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1971 Datsun

any chance some camaro shorty headers would fit. if they sell them for a v6?


cant wait to see this thing screaming down the road. its gonna turn a head or two.
 


Scottydoggs said:
any chance some camaro shorty headers would fit. if they sell them for a v6?


cant wait to see this thing screaming down the road. its gonna turn a head or two.
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Wish they did but they don't. So I have to make some out of the pace setters that I have and the stock fwd ones. I'm going to try and make them like the power logs But for both sides them have them connect somewhere in the middle. But we shall see.

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So I want to run this buy you guys and see what you think. Do to the lack of space mostly on the drivers side due to the starter and the steering box. I have to due custom headers. what I did previously was run both forward and then back, but it had to go under the cross member and that sucked, so my plans this time is to run the drivers side forward and make like a power log style header for the passangers side and run the drivers side right into the passangers side and then they will flow back from there. What do you think?


old way

 


Pistons will be here WED WOOT... so in the mean time i had to modify the intake manifold to get rid of the throttle body water outlets. So picked up some aluminum brazing rods, the low temp kind, and grabbed a propane torch and got to work. First things first throw the intake on the grill and and turn it up as hot as it would go. left it on there for 45 min. then used the torch to heat it the rest of the way around the area anyway, what a pain in the butt it was to get it to heat up enough to use the propane torch.
here are the before and afters.





 
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Scottydoggs said:
you can drill and tap, then plug those holes too. http://www.grandprixforums.net/showthread.php?t=46931 3 rd time today I've pasted this link lol

but thats damn cool too. is that the aluminum welding sticks that flow like liquid metal when heated?
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Yeah I seen that u could do that but really wanted to try these rods out.
They flow like solder at like 730 degrees. The hard thing is getting the part up to temp because of how fast aluminum dissipates heat.
 
yeah, ive seen a bunch of vids on that stuff, its the new aluminum weld/repair. saw a guy rebuild a ear off a case of some sort, looked like new when he was done.
 
For the love of all that is holy... do our block really twist so much as to need a line hone when replacing bearings... I never herd of such a thing... i understand if using arp bolts or studs... but replacing bearing, rods and pistons? ive built many engines and never done it and they all lasted well over 100k. but reading a few threads on here got me scared lol... need info cause seraching through endless threads sucks...
thanks in advance.
 
simply put. yes it needs all that work. this is why we all buy used engines. the stock bottom ends have made 500 hp. why pay more for shop costs then a used whole engine would cost?
 


FML... wish i would have known that before I bought everything... oh well its only $150 for a line hone, thank God for small town machinist. now I just have to hope they dont F it up, what all do i need to take to the shop. its just the block with the main caps and new bolts right. and a prayer that not much material is removed so i can use the bearings i bought.
 
well hell... if i got to do all that guess i better go ahead and get a double roller, springs and cam, seats, f it... ill have one fast a$$ Datsun
 
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