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Broken Trans Melting Engine?

NiceHotRod

NiceHotRod

New member
Hi everyone I'm new here. Glad to join, looking for some insight for the problem with the family car. It's an 02 Grand Prix GT with 130k miles, it's been the perfect car until now!After complaints of hesitation, poor acceleration, and hard shifts I test drove the car from a cold start and after only running 7 mins, coolant was 190* and I popped the hood to find the exhaust manifolds glowing cherry red! I shut off the car right away. I saw my AIR system regulator(?) was melted. SEE PIC ATTACHED. With my generic scan tool I got P0300 (random misfire), no other codes. Previously my family member who drives the car had been noticing the occasional "hesitation" which was thought to only be bad gas. The car has run great for 5 yrs now and I figured the trans would be first to go. Despite my recommendations to the family member who owns it, the trans fluid & filter has never been changed :mad:. During my test drive I noticed late shifts, hard shifts, and it felt like very bad slipping at low rpm in at least 2nd and 3rd gear. It never went into OD. Also toward the end of the drive I heard a loud rushing fluid sound, not a high pitched wine. Based on what I've read on this forum I think it's a bad front band, maybe the pressure switch manifold. At first I thought is was a clogged catalytic converter. Anyway what should I do now? I'd like to fix it so we can sell it or keep driving it. I think the car still has some life left in it.
 

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i would think clogged cat.

get the car in the air, after is cold, hit the cat with the palm of your hand, if you hear any thing rattling when you hit it, its the cat.

and that looks like your egr valve got cooked up. it takes exhaust from the exhaust header to the intake manifold.
 
The melted part looked like part of the AIR system, which pumps fresh air into the exhaust to help the cat. The pics shows it above the back valve cover. I'm pretty sure the EGR valve is on the driver side of the engine and connects to the manifold in a different spot. Thanks tho now I'll go bang on the cat and come back with an update.
 
I just banged on the cat, no obvious rattle. I could cut the cat off, check it, and weld it back on but i'd like to avoid that... the exhaust bolts are a little rusty.
 
if the cat is clogged minimal exhaust will exit. My brothers truck has a clogged cat, ran like **** and when reving the engine in park the exhaust did not come out like it should and smelled different and was hotter. I dont know how easy it is, but if you can weld Drill a hole right before the inlet of the cat stick a flash light and look at the honeycomb. The size of the hole depends how much you want to fill or if you have a piece of steel you can patch it over with. If its clogged and you want to gut it and want to play a game, cut a patch or panel out of the cat and start knocking the sweet honey out.
 


Thanks guys. I ran the car with the front wheels off the ground. It revved fine in park (so cat is probably OK?). It spun the tires in the air fine in R and D at idle, but as soon as I slowed the tires with my boot (engine under load like while driving) the engine bogged down and ran rough. I haven't had a chance to cut up the cat or drive the car yet. Also I don't see any codes for engine sensors or anything, just P0300 random misfire.
 
I say bad cat.........and you need a new EGR, its melted. I have one here, PM me if you want it.
 
Runs fine at idle because no load is less fuel. Do what nick said to do, pull the main 02 sensor. Will sound like crap but it should run better.
 
A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
  • Faulty spark plugs or wires
  • Faulty coil (pack)
  • Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
  • Faulty fuel injector(s)
  • Burned exhaust valve
  • Faulty catalytic converter(s)
  • Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
  • Faulty camshaft position sensor
  • Defective computer
That is why you have the code P0300
 


BillBoost37 said:
Jason..take another look. It's the Cali emission air injection actuator.
Click to expand...
Thanks man now i know what that part is called. It needs to visually be on the car in NY since it's factory emissions equipment... if it doesn't work and doesn't cause a Check Engine light than it should pass inspection just fine.
I've been away for work the last few days so I asked my local mechanic to diagnose the cat, and he thinks it's bad along with the O2 sensor. While this is much cheaper than a transmission, he did quote a very high repair cost. I'll let him know I can weld in a generic cat and replace both 02s myself for about $200.
 
Update
I cut off the cat, it was destroyed! Then i ran the car down the street with no exhaust, it seemed to run ok but still wasn't shifting right. Then I dropped the trans pan, added new fluid and filter and disconnected the battery overnight. Also I replaced the upstream 02 sensor. I ran the car again, I was so excited cause it started out running fine then later it slammed into 2nd gear and then seemed to slip. Do I have a bad front band? thanks
 


NiceHotRod said:
Thanks man now i know what that part is called. It needs to visually be on the car in NY since it's factory emissions equipment... if it doesn't work and doesn't cause a Check Engine light than it should pass inspection just fine.
I've been away for work the last few days so I asked my local mechanic to diagnose the cat, and he thinks it's bad along with the O2 sensor. While this is much cheaper than a transmission, he did quote a very high repair cost. I'll let him know I can weld in a generic cat and replace both 02s myself for about $200.
Click to expand...

I find it very odd that the secondary air injection system is melted and there is no DTC (P0410)
 
A forward band will cause you to have no gears if you shift into D. But slippage when 2 or 1 are selected. Check TPS etc and ensure that those aren't messing with the trans.
 
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