrost didn't work, and the automatic headlights wouldn't function when blower was on. After replacing the blower motor resistor (it looked like it had been hot and had some of the green film coming off) and the blower motor (it has had a squeak at low speeds for years that really drove my wife crazy) it wasn't fixed. After finding this thread, I took out the ignition switch (thanks for all the pictures they were a tremendous help) found the carbon, cleaned everything up and put it all back together. Everything now works again!
I will say the hardest part was getting the spring back in the ignition switch correctly, it took numerous trys and lots of time.
Thanks again!:th_thumbsup-wink:
 
I just went through this whole process about 4 months ago. Gradually I lost speeds 1-4 on the blower and I could only get 5 to work. Changed the resistor, no luck! Read the above post with pictures and followed his instructions-bought a new ignition wiring harness from GM parts direct.com for $80, followed the instructions above and it took about 2 hours. Took the old contact assembly apart after the project was done and the contacts were burnt as described above. I saved the old assembly as a spare and will clean the contacts if the problem happens again-although the first ignition wiring harness lasted 90,000 miles. Not a bad job to do once you start! I would definitely buy a new ignition switch or try to clean the contacts on the old one once it is out but I would not buy a used once for $50.

Two tips:

1. I did not need the special Torx screw drivers mentioned in the thread above and sears no longer makes them anyhow since I tried to find them. I used a 1/4 inch ratchet with the torx sockets and a small extension.

2. To prevent the contacts from burning and carbonizing, make sure that you turn everything off BEFORE you shut the engine-rear defogger, AC, blower motor. When you restart the car, turn whatever you want on AFTER the engine has started. Leaving everything on and then starting the car causes mini sparks that burn the contacts.

Hope that this helps!
 
wadehosic said:
I will say the hardest part was getting the spring back in the ignition switch correctly, it took numerous trys and lots of time.
Thanks again!:th_thumbsup-wink:
Click to expand...

I did it today for my 2001 prix gt. Now I can not get the spring back in position after 3hours try. Can you give me some advice or any special tools I need to use?
 


I didn't use any special tools other than a small screw driver. I had to walk away from it a couple of times or I would have thrown it! Sorry I don't have a magic answer for you. Since it is 4 days since you posted I really hope you got it!
 
Resistor Pack was the problem.. I thought it was the motor, but nope, it was the resistor pack.. The blower motor doesn't work unless the resistor pack is good. I got all 1,2,3,4,& 5 back on the dial...Thanks guys.
 
I make it today! Finally put the spring into position. I mdae a small tool:a thin stick with a hole on one end, just like a small socket. Then it pritty easy to put the spring into position, just 10 second. Thank you all! Everything is back to work!
 
Ok first post on here but be viewing for awhile. Did the above thing and cleaned all the carbon off now my proble is that when i start the car the key will not turn back from the start position like there is a spring or something in the ignition that wont reset any help please can drive it as is but would prefer not to damage the starter or flywheel from the key not turning back
 


Ok i had to do this for my step mom's GP, and the trick i used for the spring(after 2 hours of ****ing around with it) was the stem that you use to air up a basketball, i just sniped the end off of it so the hole was big enough to go around the spring and slid the spring right in place, easy as pie!! hope it helps you guys. Robsranger did you fix your spring yet?
 
Great Instructions! Just a tip for everyone trying to get the spring in correctly. I put the spring and the cam into the main assembly with the part of the spring that sticks out in the 4 or 5 o'clock position. This is where it needs to sit. I put the cover over the assembly and inserted a wide screwdriver into the cam and applied a lot of downward pressure so the spring would not come out of position and rotated the cam until the part of the spring was at 12 o'clock. I then quickly pushed the cover on the secure the spring into position.

This method worked a lot quicker than even the basketball air filler idea. It took me maybe 3 tries to get the right pressure and I had it on in under 5 minutes.

Thanks again. I haven't put the ignition switch back in yet but will do in the morning and hopefully it will solve all my electrical problems I've been having w/ the blower, drl, a/c light, defroster...
 
Just re-installed the ignition switch - Everything works like a charm! The steering column upper and lower casing didn't go back to gether exactly snug. The outside has a slight gap between the upper & lower. The clips don't want to stay attached. I'll live w/ it.

Thanks again!
 
Just fixed mine also! Cleaned the contacts and installed the pain in the ass spring! But other than that only took a couple hours. Most of the time is dealing with that damn speing! Shanks!!!!!
 
I am working on my buddies GP. He said he had "5" for a while but then it all cut out. He is not having any of the other problems with the DIC or DRLs or anything. So would you think its just the blower motor then? I don't wanna take apart the ignition switch if I don't have to.
 


I guess I just don't see it being the switch since there are no other electrical problems (Not trying to argue, just trying to brainstorm). Plus this guy has had water in his passenger side MANY times and never fixed it until I said something.
 
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