• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

I'm pretty confident my car is totalled...





NOT stock. Means someone has already done modifications. You may be buying someone's f***ups.


i think you got that backwards. you would mean post modded. buying a car that has mods and been beaten on by others.

pre modded to me is a stock un molested car and engine. never had mods done to it. old lady owned and operated lol
 
pre as in previously.
Previously Modded.
As in before you bought it, previous to you buying it, it was modded.
SO in conclusion:

Unmodded: No mods
Pre-modded: Modded when you got it
Post-Modded/Modded: You modified it.
 


i think we have a huge oxymoron on our hands here lol English is one messed up language for sure.

technically its only one word so its not an oxymoron either :P

its just an easily misinterpreted word.

It's the use of the prefix... pre. Sometimes it means before as in "not quite 'x' yet" and other times it means "previous"
the best examples in this thread are "pregame" and "prepackaged"
 
you can totally walk away with a NICE pre-modded GP for 5k

2-3k for stock

If you stop and take a look at the original post; Mad Monkey's intention's are clearly defined . Why would he say "you can totally walk away with a NICE stock GP for 5k.

Then say "2-3k for stock".
 


On a car worth maybe 3K. Yea your insurance company is going to total that *****. Unless you don't have uninsured motorist then your ****ed.

Hey folks, I have a quick update. It's definitely gone, signed the paperwork last week but I picked up a few tips I think everyone should consider should you too do something moronic like me and wreck your ride.

1. When they send you their first offer for value, make them read back every option twice asking every senseless question you can think of talking up maintenance, options... etc... this might be worth a few hundred dollars.

2. Ask them EXACTLY how they came to their estimate and make them explain it to a detail that makes the person you're working with start sounding just a bit nervous. My case was a bit special because I'm in Oregon near Portland. Large metropolitan area, high cost of living, near the ocean or major waterway. These factors including where you live and the economy you are in have a big difference. Demand they use only cars that meet this criteria when factoring their price.

Initial offer: $2,200 after steps 1 and 2. Second offer: $3800

3. This is when you go out and find your comparisons... don't live up to your estimates in step 1 and 2, just find any car you can anywhere in the country that is outrageously priced on the web. I.E. some guy unreasonably selling his GrandPrix for easily $6,000 + what you know it's worth. They'll use it to average into their estimates.

Third offer: $4,500... less my deductible left me with a little over $4000

4. If you take it... Take your license plates to keep something to remember the old girl by...

5. Current step... I'm going to hopefully track the VIN and see if it ends up in a field somewhere... luckily, all the agencies are so tied into the digital side that you'll be able to track it. Who knows... maybe I'll get lucky in 15 years, find it and fix it then... but then again maybe pigs will fly.

Thanks for all your help everyone! Hopefully I'll be rocking a GP soon... for now, I've retired to an old Ford Truck 1975 f100... putting my $$ aside for a rainy day. I hope to recover from my withdrawals by driving something completely opposite for a while.

- Long Live the Chief
 
Tragic loss man. Atleast you didn't have ridiculous amounts of cash into it like i do!

I don't even know what i would do if mine was totaled.
 
Hey folks, I have a quick update. It's definitely gone, signed the paperwork last week but I picked up a few tips I think everyone should consider should you too do something moronic like me and wreck your ride.

1. When they send you their first offer for value, make them read back every option twice asking every senseless question you can think of talking up maintenance, options... etc... this might be worth a few hundred dollars.

2. Ask them EXACTLY how they came to their estimate and make them explain it to a detail that makes the person you're working with start sounding just a bit nervous. My case was a bit special because I'm in Oregon near Portland. Large metropolitan area, high cost of living, near the ocean or major waterway. These factors including where you live and the economy you are in have a big difference. Demand they use only cars that meet this criteria when factoring their price.

Initial offer: $2,200 after steps 1 and 2. Second offer: $3800

3. This is when you go out and find your comparisons... don't live up to your estimates in step 1 and 2, just find any car you can anywhere in the country that is outrageously priced on the web. I.E. some guy unreasonably selling his GrandPrix for easily $6,000 + what you know it's worth. They'll use it to average into their estimates.

Third offer: $4,500... less my deductible left me with a little over $4000

4. If you take it... Take your license plates to keep something to remember the old girl by...

5. Current step... I'm going to hopefully track the VIN and see if it ends up in a field somewhere... luckily, all the agencies are so tied into the digital side that you'll be able to track it. Who knows... maybe I'll get lucky in 15 years, find it and fix it then... but then again maybe pigs will fly.

Thanks for all your help everyone! Hopefully I'll be rocking a GP soon... for now, I've retired to an old Ford Truck 1975 f100... putting my $$ aside for a rainy day. I hope to recover from my withdrawals by driving something completely opposite for a while.

- Long Live the Chief

Good work, guy.
 
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