• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

1971 Datsun

well what im thinking is that, since i have to redo a diffrent set of covers, im going to do a black layer, put a sticker on there that says Datsun then peel it off after i paint the orange over the top i also want to put the datsun logo on the oil cap, dont know if i want to paint the S/C yet... i also want to go ahead and drop the pulley to a 3.4. correct me if im wrong, but i should be able to do that with just the larger exhaust and the headers right
 


you should be able to do it, yes.

your car is also much lighter so the load on the motor will be much less. a 3.4 should be easy for you.
 
so swapped out my nice aluminum valve covers for the garbage plastic fiber ones.... argg.. painted S/C and installed intake manifold. dang thing would be done if it wasn't for scraping gasket material for hours on end lol...









 
lmao, feel free to send me another one, as soon as i get her broke in it will get changed.

and on that note need some good pics of engine bay so i can route everything correctly, haynes is usless when it come to supercharger stuff
 


hers your vac lines, the evap can be deleted.

the 3 ports on the top of the supercharger one will be unused, so cap it, the extra vac port would have been ran to the hvac system in the gtp. the fat port off the same cap goes to the brake booster. cap it off if you have manual brakes.

jt88yv.jpg
 
the line that runs from the T under the snout to the map sensor, cut that line, install another T in line, run it to the boost gauge.

advance auto as the best T's i could find local, nice and small, and cheap, 2 bucks for a 2 pack. and 4 feet of vac line is more then enough new line.
 


No, the ecu that was in it was a 97, so from what ive read really all i have to do it plug the 97 gtp ecu i have in, and ignore the codes for the auto tranny which is what i do now so i will have to add the wire from the ecu for the solinoid... its a painless wire set up
 
'97 was best choice too, since the knock sensors seem to not give a sh1t at all compared to the '98+ ones, lol.

And with it being a '97, this would be the correct vacuum diagram if you pulled it straight from it...to make it easier.

vacuum.jpg
 


I have all the sensors for the swap. i have seen the thread, i didnt think i needed to rewire anything just swap the sensors over except for the boost solinoid. maybe i need to find a 97 pcm pin out to double check
 
yeah pretty sure a wire need to be pinned in for the boost solenoid, and the pig tail gets changed for the map.

im just going off following other threads, never did a top swap personally.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top