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Dumbass Brake question.....

Iron Indian

Iron Indian

New member
As some of you may remember i've been having a problem with a intermediate squeak noise on the rear of my car for sometime now. It happens every now and then while rolling, NOT when applying the brakes. If I touch the brake, the noise disappears. I've replaced the rotors and pads, disabled the parking brake, and checked the wheel bearings... all good. Now here is my question...

I was reading a manual last night on doing the rear brakes and i read a part that said on the back of the brake pads you should apply some antisqueel compound on them. I didn't do this, could this be my problem? I've done several brake jobs on this car and never had an issue until now. I'm very skeptical that this could be infact my issue. I need conformation before I tear it apart again for the 10th time. Especially after talking to a few others and they don't lube the backs of the pads either w/o issues. I of course lube the guide pins very well, I know how they work. Help?
 


Did you check the other suspension parts??? Also the little wear finger on the pads may be bent too close to the rotor, check that out
 
I used that anti squeek stuff when i did my rear brakes, they dont squeek at all. Im not sure if it will definitly fix your problem though.
 
Okay, Im going to attack this from probably a overly analytical and logical point, but here goes.

When you say brake 'squeal' Im thinking like something constantly rubbing and making a noise, like the noise from a pulley with a bad bearing or belt slip on the old V belts. Furthermore, you stated that you touch your brakes the noise stops.

Now, I couple that with the pads themselves are in a fixed position. The inboard pad is fixed to the caliper piston and the outboard pad, while it has some lateral movement, is still pretty much fixed. Additionally, the 'squealing' noise you mention sounds, once it starts, constant until you touch the brakes. There's no way that the outside of the pads, the metal backing of the pads is causing a squeal like that.

I can only, at the moment think of a few things that would result in a squeal like you mention from the brakes:

1. The inboard pad retaining prongs (the prongs that go inside the caliper piston) are collapsed some or not fitting entirely snug resulting in the pad being allowed to 'tip' some and make contact with the rotor. When you press the brake it pushes it back into the piston until some vibration or something causes it to tip back in.

2. The outboard pad guide clips are worn and allowing a similar action as the inboard pad.

3. You got a bad combination of pads and rotors. Semi-metallic pads have been known to do this. Carbon metallic pads address this issue somewhat.

So, yes its a long post, but Im pretty sure that there is nothing that you can put on the back side of your pads that will cure 'squealing'. Now, if they were rattling, thats different, but squealing, no.
 
I am pretty sure that this is a returning thread.
and I think I suggested the anti-squeal once before, but if your going to go back into your brakes at least get some new hardware to go back in and for gods sake oreileys and autozone sell the anti-squeel in little packets for a buck. get two.
you say you been into them multipull times, take evey precaution to fix your problem this time. I really hate to see you have this much trouble with a relitave easy issue.

the anti-squeal when applied to the back of the pads acts like a sound deading mat that you use in your doors, ffloor, trunk, etc. it cuts the vibration out/to a min,
but dont take my word for it, try it.
 
SyntheticShield said:
1. The inboard pad retaining prongs (the prongs that go inside the caliper piston)
Click to expand...

I didn't even know GPs still had those. I thought they died with the early 90s. :eek:

SyntheticShield said:
2. The outboard pad guide clips are worn and allowing a similar action as the inboard pad.
Click to expand...

This was my guess when reading it. Anti-rattle clips touching the rotor. They should be replaced on every pad change since they do wear out and cause issues like this.
 


I already tried a new hardware kit with no luck (new clips, bushing, boots, etc). Today I tore it down and tried a couple of things and applied grease on the back sides of the pads. I'll report back on my findings, I don't want to jinx myself just yet. My goal was to kill the squeek and have a working parking brake again...

Let me tell ya, that parking brake is a *****, even with the "proper" tools. I've said this and I'll say it again, I absolutely hate suspension or brake work...
 
Well appearantly I didn't fix the problem. Something has gotta be ****ed, i'm now wondering if its a caliper now, see my other thread. I can't understand how a simple brake job can lead to this nightmare. I consider myself very mechanical, hell i've done many brake jobs on this car and my other and I still haven't had this many problems. I'm just speachless right now.

Now the drivers side rear wheel is tight to turn although it drives fine. It never smoked or anything on my 20 miles drive today. I felt all my wheels , my fronts were warm and my drivers side rear wheel was noticeable hotter, but no smoke or burning smell. My passenger side rear wheel however wasn't hot at all.... very strange IMO. Something just ain't right.

I gotta figure this out. Wish there was someone local to help me out here. As usual i'm stuck figuring this **** out on my own.
 


You know for as much time and effort you have put into those brakes, I am guessing their still stock? You probably could have afforded yourself a nice pair of FBody brakes from Napa. Obviously there is something very small and hidden that is causing your issue my friend :) And I think you have beaten that horse enough now to realize that gremlin is not going to go quietly into that good night :(

I would suggest either going to a junk yard and finding a good set of stock brakes or just going to Napa and get the Fbody upgrades and be done with the whole mess.

Here is a link to their site for their FBody brakes.

NAPAONLINE®+
 
F-body brakes? No thanks.

