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Mobile1 vs. Royal Purple.

Dohner

Dohner

New member
What do you guys prefer if either. I want to get away from the regular 5w30. I was thinking either Mobile1 or Royal purple for engine and also transmission.
 


Royal Purple makes fantastic products in my opinion. I ran the gear lube in my Grand Cherokee with fantastic results. The ONLY reason I won't use their engine oil and run Mobile instead is the color. It is purple obviously and appears dark to me even when it's new. I think it is just hard to visually inpect the condition of your oil. I change mine regularly, so it probably would never be a problem, but I do take a look at it quite often.
 


It's impossible to visually inspect your oil anyway. Oil becomes worn due to the shear of the molecules. The color only reflects that your oil is absorbing and cleaning out carbon, which is its job. You can't see the state of the molecules, so the color tells you nothing.

The purple die wears off in about the same time any oil will turn dark anyway.

The positive effects I've seen are longer warm ups (yes, t-stat is new) due to less friction. Also seen higher fuel economy on the highway.
 
Sabrewings said:
It's impossible to visually inspect your oil anyway. Oil becomes worn due to the shear of the molecules. The color only reflects that your oil is absorbing and cleaning out carbon, which is its job. You can't see the state of the molecules, so the color tells you nothing.
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Exactly right. The only way to truly tell the condition of your oil and oil filtration is with oil analysis. You can get a go/no go type reading using specialized test paper but for a true reading, oil analysis is the only way to go.
 
I know allot of people around me that swear by AMSOIL. Here is some data to back up the quality, the research was on the AMSOIL website so im sure any unfavorable results wouldn't be included so their is most likely a bias.

Comparative motor oil testing link.


Actually this looks like the same report done by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM).
 
As a dealer, one of my favorite things about Amsoil was their willingness to publish not only the test data but also the results in which they did not come out on top. I have always challenged anyone that asked to go to Amsoils website and look at their products and read the Typical Physical Properties, then go to a competitor such as Mobil 1, Castrol, Royal Purple, Red Line, Vavoline, etc and try and find the same exact information. You will find that it is nearly impossible and makes it very difficult to make an apples to apples comparison.

It is refreshing to see that they are and always have been that open about their test results. Ive been selling their products for over 12 years now and never have I been really disappointed in any of their products.
 
Royal Purple turns to regular amber after about 2 hours of driving.... If you looked at my oil now it looks like regular old oil.....

I have used both Mobile 1 and Royal Purple, and don't notice a difference, other than the RP has been cheaper lately.....

I don't see the point of running 5w-30 instead of 10w-30, cause at all temps above 45* they are very similar if not the same viscosity, and Id rather have the 10w(thicker) protection in the freezing temps than the 5w(thinner)(a good oil will leave a film, and 5 or 10 should arrive at the same time once the engine is turning)
 


The 5W and 10W is not a measure of thickness of the motor oil. A 5W-30 and 10W-30 are both 30 weight oils. What the 5W and 10W indicate is the so called 'winter number'. It is an indication of a motor oils resistance to flow in winter. A 5W motor oil will begin to flow sooner than a 10W motor oil.

Not sure if that is what you were trying to point out but there is no thickness or viscosity difference between a 5W-30 and 10W-30. They are both 30 weight oils. Where they differ is in their initial start up flow in cold temps and shear stability in the summer temps.
 
GM says put in 5w-30, so I use 5w-30. It performs the same at all other temps as 10w-30, but I'd rather get the oil sooner in the winter than trust a film.
 
SyntheticShield said:
The 5W and 10W is not a measure of thickness of the motor oil. A 5W-30 and 10W-30 are both 30 weight oils. What the 5W and 10W indicate is the so called 'winter number'. It is an indication of a motor oils resistance to flow in winter. A 5W motor oil will begin to flow sooner than a 10W motor oil.

Not sure if that is what you were trying to point out but there is no thickness or viscosity difference between a 5W-30 and 10W-30. They are both 30 weight oils. Where they differ is in their initial start up flow in cold temps and shear stability in the summer temps.
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Yeah, sorry, that is what I was trying to say, the viscosity of the oil is similar if not the same at all temps above 50 - 60* F...I mean yes 5w will flow better at 0* than 10w will, but at that temp the 10 will offer more protection(once it gets there) my GP says 10w-30 on the cap, and I have ran that since day one, not beating the crap out of your engine when it is just started/cold will help a lot more than the 5 viscosity difference that your engine runs in for a total of a few minutes a year(engines get warm quick:))


********Above is my opinion, oil is more of a personal preference thing anyway, I knew a guy that still ran straight 30 weight well into the 90's and never saw a problem from it. So make you own decision, above was just my .02:th_thumbsup-wink:
 
The newer GP's call for 5W-30. Not knowing this I brought only 10W-30 with me to Branson, but you can run the 10W-30 even if it calls for 5W-30. The 10W-30 is more shear stable and doesnt break down quite as easily, particularly in summer heat.

That all said, you are correct in that a lot of it is opinion. However, if you can compare apples to apples, then that can alleviate that problem at least on a statistical level. After which, you then have to find the product that works best with your particular engine. You could buy two GP's made on the same day successively on the line and drive them in identical ways and environment and one will work better on one than and the other may take something completely different to get wear numbers at the same level. Which is one of the reasons I am such a big fan of oil analysis. It allows you to tailor products and change intervals to your engine and driving style to achieve the lowest wear numbers and thus the longest life and lowest maintenance costs.

Probably three to four months before my GP puked its differential I had switch over to Amsoils 30W/10W-30 motor oil. It is a diesel engine oil that is formulated to work in gasoline engines as well. It is basically a straight 30 weight motor oil that meets/exceeds the requirements for the 10W-30 rating also. And since it has absolutely no viscosity improvers (as all other multi-viscosity oils do) it has virtually no viscosity break down or shear.

I will be really glad to get my GP back on the road to get some more data from that product as it was doing wonderfully before I had to deadline the GP.
 
Where can i buy amsoil at? Dose any auto part store carry that anymore. I havent heard of it in a while. How much can i get a case of it for from you SyntheticShield.
 


I have heard great things about both. Ive seen some engines last way longer then they should ever have using Mobile 1 Synthetic. That's what I use, so I vote Mobile 1.

Also, you could think about it this way too, when trying to compare 2 brands think about which one may be more readily available. Mobile 1 can always be found at your local Walmart <---and probably cheaper than anywhere else. I personally don't even know where to get Royal Purple. Either way, both are very good oils to use.
 
I just did a royal purple oil change with a full quart of lucas stabilizer and k&n oil filter for around 5o bucks...my car seems to like it better than a average synthetic ( i got my royal p at oreillys auto parts) expect to pay over 7 bucks a quart
 
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