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Speed Daddy U-Bend Delete Modifications

bsharpminor

bsharpminor

New member
I know that there are like a bajillion threads already; I've spend like an hour and a half tonight alone trying to find info on specific information (using the search function) on what's needed to delete the U-bend that hangs way down on the Speed Daddy Headers. I've ordered a set and am going to include the additional items I intend to order just for moral support hoping someone says, "yeah that's what you need," or "you are an idiot." I understand that most people aren't too worried about it, but if I'm able I'd like to care of it when I have access to a heated shop with a lift and welder over the Christmas break rather than finding a speed bump a few weeks from now and damaging things. The shop is near my father's farm and it is 10 mile trip one way to go to Napa and I'd like to have to take as few trips as possible to town for parts. In the midst of writing my post, I found the post on modifying the headers (Pictures of Modified SD Headers), but it does not include all of the tubing info (size and and angle);

I think I understand how to create my own jig, but could still use advice on building one if anyone has any. Again I am trying to eliminate unnecessary trips to town.

I plan on ordering the following all from Summit just for simplicity sake, there may be less expensive prices out there, but I am about $4 short of free shipping, and I'll find something to take care of that (the parts needed to get rid of that ugly bend).

Copper RTV
2x2.25" Band clamps
2x3" Band clamps
Flex Pipe
O2 Bung


So in addition to the aforementioned, what parts do I need to get rid of that speed bump catcher?

I found this 45* bend; you guys think it will take care of the tubing needs for modification?
Pypes Exhaust Tubing Mandrel Bends PVM59S - SummitRacing.com


I have read the header/manifold thread, as well as billboost37's install write-up, as well as vailskier3's install write-up
Since I am irritating the guys who have been around for a long time anyway, I thought I'd ask some more newbs questions...

I am planning on using the race pipe that goes along with it and delete the cat; move the O2 bung into new pipe where u-bend would have been and keeping the EGR. Anyone have tips for the EGR?


Let me have it guys.
 


There wasn't any additional piping used to delete the ubend. Intrigue used the piping that was cut and hacked it up and welded it back together as you see in his thread.
 
Look up Intrigue98's thread about it. YOu'll see the pipe on the jig. Meanwhile....

You are welcome.

IMG_20121217_231327.jpg


Catback flange end: between blocks 3 3/4"
IMG_20121217_231334.jpg


Left height 3/4", length 12 3/8", right height 5"
IMG_20121217_231359.jpg


Space between blocks 6 1/2", left height 7", length 7", right height 2 1/2"
IMG_20121217_231405.jpg


Length between blocks 13" Manifold end
IMG_20121217_231413.jpg


Easy
 
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Did mine after I ground through the ubend from bottoming out to much. Super low sucks with that ubend
 
z3r0 said:
Did mine after I ground through the ubend from bottoming out to much. Super low sucks with that ubend
Click to expand...

Not apples to apples, but during college I had an '82 Ninety-Eight Olds; the exhaust fell off so I fixed it by putting a muffler my buddy had laying around that he decided not to put on his truck. It came out underneath the rear door. While driving home one weekend during a snow storm, it had drifted across the road; one of those deep hard drifts ripped my muffler off. Dark and driving 70 on back roads, it was never to be seen again.

But it's additional motivation for doing it right the first time.
 


I'm still waiting on Fed-ex to bring me the headers... tracking says they are in the truck - out for delivery today.
 
Related question for you guys who know how to weld. My uncle told me he'd weld the headers back up for me (much better than that hack job I'd do) but I'd have to buy the stainless wire. There was also discussion of uncertainty about whether or not we'd need different gas to weld stainless. Do we need 100% argon gas to weld stainless steel?
 


I'm not interested in paying an exhaust shop anything. My family is a bunch of farmers and they work on their own machinery all the time; and can weld without any problem, they just never deal with welding stainless steel. I just want to know if there are any specific info about welding (the gas) other than the wire that we need in order to weld stainless.
 


Yes. Maybe. According to google you should use what's called "tri-mix". I've never used any welders with gas, so I don't know.

I do know however, from experience, that you can weld stainless-to-stainless and stainless-to-mild exhausts together with regular flux core wire with no gas and it will hold until the welds rust out 3 years later.

Also I am considering buying some V-Clamp flanges and just welding those to my cuts instead.
 
industrialfish said:
Yes. Maybe. According to google you should use what's called "tri-mix". I've never used any welders with gas, so I don't know.

I do know however, from experience, that you can weld stainless-to-stainless and stainless-to-mild exhausts together with regular flux core wire with no gas and it will hold until the welds rust out 3 years later.

Also I am considering buying some V-Clamp flanges and just welding those to my cuts instead.
Click to expand...

Thanks fish. I'll have to look into tri-gas; hoping it's not to expensive or it may just make sense/cents to pay an exhaust shop after all; not what I wanted to do.

On another completely unrelated note, what kind of gap are you guys running on your AL 104s?
Search function doesn't like words with 3 characters or less - "gap"; I know I've read a couple different numbers from folks, can't recall them though.
I've got pulley in hand and figure while I am tearing things apart I'll change the plugs and t-stat.
 
REDCOMPG said:
There wasn't any additional piping used to delete the ubend. Intrigue used the piping that was cut and hacked it up and welded it back together as you see in his thread.
Click to expand...
After having started hacking into my new SD headers... I disagree. I bought a pacesetter weld-in flex to replace the one that came with it. After staring at Intrigue's pictures and trying to assemble the pieces on my jig, it is short a few inches of pipe. Staring and arguing with my uncle about how to make it work, we came to the conclusion that Intrigue used a slip-on flex which has roughly 2 inches of pipe on both sides and provides pipe to slip into the race-pipe/cat. This may have been obvious to some, but not to me. I will now be sending back my weld-in flex and buy a slip-on.

Just saying so that if somebody else reads this they can learn from my mistake.
 
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