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04 GP GT inner tie rod time...

joshuaandrew92

joshuaandrew92

New member
Going to try to conquer inner tie rods for the first time ever...

What I'd like to know:
1 - What tool do I need, my local autozone offers several inner tie rod removal tools
2 - from what i understand i just need to remove the boot, use the tool (kinda like a wrench) on the inner tie rod and spin it off, is it really that easy?
3 - I've searched for a few minutes trying to find a how to guide, is there one?

Thanks a bunch.

Also, I will be doing outer tie rod ends, and wheel bearings too. Strange thing is that it all seemed to go out at once, wtf...
 


your on track there.

you need a gm inner tie rod puller. what i did was get the new one at the counter, and then take the tool that fits the new inner rod.

you need to remove the outer tie rod end, then slide the tool over the inner lock it on, and ratchet it off. you also need a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar. once its broken loose, you can take it out by hand.

have some zip ties handy, the boot clamps, you need to cut them off (the boot slides off the end of the inner tie rod) zip ties work just fine to hold the dust boot on.
 
Thanks Scotty, I figured it should be that easy but who knows. I've done several outer tie rod ends just strangely enough no inners yet. It will be a great learning experience for me! All tools are not an issue just the tie rod tool. Lucky enough to have a big shop of my own with plenty of tools!

Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
Then straight to the shop for an alingment.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, I knew that much but the help is appreciated thanks for caring. I think my front tires are shot anyways, they are horribly noisy all the time
 
if you put some tape around the old inner rod, where the jam nut is before you take it off. then measure the distance to the end, copy to the new rod. it wont be perfect, but its best to have it close as you can to the old set up.
 
Yeah because the alignment as of right now isn't too far off which is a shame that I'll have to shell out more cash to get it done again. but it's better than tearing through tires
 


And for those wheel bearings if you've never done them before, after you get the nut off the axle shaft (its a 35 or 36mm) thread the nut on a turn or 2 and smack it with a hammer to break it loose so you can get the bearing off after you unbolt it.

You can stick a screw driver in the rotor going through the caliper to stop it from spining while you are unbolting the axle nut or going to torque it down. The TQ spec is 118 ft lbs for the axle nut.
 
So after getting the axle nut off, thread it back on the axle a few turns, then hit the nut with a hammer to free the hub up if it wont come right off? (which im assuming it wont, nothing ever does)
 
a 3 gear puller also works if you not getting it done with a hammer, hook the gear hooks to the hub, the center bolt on the axle shaft, and tighten the puller. it will push the axle in and out of the hub.

most of the time the little sledge woks just fine.
 
Right, you are hitting the nut to protect the threads on the axle shaft. You have to hit the axle to break the hold it has on the wheel bearing, one good smack and you'll see the axle move like a half inch and you can push it in a little bit. It wont move much because its still connected inside the transmission. Then unbolt wheel bearing and install new one.
 


Ok thanks for all the great help guys I'll be sure to check back in and refresh myself when I get started in a few days. I really appreciate it!
 
you do also need to remove the caliper and caliper bracket to get the rotor off. popping the outer tie rod from the knuckle helps to let you swing the knuckle around too.

have some string handy or wire hanger to hang you caliper up and out of the way, dont let it hang by the hose.
 
My local az only has the gm inner tie rod tool I had to order a different one when I wanted to do a ford windstar.
 
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