• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

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    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Possible new Hyperco Lowering spring kit



Maybe it's just me, but the stiffer spring rates and universal all-around drop (visual ass drag) is something that would DEFINITELY turn me off from these springs, and others like me.

It's a SMALL majority of GP owners that want to make their FWD, family sedans into Auto-X champion cars. And a small percentage more want a car that can handle like a subaru or evo.

Most of the GP owners understand that their vehicles were never meant to take corners with the likes of smaller chassis AWD cars........ The MAIN reason for people to get lowering springs is ..........well, to have a lower, nicer stand to the car, with SOME additional handling ability.

That being said, I have a very good feeling you'll have a lot of un-happy customers with these stiff springs..........it will do the job that you intend it to, but people will not be happy with ride quality.
 
Then again, there are some of us who have been waiting for something like this to come to market. You might not sell a million, but I know that I would be all over a set that slightly lower the car and inrease the spring rate. I do auto-x and I don't mind a rough ride at all.

Someone brought up valving for the struts. Lets talk more about this. What are our options?
 
outonthetiles said:
Then again, there are some of us who have been waiting for something like this to come to market. You might not sell a million, but I know that I would be all over a set that slightly lower the car and inrease the spring rate. I do auto-x and I don't mind a rough ride at all.

Someone brought up valving for the struts. Lets talk more about this. What are our options?
Click to expand...

So you do auto-x, but don't understand valving a strut?

Valving a strut correctly involves going into the internals of the strut, and changing the amount of shims and such that control movement of the fluid from one chamber to the next. It directly controls how fast the strut rebounds/compresses.

I love the fact that Hyperco is looking to produce these..........but with the spring rates I've read (nearly 3-4x that of the ones available currently).......many people don't know what they are getting into.
 
Yep, I do autocross, and I do understand the purpose for revalving struts. Do I have to be a pro strut valver to participate in auto-x? I just didn't know how its done, where you can get it done, and what struts to use for it.
 


As of right now, I am running a 250# front spring, and a 165# rear. The ride quality is still pretty good...if anything the rear is still a little soft imho. The front is a little lower than the rear(it would be level if I had Bilsteins on the front also.) It is about a 1.2" front and .75" rear drop with the Bilsteins on the rear and cheapo gabriels on the front. I have intentions of getting bilsteins for the front, but haven't gotten around to it yet. I am using off the shelf parts for now.....with every intention of making the proper kit, once I can get some R&D done. As far as the struts and valving goes, this kit is designed for performance, hence stock replacement struts would not be the best. It would be best to use (at the minimum) a Bilstein HD or sport, maybe KYB AGX's, or Koni's(if you could find them). Ride quality will not suffer as much as you would think, if you had stiffer struts that were designed to habdle the stiffer rates. The stock rates for these cars are in the low 100's for rate, but are meant for ride quality, which is why if you corner our cars hard, they hit the bump rubbers real quick and you lose the effectiveness of having your suspension travel. In racing, this would mean a huge loss of grip. I do however, believe the initial thoughts on rate may have been a little high. I am thinking now of maybe doing 250-300# front, and maybe 200-225# rear.
 
Well, so far I haven't gotten any competitors springs to test yet. I really want to do this to show everyone the difference between them, and to ensure we ae not going to just make a kit just like someone else's. I am currently running some very close to stock dimension(but higher rate) off the shelf parts, to judge the overall feel of what they are going to do, but they are not "exact" fit and I know that not everyone would want to use them. I have put about 250 miles on what I am running now, with no excess noise or problems. Once the springs are installed, they fit well. If someone is interested, I can tell you what front springs will give you a 250# rate, with about a 1.2" drop for the front. The only thing is that they are a "constant" diameter all the way up and down, and both ends are gound flat(like a coilover). They do not rub or bow, and once installed fit just fine in the stock struts.
 


I'd like to know more about what you've been running. I'm looking for something lower in the front than Eibach to match the sagging rear.
 
So far guys, I haven't really gotten enough interest to make a kit that is affordable. I would have to have AT LEAST 20 kits out the door upon completion in order to get justify making 50 kits, which is what it would take to make them reasonably priced. I am currently personally running a setup that i devised on my own from parts that we currently make, and it works, just not quite perfect enough for my tastes to market as a kit. I have a 250# front spring, that is about a 1.2" drop, and a 165# rear spring that would be about a 1" drop, if i didn't have bilstein hd's on the rear. The rear spring is actually a front lowering spring for a mustang, and the dimensions are perfect for our struts. The front spring is a 5"x 11" coil that works fairly well, the ends are the correct size for our struts, but the body of the spring is slightly smaller than stock. And Sandman, the Camaro spring is most likely a no-go on the front of our cars, because it just drops the front so much I had rubbing issues and was bottoming out the bumper cover just pulling out of my garage.
 
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Are you still looking for a competitors spring? I have a set of B&G springs I could send you (they are used). You pay for the shipping, I have no reason to want them back. Just an FYI, my coilover setup I decided to go with your springs 10" 375 for the front and 275 for the rear. Too bad I didn't read this one earlier or I would of bought my springs directly from you. Let me know on the B&G's...
 
BlownBigBlock said:
Are you still looking for a competitors spring? I have a set of B&G springs I could send you (they are used). You pay for the shipping, I have no reason to want them back. Just an FYI, my coilover setup I decided to go with your springs 10" 375 for the front and 275 for the rear. Too bad I didn't read this one earlier or I would of bought my springs directly from you. Let me know on the B&G's...
Click to expand...

sent you a pm
 
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