Besides, we're talking about the rear brakes, not the front. No one puts F-bodys in the rear and if they do thats a real waste of $$$, the fronts do most of the work anyway. My fronts are fine anyway, rebuilt them last year. More than enough stopping power for me, infact my GP is the best braking car i've owned and I have stock brakes too. I don't see why anyone *****es about our braking abilities.

As for all the money i've spent, maybe about $15 max so far for a hardware kit and grease?? I'm not counting the new rotors and pads because thats maintence that needed to be done anyway.






GeddyLee said:
You know for as much time and effort you have put into those brakes, I am guessing their still stock? You probably could have afforded yourself a nice pair of FBody brakes from Napa. Obviously there is something very small and hidden that is causing your issue my friend :) And I think you have beaten that horse enough now to realize that gremlin is not going to go quietly into that good night :(

I would suggest either going to a junk yard and finding a good set of stock brakes or just going to Napa and get the Fbody upgrades and be done with the whole mess.

Here is a link to their site for their FBody brakes.

NAPAONLINE®+
Click to expand...
 
Iron Indian said:
I don't see why anyone *****es about our braking abilities.
Click to expand...

I've driven plenty of 97-03 GPs since owning my Imp. I fully understand why people swap to our 12" rotors and calipers. Compared to my car it felt like it wasn't going to stop without what I felt was more pressure than necessary. Slamming the brakes also gave lack luster performance.

I don't want to do the F-body swap because I don't feel it gives enough of an increase over what I currently have. The weight savings going to aluminum calipers is minimal. Not worth the trouble, if you ask me.
 


i had the exact same problem when i did my front brakes,an aggrevating squeal only when it was rolling.u said u changed all the hardware,so did i.after taking everything apart 2 times,i ended up putting the old guide clips for the pads back on and it solved my problem.
 
If it is dragging, than that would explain the heat, is the parking/emergency brake over adjusted??
Click to expand...


Good suggestion, but no. Reason being is because with the calipers and bracket uninstalled, wheel on and rotating theres no dragging going on. Good point though. I really wish it was that simple honestly. I'd rather admit doing a dumbass move instead of having this problem.


I've driven plenty of 97-03 GPs since owning my Imp. I fully understand why people swap to our 12" rotors and calipers. Compared to my car it felt like it wasn't going to stop without what I felt was more pressure than necessary. Slamming the brakes also gave lack luster performance.
Click to expand...


I've driven 3 or 4 Impalas, honestly I didn't notice a difference. At least not enough to make me go out and do the 12" swap anyway. I'll stick with my statement. Then again, coming from me is a bit biased. I mean, I grew up around and learn how to drive in cars without even disc brakes. I'm talking 4 wheel drums and even a few without power brakes period. Try stopping a 12 sec (approx) Nova w/ 4 wheel drum brakes, you'll be thankful for your 97-03 GP Brakes, trust me on that. For modern brakes, I think my 1993 GP SE had horrible brakes (4 wheel disc w/ ABS). Even after a brake job in tip top shape, worn out 97-03 GP brakes would out stop it by a mile any day of the week. If I ever had to stop quick in that car, its over. My GP has yet to make me feel that way. When I need to stop, i stop. I can't complain.


I don't want to do the F-body swap because I don't feel it gives enough of an increase over what I currently have. The weight savings going to aluminum calipers is minimal. Not worth the trouble, if you ask me.
Click to expand...


Exactly, not worth it in my opinion either. Thats why i'm on stockers.


had the exact same problem when i did my front brakes,an aggrevating squeal only when it was rolling.u said u changed all the hardware,so did i.after taking everything apart 2 times,i ended up putting the old guide clips for the pads back on and it solved my problem.
Click to expand...


Thank you! Finally someone out there had this issue. Begining to think I was the only guy out there with this issue. Tell me, either times you tore it down, did you use grease on the pads,, pins, or the clips? Very curious to your answer.
 
Iron Indian said:
Good suggestion, but no. Reason being is because with the calipers and bracket uninstalled, wheel on and rotating theres no dragging going on. Good point though. I really wish it was that simple honestly. I'd rather admit doing a dumbass move instead of having this problem.





I've driven 3 or 4 Impalas, honestly I didn't notice a difference. At least not enough to make me go out and do the 12" swap anyway. I'll stick with my statement. Then again, coming from me is a bit biased. I mean, I grew up around and learn how to drive in cars without even disc brakes. I'm talking 4 wheel drums and even a few without power brakes period. Try stopping a 12 sec (approx) Nova w/ 4 wheel drum brakes, you'll be thankful for your 97-03 GP Brakes, trust me on that. For modern brakes, I think my 1993 GP SE had horrible brakes (4 wheel disc w/ ABS). Even after a brake job in tip top shape, worn out 97-03 GP brakes would out stop it by a mile any day of the week. If I ever had to stop quick in that car, its over. My GP has yet to make me feel that way. When I need to stop, i stop. I can't complain.





Exactly, not worth it in my opinion either. Thats why i'm on stockers.





Thank you! Finally someone out there had this issue. Begining to think I was the only guy out there with this issue. Tell me, either times you tore it down, did you use grease on the pads,, pins, or the clips? Very curious to your answer.
Click to expand...

no , no and no ...stop squeak on pads have had no probs since i put old pad guides back on.
 
Sorry Shawn, I didnt read your first post close enough. I was fixated on it being a front brake issue, thus the F Body link. Sorry for the confusion :)
 
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