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04+ Rack and Pinion replacement [*]

i haven't heard of any one re building their old rack, most of us tend to just swap it.

not that it cant be done. but i have not found a rebuild how to either.
 


Scottydoggs said:
i haven't heard of any one re building their old rack, most of us tend to just swap it.

not that it cant be done. but i have not found a rebuild how to either.
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It's my 06 and the granddaughter's 06 that has the leak. Leak may be strong, the boot is just moist. If it was the project car, I be doing it in a heartbeat, that the whole purpose of it. I wonder how close a 97's rack and pinion is to 06's? The PS fluid was low in the 97 when I bought it, maybe I could practice on it first? Then I could report back. :-) None of the three are variable steering. I think only my GXP is.
 
it should be the same job 97 -08. if it has magnasteer there will be a wire from the rack where the column boot is. it leads up towards the tranny.

a 18 mm line wrench makes getting the lines off the rack easy too.
 
Regardless unhooking those lines is the biggest PITA. You will love how GM gives you just enough room to make you think the job wont be that bad.
 
after lowering the rack a few inches, i took the lines off, from under the car, even with my huge 3x wearing gloves hands there was plenty of room to get the lines off.
 


BillBoost37 said:
I don't have a write up...but check me out.

Jack and support car (usually at factory jacking locations right behind front wheels.
Remove both wheels
Remove the nuts holding the tie rods to knuckles and free tie rods from knuckles
Ensure steering wheel is straight and can not turn
Lift rubber boot on top of rack and unbolt the 11mm holding the telescoping shaft to the rack. Wiggle it free
Lower rear of subframe about 2-3 inches and support at that height
Disconnect the two ps pump lines at the rack
Remove two bolts holding rack to subframe
Slide rack out the wheel well and reverse for installation.
Once completed, start car and fill ps res.
Turn wheel a few times in both directions an allow system to bleed air out.
Repeat with fluid/turning and sitting until system is at the correct level and not making noise.
Click to expand...

this is about all you need to know short of pics. google will find a few more that are on other boards, some with pics, most w/o.


Bills1997GTP said:
Not to bring up an old thread, is there another link for a writeup?
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a 18 mm line wrench is nice to have for the lines to the rack. the rest all you need is a 30 piece socket set from lowes or home depot. and some open end/box wrenches and a hammer of some sort to pop the tie rod ends from the knuckle. a normal roofing type hammer will work, but a baby 5 lb sledge will work better.

and if you have say a foot or more of extensions it will make getting the bolt off the intermediate shaft a lot easier. ( the bolt under the boot)
 
Scottydoggs said:
a 18 mm line wrench is nice to have for the lines to the rack. the rest all you need is a 30 piece socket set from lowes or home depot. and some open end/box wrenches and a hammer of some sort to pop the tie rod ends from the knuckle. a normal roofing type hammer will work, but a baby 5 lb sledge will work better.

and if you have say a foot or more of extensions it will make getting the bolt off the intermediate shaft a lot easier. ( the bolt under the boot)
Click to expand...
^^^this plus a decent flathead screwdriver to pry apart the piece where the 11mmbolt goes
 
Advance Auto Parts sells a boot or cover for less than $4. Don't use it unless you are removing the Rack. It is very flexible but impossible to replace with the Rack in the car.

The more expensive boots are rigid and can be installed without breaking or bending hydraulic lines.

I broke the return line when trying to install the flimsy boot. I ended up buying the better boot along with a new return line. I spent a whole day redoing it.

Take my advise and buy the stiffer boot.
 


brised said:
Advance Auto Parts sells a boot or cover for less than $4. Don't use it unless you are removing the Rack. It is very flexible but impossible to replace with the Rack in the car.

The more expensive boots are rigid and can be installed without breaking or bending hydraulic lines.

I broke the return line when trying to install the flimsy boot. I ended up buying the better boot along with a new return line. I spent a whole day redoing it.

Take my advise and buy the stiffer boot.
Click to expand...


you can replace the dust boots with it on the car, how do you think you change a inner tie rod? yup the boot has to come off, been there, done that.
 
Of course you can change the boot and the inner and outer Tie Rods without removing the rack.


My post referred to the BOOT. I replaced both the inner and outer Tie Rod. I bought a cheap boot FOR $4 and could not get it on. I broke more **** trying to install it . (THE RACK WAS NEVER REMOVED.)

The job took a lot longer because I had to replace the Power Steering return line after I broke it.

The more expensive boot is rigid and does not require a contortionist to install it. The extra $40 for the better boot is well worth it. It is rigid and slides right in place.
 
I used to have an '89 that went through two racks... and in both cases they blew their seals and the steering fluid came pouring out of the right side!
 
I removed my exhaust down pipe to make it a little easier to get the rack out and access the power steering line fittings. And dropping the cradle does make a world of difference and allows you to clean all your power steering fluid and road grime off the back of the engine area. I found it rather fun to get in there and clean up many years of grime. It also helped me check my power steering lines for corrosion. Found the return line will need to be changed out in a year or two.

I don't know the percentage of Grand Prix's with the Magnasteer rack, but the difference is when you are at idle the car senses it needs more assistance to steer and some how it gives you that extra umpf. I changed one in a 2002 GTP and in my 2006 GXP, very similar on how to swap it out.

My 06 GXP had no steering assist at all when the car was at idle but when I gave the car some gas all of a sudden it would work, and there was a slow leak coming from the rack on the outside boots. I was at the auto recycling center when I came upon a 2007 Grand Prix base line model with what appeared to be a refurbished rack. It had the tag on it, was freshly painted black and in great shape, plus it was magnasteer. The car looked as it if had been near a fire due to the paint all burnt up on one side. I purchased the rack for 35 dollars and it works great. I also replaced my power steering pump since I had the motor out of the car to replace exhaust bolts (broken in the head) and rear main oil seal.
 


Place them side by side before you reinstall and make sure it is turned the proper way. You can turn it with pliers.
 
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