• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

02 Grand Prix ac issue?

T

tom5170

New member
203k miles. Ok so I bought the car 2 years ago and the ac never worked. I discovered it was because there was no refrigerant in the system.

So 3-4 weeks ago I pulled a vac for an hour and held it for an hour and it didn't drop. At that point I recharged the system with 32 ounces. I used a 20 oz can of ac pro and 12 oz can that had uv dye in it. The compressor kicked on and all vents blew cold. I did notice the ac clutch makes a scraping noise for a few seconds after the compressor is turned off and I was told this is due to the springs getting worn out causing the air gap to be smaller and grinding against the pulley.

I drove 30 miles yesterday in 97 degree weather and the ac almost froze me out of the car, and then 3/4 way home the drivers side vents started blowing less cooler than the passenger side. Today it's still doing the same thing.

What should I do next? Get a uv light and start checking for leaks? The compressor has an oily gritty black dirt film on the entire body, but it's not wet anywhere and it's not wet underneath the compressor. The 2 hoses running off the compressor also have this black gritty dirt film but it's not wet. The rest of the lines on the ac system appear to be clean.
 


That's a typical sign that refigerant is low. Specification is 2.2lbs (36 oz) of R134a and 9 oz of PAG oil. Get another can of AC pro and top it off then drive around a couple days.

Then, get a UV light and glasses and get in a dark garage to start inspecting. Start under the hood with the compressor, follow all the lines. As you inspect each area, wipe clean with a cloth and brake clean or simple green to get all the grime off. If you don't find anything obvious, move into the cabin and inspect around the vents, if you have an evap core leak you'll see some evidence of the dye as well.
 
When I recharged the system 3-4 weeks ago I put a can of refrigerant that had dye in it.

Should I just get the light and glasses tonight and start looking for dye tonight?

Can I just use the light at night and see the dye without the glasses? Or do I need to wear the glasses too?
 
Is the high side service port supposed to hiss when I take off the black cap? I can hear it hissing and I can feel pressure when I put my thumb over it... this may be my leak? It's the one next to the air intake.
 
There's green dye all over the high pressure port, green dye all over the pressure switch - and dye spots running down the whole line to condenser, there's green dye in front and rear of the condenser on drivers side with a dead bird right there in front of condenser. There's hints of dye running off one of the lines that are on the accumulator.
 
sounds like your in need a full rebuild there, that many leaks you may as well replace it all. or at least all the o rings and sensors and switches you see leaking.
 


The condenser has the brightest dye. It's glowing bright green right on the bottom corner. The rest of the spots look dull. There's green spots all over the tranny side cover that are duller.


Is the high pressure port and pressure switch serviceable or so I need to replace that whole line? It looks like a pita to get out. Do I need to remove the brake booster?
 
Never mind I got the brake master and abs loosened and moved them towards tb. There's only about 1" or 1 1/2" space though. Crows foot maybe?
 
Is the high pressure port supposed to hiss when you remove the cap? I notice the cap has a washer on it. I have to press down really tight while screwing it back on because the cap presses down on the valve inside and there's lots of pressure coming out. I keep double checking and around that high pressure valve I don't really see any dye glowing nor do I see anything around the pressure switch. But I see tons of green dye around the drivers side radiator bottom corner and behind the condenser and in the front of it in that corner bottom.

Does anyone know the size of the nut for the orifice tube?
 
the push pin inside sounds like its not in all the way, might be like a tire valve you can screw it in more. nothing should come out with the cap off.
 


How do I remove the cooling fans? I got 3 bolts out and dog mounts off but it won't budge. I unclipped the trans lines. How is it supposed to come out??? Which way do I slide it? There's a harness going over the top of it too
 
two 10 mm bolts hold the fans in, one top one on the side. then lift it up off the tab on the bottom.

iirc theres two more bolts at the top of the rad support holding the rad in place. pull the top towards the engine and lift it up and out.
 
Ok I got the cooling fans out by sliding all the way to the drivers side, holy f**k that was nuts.

Now how do i remove the radiator?
 
Jesus that was a pita but I finally got the condenser out. I think if I remove the radiator entirely it will help with reinstalling everything. How do I remove the lines on the radiator? Will the tranny lines leak a little?

I think what I'll do is install a new condenser, replace whatever o rings I find, and recharge with dye and see what happens.
 


There should be a small clip on the trans lines at the rad. Move the plastic cover off of them if they are there and you will see them. They are 3 sided. Grab a pick and magnet so it doesn't go flying once you remove it. Then the lines just pop loose. And yes, you may loose some from the bottom one but not enough to matter. Just top up the trans when done. Bottom line is a PITA fyi.

And that line under the brake booster is likely where the orifice tube is IIRC. You'll want to replace that as well. Just make sure you note which direction you remove the old one so you install the new one the same way. And lube all the O-rings with PAG oil so they don't roll up/cut on install. And you will also have to install a new receiver/drier since the system will be opened. So, o-ring kit, condenser, receiver/drier/orifice tube, PAG oil and away you go.

And I got that line loose under the booster by using a big crescent wrench and another wrench to hold the other side of the line so it didn't twist the line. Was a pain but it worked.
 
Yeah I just found out how to remove the wire harness that runs across top of the radiator. So that alone freed up my hassle quite a bit.
 
Now, the high pressure port, do I need to replace the whole line to replace it or does it unscrew from the line?

Can I use a valve core remover tool? Does auto zone have it?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top